Removing seats , T-50 bolts seized, and other input requested

CreepinDeth

TJ Addict
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Guys, I just picked up a 2003 TJ Wrangler with alot of miles on it, but good condition from a Merc I know overseas.
It's a Florida Jeep, and clean for the most part.

I'm ripping it apart and interior , stereo, to suspension, redoing it all.
I'm stuck on getting these T-50 bolts out of the seats, and I've used Penetrating oil galore and they're not comin out.

Any recommendations ??
I've already busted one T-50 bit so I'm debating what to do next.

Also, since I have your attention, after I primer, paint / seal the interior floor pans, + new carpet
I'm going all out with a new stereo system with SKAR Audio Pro series 6.5" mid's and the separate tweeters.
I'm curious if anyone has just bypassed the little speakers in the dash , and instead went with just the roll bar
pod speakers and pods in the rear seat ???

Reason I ask, I can't get 6.5" in the front, and even if I do a 5.25" coaxial up front, these pro series will overpower them from the rear.
I'm still debating sub options, but mine did have the factory 6.75" sub in the center console, and I've seen the 8" shallow sub upgrade option on Youtube.
It's either that, or a Rockville powered 8" sub under the driver / passenger seat I'm still looking into for now.

Also, how can I tell if I have factory suspension or not ?? The steering is HORRIBLY bad, but I got it home from Orlando FL to Chicagoland without issue.
NO death wobble but the steering and suspension is rough, so I need to start figuring out what to do there.


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Heat is your friend. (if heat hot enough, then it will come out)

"I'm going all out with a new stereo system with SKAR Audio Pro series 6.5" mid's and the separate tweeters.
I'm curious if anyone has just bypassed the little speakers in the dash , and instead went with just the roll bar
pod speakers and pods in the rear seat ???"


Lipstick on a pig.
 
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Thanks, will buy that kit and also do the Kroil and heat and see what I can come up with. We use Kroil at work alot

Alright well then lets start with suspension and steering upgrade recommendations. A place is Prescott AZ my Jeep trail loving Brother in Law recommends this kit for me

i know jack all about kits and pros and cons

https://metalcloak.com/tj-long-travel-short-arm-suspension-system-lift-kit.html
 
Thanks, will buy that kit and also do the Kroil and heat and see what I can come up with. We use Kroil at work alot

Alright well then lets start with suspension and steering upgrade recommendations. A place is Prescott AZ my Jeep trail loving Brother in Law recommends this kit for me

i know jack all about kits and pros and cons

[URL]https://metalcloak.com/tj-long-travel-short-arm-suspension-system-lift-kit.html[/URL]

I wasn’t a fan of the single adjustable control arms included with that kit. Definitely a hassle setting your pinion angle with those control arms. I removed a set of lightly used metal cloak arms and replaced with Savvy double adjustable arms. Definitely worth the price differential for double adjustable control arms.
 
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/lowest-lift-to-run-35s.32923/

Good reading before deciding on lift. (do some search and read, lots on here to help you decide what best for you and how you drive your Jeep)

I have a Jeep newb question
Why is the dana spicer 706944X ball joint so strongly recommended when it costs more then the HD ones here on Rock Auto??

I use Rock Auto for just about everything so Im trying to wrap my head around it
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2003,wrangler,4.0l+l6,1416451,suspension,ball+joint,10070
I desperately need to redo WHOLE suspension as I had that death wobble once or twice at high speed from Florida back to Chicago, but accelerated out of it. Jeep has 250K on it and needs a revamp down below
 
I desperately need to redo WHOLE suspension as I had that death wobble once or twice at high speed from Florida back to Chicago, but accelerated out of it. Jeep has 250K on it and needs a revamp down below

You cannot accelerate out of true death wobble. Death wobble you have to almost stop to get it to come back under control...

For the shimmy you speak of, you need to check your tire balance (90% if speed related wobble... should hit 2-3 times between stopped and 80mph), then search for on here, and perform the dry steering test... before you start throwing parts at it
 
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Good to know
Never used ATF as a break free option
Its kind of a hassle to use because it needs to be in an old school metal oiler (acetone eats most plastic) and it separates so has to be shaken before use. On the upside most of the tests I find show it works much better than Kroll or any other common product.
 
Thanks
Yeah Im not worried about the mileage.
Its a 5 speed manual also

Im a mod junkie and swapped an Ls1 into my 2nd gen Camaro, as well as a 6.0L Lsx into my 1970 Olds 442 clone. Just put a new 5.3L into a 2002 Tahoe for my teenage son too last year.

Plenty of experience swappin engines for new, so that was a lready a forethought before buying this.

Got it so cheap, couldnt pass it up. Ive heard the V8 swaps are a real PITA so I will just put a new 4.0L in it. My youngest is 9 now, and the goal is to make it his. So I got a few years to get it ready
 
You cannot accelerate out of true death wobble. Death wobble you have to almost stop to get it to come back under control...

For the shimmy you speak of, you need to check your tire balance (90% if speed related wobble... should hit 2-3 times between stopped and 80mph), then search for on here, and perform the dry steering test... before you start throwing parts at it

I assumed since a friend had them on his 2015 recently that they were good, but ur right. I should check the balancing.

As for the wobble, i mispoke
Forgot I let off the accelerator first to stabilize
 
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Fwiw I got all the seats out, let it penetrate a few nights. Now Im gonna HVLP spray the Rustoleum on the floorpan after we cleaned it and put the carpet in and run the speaker wires and RCAs

Thanks for the input so far
Anyone think the carpet underlayment would help or forgoe it?? I could use sound deadener
 
View attachment 431948Guys, I just picked up a 2003 TJ Wrangler with alot of miles on it, but good condition from a Merc I know overseas.
It's a Florida Jeep, and clean for the most part.

I'm ripping it apart and interior , stereo, to suspension, redoing it all.
I'm stuck on getting these T-50 bolts out of the seats, and I've used Penetrating oil galore and they're not comin out.

Any recommendations ??
I've already busted one T-50 bit so I'm debating what to do next.

Also, since I have your attention, after I primer, paint / seal the interior floor pans, + new carpet
I'm going all out with a new stereo system with SKAR Audio Pro series 6.5" mid's and the separate tweeters.
I'm curious if anyone has just bypassed the little speakers in the dash , and instead went with just the roll bar
pod speakers and pods in the rear seat ???

Reason I ask, I can't get 6.5" in the front, and even if I do a 5.25" coaxial up front, these pro series will overpower them from the rear.
I'm still debating sub options, but mine did have the factory 6.75" sub in the center console, and I've seen the 8" shallow sub upgrade option on Youtube.
It's either that, or a Rockville powered 8" sub under the driver / passenger seat I'm still looking into for now.

Also, how can I tell if I have factory suspension or not ?? The steering is HORRIBLY bad, but I got it home from Orlando FL to Chicagoland without issue.
NO death wobble but the steering and suspension is rough, so I need to start figuring out what to do there.


View attachment 431949

I used PB Blaster to get the hex bolts freed and out and then rotated the entire seat base. That loosened something up. More PB Blaster. Big breaker bar with a Torx impact bit and they finally spun.