Seized driveshaft
- Thread starter Morks
- Start date
My speedo is off, but ball park numbers are 40-50 km/h, and in the higher end around highway speed 90km/h and up
Easiest is probably taking it to a shop and have them check, it is roughly a 30 minute procedure.
Another way is to put rear axle on jacks, put it into gear and let it spin. Put a stick/pen or your hand on spinning drive shaft and you will be able to feel the wobble. This however does not account for axle warp up or down due to torque.
If by "angle mint" you mean axle pinion 0* - 2* below angle of ds with SYE, then like BlackJack said something else is going on.
Try to rotate drive shaft between yokes of TC and axle, sometimes a yoke can be offset and that will cause disbalance. In total there are 4 combinations of how tc yoke, ds, and axle yoke can be put together. Also make sure ujoint is fully seated into a yoke .
Chasing vibrations in a Jeep can lead on a quest to insanity.
I have a natural gift at ordering defective parts, I also have a bad habit of replacing bunch of things all at once. New front DS, new rotors, new wheel hubs, new tires: DS was not properly balanced. Wheel hub had a wobble. One of the rotors was out of balance (probably a result of wobbly hub), and 2 out of 5 tires got replaced. Keep in mind those are new parts, so obviously initially i thought that issue was else where.
What that experience has taught me is that if issue is in the front axle, it will be felt in the steering wheel.
I’ll add a data point here. I have Adam’s shafts front & rear and I had the damndest time removing them last week. And an even harder time reinstalling the back, needing to raise the t-case to a point where there was enough gap to fit it. I haven’t tried the front yet, I don’t have the stomach for the fight. Not sure how I missed this thread for this long.
When I put them in new they wanted to expand on their own iirc, but I was able to compress by hand. Definitely no longer the case.
It sound like Adam’s warranty or at least their customer service sucks…my rear shaft hit 12 months old in April, but my front shaft was new in October. I didn’t even have time to improperly maintain either of them. How old are the shafts y’all are fighting with?
When I put them in new they wanted to expand on their own iirc, but I was able to compress by hand. Definitely no longer the case.
It sound like Adam’s warranty or at least their customer service sucks…my rear shaft hit 12 months old in April, but my front shaft was new in October. I didn’t even have time to improperly maintain either of them. How old are the shafts y’all are fighting with?
Haha yeah, I did axle swap, gears, locker, tires, arms, and engine... so it is slowly coming together. I will try the pen trick on the weekend to at least see if there is something obvious and rotate the shaft on the yokes, and make sure my thrust is dead on. Also, yes that is what I meant by the angle was mint lol.
Mumblewood
TJ Enthusiast
How bad does the cv joint have to be off (aka bad thrust) to create a driveline vibe? I will be playing with All my arms this weekend trying to get rid of the vibe. However, put a Dana 44 in the rear and welded brackets (So it is obviously not symmetrical). I will try to get thrust bang on, will rotate the shaft on the yokes, and try the pen trick. After that, all out of ideas, and 100% rear as when I pull that shaft any and all vibes are gone. Thanks for any help!
I would think the thrust angle would have to be more or less the same as the pinion angle. The yoke rotates in a perfect circle (hopefully!!) so from it's point of view a yaw angle is no different from a pitch angle; it's all just an angular offset. But the more one is off the more the other has to be on. There is a max amount of angle in all directions that would make sweep out too much of an ellipse and cause vibration.
Disclaimer: Dynamics & Classical Mechanics was nearly 30 years ago, and we didn't exactly study driveshaft equations of motion.
Mobusaki
TJ Enthusiast
I had to look up what thrust angle is. My rear is an 8.8 which has an offset pinion and welded brackets. Both cause issues. The brackets are not perfect so my arms are at different lengths from each other (left vs right) in the rear. That helped a ton when I was figuring out driveline vibes, so I think you're on the right track. Do you have an adjustable track bar in the rear?
Do not have an adjustable track bar, but think it is needed at this point. Yes, I do have adjustable arms upper and lower in the rear.
Back on the seized driveshaft track... I took both my Adams to a local driveshaft shop. He had to take soak them in some sort of magic penetrating oil, then used his press to take them apart, then cleaned them and greased them, should be good as new. Gonna cost me $90, although I could tell on the phone that he was trying to figure out how much he could get away with charging me considering he did very little work.
They close before I can get there today, so I'll try to ask him some further questions when I pick them up. When I get the skinny from him, Adams is going to hear about it from me. Rear shaft was bought in April of '21 and the front shaft was new in October of '21. I find it hard to believe that I've owned them long enough to have poorly maintained them.
They close before I can get there today, so I'll try to ask him some further questions when I pick them up. When I get the skinny from him, Adams is going to hear about it from me. Rear shaft was bought in April of '21 and the front shaft was new in October of '21. I find it hard to believe that I've owned them long enough to have poorly maintained them.
Mobusaki
TJ Enthusiast
Compress them and try to pull them apart again before you pay. Mine and some others here were able to get them apart only to have them seize again upon reassembly. I feel like if they are truly seized where they require a press to pull them apart, then there is something wrong and a simple cleaning isn't going to fix it.