Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Sab-a-dab-a-doo! The back-country LJ build has officially started

I started the day continuing with the brackets I've been making. I welded the brackets that needed welding, and then bead blasted, primed, and painted them. I struggled with plumbing the manifold for the York OBA system (lots of leaks!) I lost my digital protractor somewhere in my shop (ugh, I hate when that happens) and had my wife pick one up at Home Depot while she was in town because I needed it, and two hours of scouring didn't turn it up. So most of the day was spent struggling, and it was frustrating!

About mid-afternoon, I decided to start my mods on Fluxor's hinge/spare tire carrier kit. My Savvy taillights interfered with the hinge pivot screws, so I had ordered some Keenserts to install in the bottom of the hinge to eliminate the nut on the pivot screws. I started by drilling out the bottom holes:
View attachment 649834

That was done in 1/32" steps up to 33/64", the tap size for the thicker 3/8"-16 Keensert. After getting the holes to 33/64", I tapped them for 9/16"-12:
View attachment 649835

To install the Keenserts, I clamped a piece of aluminum to the inside of the hinge to act as a positive stop for the Keensert and applied some red Permatex thread-locker:
View attachment 649836

Next, I screwed it in by hand:
View attachment 649837

Finally, I used the special tool to drive the stakes with a hammer:
View attachment 649838

The finished product:View attachment 649839
Then, I mounted the hinge bases, and installed the Savvy taillight. Continuing the theme of "I should have just stayed in bed today," I discovered that it wasn't just the nut on the pivot screw that interfered with the Savvy taillight. The housing itself has an interference problem:
View attachment 649840

In that picture, only one of the housing screws is holding the taillight. The other two won't fit. I'll have to remove some material on the hinge base in order to fix this issue. Stay tuned!

As someone with fluxor hinges sitting in a box and Blaine’s lights currently mounted, I’m following.
 
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I like the trick of using the drill press to align the tap. Is that tap handle made specially to do that?
Years ago, I got sick of tapping a hole and having the thread axis end up slightly misaligned with the hole axis, so I sought a solution. I found that solution from LFA USA - the guided tap wrench. It has a guide that chucks up in the drill, and the top of the handle rides in that guide:

1760805499641.png


After drilling the hole, I run the quill down as far as it will go and then adjust the table height down with the part riding on the drill bit because the tap handle is so long that you usually can't drill and tap with the table at one position.

I have the guided tap wrench in three sizes (they make four), and this was the first time I've used the largest one, which fits taps from 1/2" to 3/4". Unfortunately, I never considered that the guide diameter exceeds 1/2" on this one, and I don't have a chuck bigger than 1/2" for my drill press. Fortunately, I was using a taper tap, so I had a nice lead-in taper that made keeping the tap aligned easy. I used the drill chuck as an indicator to keep the tap perpendicular to the hinge as best as I could. It seemed to work just fine, as I remounted the hinges and everything lined up perfectly.

The LFA part numbers for their guided tap wrenches are:

0-1/4" Taps - LFA #51014
1/4"-1/2" Taps - LFA #51412
1/2"-3/4" Taps - LFA #51234

I got them from McMaster-Carr, and the links above go there.
 
As someone with fluxor hinges sitting in a box and Blaine’s lights currently mounted, I’m following.

Blaine measured his lights and some Savvys. His are .050" shorter in height. I don't think that's going to be enough, but he pointed out that he put a mounting hole at each corner of the base for the guys that drilled their tubs for the big round taillights. Using those, I can mount the lights a bit lower. I could do the same with these Savvys, but I think I'm going to order Blaine's taillights and switch over to them. I worry about getting replacement LED units from Savvy over time...
 
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Years ago, I got sick of tapping a hole and having the thread axis end up slightly misaligned with the hole axis, so I sought a solution. I found that solution from LFA USA - the guided tap wrench. It has a guide that chucks up in the drill, and the top of the handle rides in that guide:

View attachment 649962

After drilling the hole, I run the quill down as far as it will go and then adjust the table height down with the part riding on the drill bit because the tap handle is so long that you usually can't drill and tap with the table at one position.

