Rubicon Factory Locker Leaking

[taylormade73]

I went wheeling a few weeks ago and realized neither front nor rear locker would engage. I just had 4wp regear a few weeks prior so I thought mybe they just didn't set the sensors correctly when putting my diffs back together. So I took ir back to them to have them check. Well, they told me that I had a loose vacuum line on the front which they fixed but said they could hear the rear bladder leaking air as the pump tried to actuate it. So now my front works but not my rear. I've read somewhere on here, @Jerry Bransford said it, that TJ/LJ Rubicon locker parts are discontinued, but someone he knows has parts. Is it possible to source the bladder and repair it? If so, does it make sense to do so or to just go with an ARB or E locker? Can the stock Rubicon pump run the ARB locker or do I need a separate air compressor?

 

[Alex01]

Is the crown unit no good? Seems a lot cheaper than an ARB

https://www.jegs.com/i/Crown+Automo...Tdf37PRuSwK8Jh5a6rlyox8SmVoOH0IoaAgMmEALw_wcB

 

[taylormade73]

Is the crown unit no good? Seems a lot cheaper than an ARB

https://www.jegs.com/i/Crown+Automo...Tdf37PRuSwK8Jh5a6rlyox8SmVoOH0IoaAgMmEALw_wcB

I'm not sure.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

The Crown replacement that comes from Jegs will never come. Been there done that. Go to you local Jeep dealer and have them run a locator for the actuator, there are quite a few left in dealer stock across the nation.

 

[Daryl]

I would remove the cover and see if it’s just a hose that came disconnected.

 

[taylormade73]

I would remove the cover and see if it’s just a hose that came disconnected.

I can do that, but 4wp jist had both diffs open this weekend. They said the front issue was juat a hose but the rear bladdee they could hear leaking air.

 

[Daryl]

I can do that, but 4wp jist had both diffs open this weekend. They said the front issue was juat a hose but the rear bladdee they could hear leaking air.

Trust but verify. Remove the cover and test it with your own eyes and ears.

 

[Long Rider]

NOOOOOOOoooooo! Don't tell me they are not making Rubicon locker parts anymore! What are is Mopar using for the later model Rubicons?

 

[rasband]

NOOOOOOOoooooo! Don't tell me they are not making Rubicon locker parts anymore! What are is Mopar using for the later model Rubicons?

I think all the new ones are E-lockers

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I've ordered a couple of the air bladder/actuators from www.rockauto.com. This is the p/n info from my last order, it was $79. I would investigate further before just deciding to replace it, especially since replacing it is not an easy job. You have to remove the carrier and then remove a carrier bearing to get to the actuator.

Confirming the leak's location is pretty easy if you just think about it. The air pump will run continually when there's an air leak after you engage the locker. Pinch off the air line just outside of the axle housing to confirm the pump stops and stays off, that will confirm the system's integrity up to the point it connects to the housing. If that shuts the pump off it's time to remove the cover and check the short air line inside by disconnecting then pinching it off where it connects to the locker. If the pump shuts off at that point it's probably the air bladder that is leaking.

DANA 84307 {#52104611AA} Spicer

This is what it looks like. The old one is installed on the left, I'm holding the replacement in my hand.

This is what it looks like inside, you can see the short piece of air line inside that connects to the locker.

 

[rasband]

Did both of these work prior to them doing the work? If so, I’d push back on them for the rear no longer working after the fact.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

Did both of these work prior to them doing the work? If so, I’d push back on them for the rear no longer working after the fact.

They probably thought it was high pressure like the ARB and put an air hose to it to check engagement and blew the bladder...if that’s really what it is. Also do yourself a favor and make sure the hose end in the diff isn’t cracked, and I removed the metal clip and used a zip tie. Don’t trust a metal clip possibly falling into the gears.

 

[taylormade73]

Did both of these work prior to them doing the work? If so, I’d push back on them for the rear no longer working after the fact.

Yes, but their paperwork they have you sign for getting work done has exclusions in it that protects them from issues like this. Additionally, we didn't do a locker check as part of the walk around pre-work; so, it would be hard to argue whether they worked or not pre-gearing. I have pushed back (they had it this past weekend under warranty to inspect, which is where I learned about the leaks, with them fixing the front no charge), but they aren't accepting responsibility for either. They just fixed the front out of courtesy while they were in there. I contacted Quadratec today, who has the actuator listed on their site, to see if they can get it. They called Crown who said it is available, just not stocked. So, it's $110 for the part and $250-300 for labor, which is less than a lawyer or my time to pursue against 4wp. I am just going to replace it once I confirm it is the leak source.

 

[taylormade73]

I've ordered a couple of the air bladder/actuators from www.rockauto.com. This is the p/n info from my last order, it was $79. I would investigate further before just deciding to replace it, especially since replacing it is not an easy job. You have to remove the carrier and then remove a carrier bearing to get to the actuator.

Confirming the leak's location is pretty easy if you just think about it. The air pump will run continually when there's an air leak after you engage the locker. Pinch off the air line just outside of the axle housing to confirm the pump stops and stays off, that will confirm the system's integrity up to the point it connects to the housing. If that shuts the pump off it's time to remove the cover and check the short air line inside by disconnecting then pinching it off where it connects to the locker. If the pump shuts off at that point it's probably the air bladder that is leaking.

DANA 84307 {#52104611AA} Spicer

This is what it looks like. The old one is installed on the left, I'm holding the replacement in my hand.

View attachment 123740

This is what it looks like inside, you can see the short piece of air line inside that connects to the locker.

View attachment 123741

Thanks, Jerry. I will use your methods to confirm the leak source. I knew you had repaired your lockers in the past. I can get the part and labor for about $360-410. Is it worth it on these lockers? Or just replace with something else? I do most of my own work, but stay away from the gear work. So, if they break again, I'd be looking at another $400+-.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks, Jerry. I will use your methods to confirm the leak source. I knew you had repaired your lockers in the past. I can get the part and labor for about $360-410. Is it worth it on these lockers? Or just replace with something else? I do most of my own work, but stay away from the gear work. So, if they break again, I'd be looking at another $400+-.

No problems with mine other than the one leaky air bladder in the actuator. That was probably 8-9 years ago and that's it, despite some very hard use at times. I'd repair it and expect no more issues barring gross driver abuse.