Rubicon locker question

Koda

New Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2022
Messages
13
Location
Northern California
My 03 Rubicon has the factory 44 up front with the air locker, the PO swapped out the rear with a dana 60 with an elocker.
The elocker has it own switch which I can engage in 4L with no issue. When I hit the factory axle lock switch to engage the front, I can hear the compressor kick on then turn off but the front lock light continues to blink. I've tried driving and doing slow turns to see if I can get the light to go solid but it just keeps blinking.

Hitting the axle lock switch again I can hear the rear compressor kick on and not stop (continues to run) and the light doesn't stop blinking. Crawling under the Jeep and looking at the factory lines, it seems that the PO cut the air and sensor line just wrapped them in electrical tape.

Since the front pump kicks on and stops I'm guessing the line is holding pressure but for some reason the locker isn't engaging.

Since I'm not using the factory rear locker can I just disconnect the wiring to the pump and sensor? Assuming that the front and rear work independently and that not having the rear hooked up doesn't impact if the front would engage?
 
The factory setup turns on the rear locker on the first push, then turns on the front locker with the second push.
 
Verify that the front locker works by lifting the front tires off the ground.

Use a jack to lift both front tires off the ground. Spin a tire by hand. Either one tire will turn, or both tires will turn in opposite directions.

Turn the key to the on/run position. Do not start the engine. Now you can listen to the locker click and pump rumble in a quiet environment.

With the transfer case in 4low, activate the front locker.

The pump should run for a few seconds and shut off.

Spin a front tire by hand. Within a few degrees of rotation, the locker will lock with a light click and both tires will turn the same direction.
 
My 03 Rubicon has the factory 44 up front with the air locker, the PO swapped out the rear with a dana 60 with an elocker.
The elocker has it own switch which I can engage in 4L with no issue. When I hit the factory axle lock switch to engage the front, I can hear the compressor kick on then turn off but the front lock light continues to blink. I've tried driving and doing slow turns to see if I can get the light to go solid but it just keeps blinking.

Hitting the axle lock switch again I can hear the rear compressor kick on and not stop (continues to run) and the light doesn't stop blinking. Crawling under the Jeep and looking at the factory lines, it seems that the PO cut the air and sensor line just wrapped them in electrical tape.

Since the front pump kicks on and stops I'm guessing the line is holding pressure but for some reason the locker isn't engaging.

Since I'm not using the factory rear locker can I just disconnect the wiring to the pump and sensor? Assuming that the front and rear work independently and that not having the rear hooked up doesn't impact if the front would engage?

Don't trust the light.
First, verify whether it's locking or not.
 
I agree to check it, make sure it’s working.

If you’ve already left the stock Rubicon overall scenario, I’d personally go to a 2nd switch and have both of your lockers independent switch.
 
I put the front end on jack stands, put it in 4L and turned the key to the on position.
Pressed axle lock switch, I can hear the compressor kick on for a second or two then shut off.
The front lock light comes on and blinks.
I can only spin the tire a fraction either way before it stops, the other tire spins the opposite direction.
The front lock light continues to blink and doesn't go solid.
Sounds like the locker isn't engaging and next step would be to pull the diff cover?
 
You can't test it that way. The rear wheels on the ground prevent the front wheels from turning in 4WD. You'll have to put all 4 wheels in the air or drop the front driveshaft so that the front wheels can spin and allow the locker teeth to align.
 
All 4 wheels off the ground the locker does engage, I can spin one front wheel and and the other moves in the same direction.
The front lock light continues to blink so I'm guessing I've got an electrical issue. Likely something from the PO's wiring to have the front locker engage first vs the rear.
 
Here's how it works:

One push, the cluster logic requests the rear axle to lock. Rear light blinks until the state of the rear axle switch equals the request. Your rear axle light will blink forever. Your front axle light will also blink as it has not been requested to lock, but it is locked.

Second push of the button requests the front axle lock. So, your front light should go solid on the second push as the request will match the front axle switch, if it is working.

Third push requests the front axle unlock. So, that's not going to happen on yours, front axle blinks forever.

Next press will request front axle lock, light should go solid, and so on.

Anytime the axle state doesn't match the logics request = blinking light.
 
Here's how it works:

One push, the cluster logic requests the rear axle to lock. Rear light blinks until the state of the rear axle switch equals the request. Your rear axle light will blink forever. Your front axle light will also blink as it has not been requested to lock, but it is locked.

Second push of the button requests the front axle lock. So, your front light should go solid on the second push as the request will match the front axle switch, if it is working.

Third push requests the front axle unlock. So, that's not going to happen on yours, front axle blinks forever.

Next press will request front axle lock, light should go solid, and so on.

Anytime the axle state doesn't match the logics request = blinking light.

This, exactly. You’re TJ is rewired and doesn’t match what the computer understands. So based on that, your “Locked” lights are useless now, as set up.

Learn how to lock them, and go, or rewire it with a stand alone switch. That way you can lock in 4H if you want to as well