I have the guided tap wrench in three sizes (they make four), and this was the first time I've used the largest one, which fits taps from 1/2" to 3/4". Unfortunately, I never considered that the guide diameter exceeds 1/2" on this one, and I don't have a chuck bigger than 1/2" for my drill press. Fortunately, I was using a taper tap, so I had a nice lead-in taper that made keeping the tap aligned easy. I used the drill chuck as an indicator to keep the tap perpendicular to the hinge as best as I could. It seemed to work just fine, as I remounted the hinges and everything lined up perfectly.

The LFA part numbers for their guided tap wrenches are:

0-1/4" Taps - LFA #51014
1/4"-1/2" Taps - LFA #51412
1/2"-3/4" Taps - LFA #51234

I got them from McMaster-Carr, and the links above go there.

Thanks for that, Scott. I can think of many, many times that would have come in handy.

Keep an eye out for me over on the New Tool Day thread...

:cool:
 
Thanks for that, Scott. I can think of many, many times that would have come in handy.

Keep an eye out for me over on the New Tool Day thread...

:cool:
They are a great addition to your machinist's tool box, Jeff. And I'm just getting you back for making me spend money on that awesome Vevor drill bit sharpener! :)
 
Back to the build. What started my change-of-plans with regards to the rear of the LJ was wanting to install a valance panel below the tailgate to strengthen the tub laterally. Fluxor's implementation of Mr. Blaine's design seemed the natural choice. In my quest for a light weight build, I wondered if I could switch to Fluxor's complete rear package to end up weight-neutral adding a valance panel.

My MORryde hinge/panel kit and HyLine spare carrier setup weighs 45 lb. Klay and I figured his stuff would save me 3-5 lb, which was not bad, given that the valance panel kit weighs 7.24 lb. However, it would take some modification to be weight-neutral adding the valance panel. After I received the stuff, I realized I could modify the spare tire carrier and save even more weight. How much? Well, this morning, I did some figurin', and I think I can save about 6 pounds off the carrier, so I'll be about 3 lb lighter with the valance panel added. Not bad! Here's how I plan to get 6 lb lighter than Klay's design of the spare carrier:

1. Cut the mid-section out of the top bracket that mounts the main bracket to the top hinge, and add a couple gussets to make up for the smaller brackets - cuts .80 lb:
IMG_8210.JPG

1760811525993.png


2. Cut the hanger bracket off the main bracket - cuts 1.55 lb:
IMG_8209.JPG


3. Get rid of the tire mounting bracket - cuts 4.23 lb and another .43 lb for bolts and nuts no longer needed:
IMG_8203.JPG


4. Cut a bunch of lightening holes in the main bracket - cuts - 1.96 lb:
1760812096603.png


5. Replace the lug stud bolts with press-in wheel studs - cuts .12 lb:
1760811953843.png


6. Add a piece of rectangular tubing, a new tire mounting plate (with plenty of holes for light-weight!), and a couple more of the same gussets as #1 above - adds 2.90 lb back:
IMG_8211.JPG


All that ends up saving over 6 lb! Now, I just have to do all the work...

Stay tuned!
 
Blaine measured his lights and some Savvys. His are .050" shorter in height. I don't think that's going to be enough, but he pointed out that he put a mounting hole at each corner of the base for the guys that drilled their tubs for the big round taillights. Using those, I can mount the lights a bit lower. I could do the same with these Savvys, but I think I'm going to order Blaine's taillights and switch over to them. I worry about getting replacement LED units from Savvy over time...
Correction - Blaine's are 0.130" shorter and may solve my problem. I'm ordering a set.
 
