@Mike_H is correct. They either don't want to sell, think we're desperate, or think we're just plain stupid! That said their prices are absurd and it's disappointing when good products go off the rails.
I think they are also learning to math still.
Not seeing a 30% ($450ish) discount.
Smoke and mirror approach? Maybe assuming the freight is in the discount.
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It makes me curious how they're splitting the material/engineering/labor/tooling costs. For example, I'm currently building my own flat skid for my early TJ since savvy doesn't make it and I don't like UCFs system. I purchased a 22" x 44" x 5/16" 7075-T651 aluminum plate for $250 + ~$50 shipping. Before you ask, it was actually cheaper than the 6061-T651 alternative. So I'm not sure what they're paying for the aluminum, especially if they get bulk discounts and it's thinner than my plate.
You know what....I was thinking about just building my own "Tummy tuck" too for my Lj since i know i could do it....just a matter of if i want to do it....BUT my Lj is a daily so i'd want savvy's tummy tuck since its already made and i could install it over the weekend, But at the same time i could install my BL and build a crossmember enough to where it'll properly hold the Trans/T.case so i can go back to daily driving and later i could blueprint a skid plate get the material ordered which is about 380 for a plate of 6061 T6 but i never would've though of trying to see if 7075 was cheaper! Not all too familiar with that materials characteristics as far as bending goes so i got some research to do ! But idk....im honestly half and half
Id like to build my own "tummy tuck" setup but im honestly being lazy as of now to just buy the tummy tuck from savvy and install it. But if i finish a job i got on friday and get paid then the temptation to just buy the savvy setup is there so idk.....
If you don't want to spend the time and effort in custom fab then I'd still consider savvy. I'm able to go completely flat because of the 231 T-case, your LJ will not without either some fun stuff to the channel or dangerously tall BL. I wasn't able to find any measurements of early TJ bolt holes and whatnot since they're different as well, so I've had to do it all myself. Only reason I started was because I already had 4" square tubing and sheet steel from other jobs and from a shared machine shop. Since that flooded recently I've been doing everything by drill, angle grinder, and a $100 flux core welder from like 20 years ago and it's definitely not been thrilling. I'm just now wrapping up some stuff on it and would like to improve on it later.
Gotcha,Yeah man im either making my own or going with savvy I don't like any other skid on the market since I don't like the idea of a skidplate being the crossmember for my tranny&Tcase! My lj isn't a rubi so it has a NP231,What are things i should look out for on a LJ? And what do you mean by "The chanel" ? And the body lift I'm gonna run is the one I got from BMB so it's a 1.25" lift
Yeah if I fab my own skid plate&crossmember I'd be in the same boat of a drill and a grinder....and a small vice,my Hobo freight welder ! I've made stuff happen from just that,Just takes more time with a side of patience,More stuff is to come since I now got a Swag offroad tube bender![]()
Ah yeah, forgot that's a rubi T-case not a late TJ case..duh me.
For tucking I don't believe there's any specifics for an LJ vs TJ. The only issue I've ever heard of has been with the 241 case since it's so large when you try and raise it it'll hit the bottom of the body in the transmission tunnel/channel. You should clear it with the 1.25" BL with maybe some slight massaging with a hammer depending on how you build the crossmember. Make sure too look up the correct bolt thread and size and also location on the frame for the late TJ/LJ because they changed. Adjust pinion angles after and run a cable shifter for the T-case instead of the z-bar. I can't think of anything else off the top of my head right now.
Edit- About 20 seconds of searching I found my answerCongrats on the purchase. You'll be very happy with the way this was designed and the install is fairly straight forward. Highly recommend the post in the "How To" section, as well as a couple YT videos out there. Denting the tub is key. I had two other spots that were metal on metal, one was the exhaust crossover was touching the upper control arm mount. Easy fix, I just lowered the exhaust hanger that comes with the kit. The second was one of the phillips head screws was too long and bottomed out on my TC (I have a Rubi). But once those were fixed, there is just a slight bit more vibe at idle. Well worth the compromise.
Have fun with the install!
$500 for aluminum high lines? Doesn’t seem bad at all.
I don’t remember if they were selling these before? Does anyone have them.
$1000 for bumpers? What’s going on here.
$500 for aluminum high lines? Doesn’t seem bad at all.
I don’t remember if they were selling these before? Does anyone have them.
...
How much for the inner fenders? These are so new, Savvy forgot about them.
Maybe it’s a, figure it out or use another company.
That sounds reasonable if you have never installed highlines. 90% of the actual work revolves around the inner fenders (and the battery tray). And now we get the opportunity to figure something out to attach a dozen loose engine bay components to.![]()
I believe its meth laced with fentanyl.$1,569+tax tho? They gotta be smoking crack.