The mess in the shop is completely out of control, so I spent most of the afternoon working on organization. However, I did manage to transfer the lightening holes from a paper template to the tire carrier base by first taping the template onto the base:
IMG_8213.JPG


And then center-punching the corners, which I marked up with Sharpie so I don't do something stupid (no guarantees, though - my stupidity knows no bounds):
IMG_8215.JPG


I'm still waiting on the carbide annular cutter to cut these to arrive. Stay tuned!
 
I realized today that when I install Fluxor's tailgate valance panel, the Savvy rear license plate relocation bracket will no longer work because it shares real estate with where the valance panel connects to the tub. To fix that, I need to space the Savvy bracket out from the corner armor surface 5/16" to be in the same plane as the face of the valance panel. Some quick work in Fusion, and I've ordered this from SendCutSend to address this new issue:
1761007204182.png


And here's a very rough mockup of how it fits on the LJ:
1761007292792.png


Stay tuned!
 
Watching as I have been eyeing a set of Blaine’s taillights and also currently installs all the same flux parts.

Thanks for sharing!
If you have Mr. Blaine's rear license plate relocator, you'll need some way to space it off the corner armor, but it'll need to be a little different than mine because his plate is a different shape than Savvy's plate at the top. I also don't know if the hole center distances for the mounting bolts are the same.
 
If you have Mr. Blaine's rear license plate relocator, you'll need some way to space it off the corner armor, but it'll need to be a little different than mine because his plate is a different shape than Savvy's plate at the top. I also don't know if the hole center distances for the mounting bolts are the same.

I am most likely going with no spare and putting the plate on the rear gate. I think Klay’s set seems to be easier to switch between spare and no spare vs the moryde it is replacing.
 
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I struggled with plumbing the manifold for the York OBA system (lots of leaks!) I lost my digital protractor somewhere in my shop (ugh, I hate when that happens) and had my wife pick one up at Home Depot while she was in town because I needed it, and two hours of scouring didn't turn it up. So most of the day was spent struggling, and it was frustrating!
It's been a few good days in the shop. My wife informed me that she'd found the missing digital protractor a few days ago via text from the house to the shop:
IMG_8219.jpg


No jokes about her finding my tool! :LOL: She said that it was on when she pulled it out of the wash machine. I took it apart, dried everything out, put it back together, and it's working perfectly - go figure!

And this morning, the good fortune continued. I got all the leaks in the York OBA system addressed. Stay tuned!
 
This is the best time to be on the island. The water isn't too cold yet & it's not too hot out.
Definitely! I would never come down here in summer. My native-Wisconsin blood runs pretty cool, and summer is a season I despise, even after several decades in central TX.
 
If you have Mr. Blaine's rear license plate relocator, you'll need some way to space it off the corner armor, but it'll need to be a little different than mine because his plate is a different shape than Savvy's plate at the top. I also don't know if the hole center distances for the mounting bolts are the same.

Appreciated the breakdown! I too have the BMB - so will be looking forward to seeing how I can leverage your lessons learned and design.

It's been a few good days in the shop. My wife informed me that she'd found the missing digital protractor a few days ago via text from the house to the shop:
View attachment 650544

No jokes about her finding my tool! :LOL: She said that it was on when she pulled it out of the wash machine. I took it apart, dried everything out, put it back together, and it's working perfectly - go figure!

And this morning, the good fortune continued. I got all the leaks in the York OBA system addressed. Stay tuned!

My wife pulled out our only set of keys to the mower & shed from the last set of laundry; plus a DOA chapstick - "You really don't check your pockets"

And that was a load of laundry I put in the basket and in the machine..... :oops:

Please stand by. We are experiencing non-technical difficulties…View attachment 650814

Enjoy!! Envious for sure!
 
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@sab , I so thoroughly love watching you work! Selfishly, this build has shaped up to be one that I hope never ends as I am learning a lot and enjoying your craftsmanship...
Thank you, mvigo! It sure feels like it'll never end... 🤷‍♂️
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator