I drive a 2006 LJ Rubicon - the previous owner kludged together a suspension system that has to be replaced. Based on what I've read on this forum it seems to have resulted in a 3" lift. There is also a 1" body lift installed. When I got the unit, I installed Nth Degree rear spring relocators (see pic) to fix the dragging butt look, and installed Nth Degree rear stinger/slider, removing the upper control arms, but have not done anything else to the suspension.
Since I won't be reusing the shocks or springs or bumpstops or spring spacers, here's my plan on how to get a suspension that will perform much better with all components designed to work with each other.
First, a bit about the vehicle weight issues and my use. 2006 LJ Rubicon, 35 x 12.5 tires (going to a tire of approx. the same diameter but only 11" wide), extra wide flares ( see pic), Procomp bumper front and rear, hydraulic winch with synthetic rope up front, spare tire stored inside, 5 gal nato gas can on tailgate along with a medium size ammo can with basic recovery gear. Rear seat removed. For trail riding I pack 2 front runner wolf pack boxes (tools and more recovery gear including a heavy hand winch that I have no idea why I bring - never been used), and perhaps another 75 lbs of gear all situated inside with the heaviest things furthest forward. I tow a small Tentrax trailer to the trail so that's another 100 lbs on the hitch. I would like to sit level when loaded up and trailer connected, and realize that may mean I may ride a bit high in the rear when not loaded.
I don't go where only the buggies tread, but will sign up for things such as Pritchett Canyon. Besides southern TX, I enjoy Moab, Colorado, South Dakota Black Hills, Rubicon trail. I guess it's mountain trails and accompanying rocks. Not into stuff like the Hammers (altho I'm sure I would have a blast!). I am looking to have a nice ride on pavement, and good performance offroad without sacrificing everything about the on road ride. I think a dual rate or progressive spring is going to get me the closest to what I want (softer rate for when unloaded but maybe ride high in the back, get into the higher rate when loaded and with trailer, but leveled off with the front height)
I've read the 'how to ' guide here on how to size bumpstops, but still have a few questions about sizing other components. Here's my plan for determining suspension components. let me know if I'm doing something incorrect...…
Front first - jackstands under the frame, remove tires and various steering parts to get springs out, remove bumpstops, 2" spring spacer, and shocks. Lift axle until bumpstop cup touches spring pad on axle, measure between shock mount points, subtract 1/4" and mark that as minimum compressed length for shock. Set tire on, check for interferences (I'm expecting there will be), lower axle until no tire interferences (including at full lock), measure for proper bumpstop length, add that length to minimum compressed shock length as well. I guess desired ride height determines spring length (unloaded minus compression figured with rate and estimated load). I actually tend to prefer a lower center of gravity so may sacrifice some uptravel with that
Now, how do I determine the max length of the shock? With the swaybar links off, what will I use to limit the droop? Or do I pick the longest shock I can find and let them serve as droop limiters?
Next, the rear axle. Same concept as the front to find the initial minimum compressed shock length then tire interference and 'new' compressed shock length and bumpstop length. I imagine droop will be limited by swaybar and length of links? So let the axle hang down and measure between shock mounting surfaces plus 1/2" for max shock length? Again, ride height calculated to match front with gear loaded plus trailer on. Also I will see about the need for longer control arms to center the wheel in the arch (Is this an issue with both front and rear, or just rear)
Does this sound like it might give me something to aim for?
Thanks in advance
Since I won't be reusing the shocks or springs or bumpstops or spring spacers, here's my plan on how to get a suspension that will perform much better with all components designed to work with each other.
First, a bit about the vehicle weight issues and my use. 2006 LJ Rubicon, 35 x 12.5 tires (going to a tire of approx. the same diameter but only 11" wide), extra wide flares ( see pic), Procomp bumper front and rear, hydraulic winch with synthetic rope up front, spare tire stored inside, 5 gal nato gas can on tailgate along with a medium size ammo can with basic recovery gear. Rear seat removed. For trail riding I pack 2 front runner wolf pack boxes (tools and more recovery gear including a heavy hand winch that I have no idea why I bring - never been used), and perhaps another 75 lbs of gear all situated inside with the heaviest things furthest forward. I tow a small Tentrax trailer to the trail so that's another 100 lbs on the hitch. I would like to sit level when loaded up and trailer connected, and realize that may mean I may ride a bit high in the rear when not loaded.
I don't go where only the buggies tread, but will sign up for things such as Pritchett Canyon. Besides southern TX, I enjoy Moab, Colorado, South Dakota Black Hills, Rubicon trail. I guess it's mountain trails and accompanying rocks. Not into stuff like the Hammers (altho I'm sure I would have a blast!). I am looking to have a nice ride on pavement, and good performance offroad without sacrificing everything about the on road ride. I think a dual rate or progressive spring is going to get me the closest to what I want (softer rate for when unloaded but maybe ride high in the back, get into the higher rate when loaded and with trailer, but leveled off with the front height)
I've read the 'how to ' guide here on how to size bumpstops, but still have a few questions about sizing other components. Here's my plan for determining suspension components. let me know if I'm doing something incorrect...…
Front first - jackstands under the frame, remove tires and various steering parts to get springs out, remove bumpstops, 2" spring spacer, and shocks. Lift axle until bumpstop cup touches spring pad on axle, measure between shock mount points, subtract 1/4" and mark that as minimum compressed length for shock. Set tire on, check for interferences (I'm expecting there will be), lower axle until no tire interferences (including at full lock), measure for proper bumpstop length, add that length to minimum compressed shock length as well. I guess desired ride height determines spring length (unloaded minus compression figured with rate and estimated load). I actually tend to prefer a lower center of gravity so may sacrifice some uptravel with that
Now, how do I determine the max length of the shock? With the swaybar links off, what will I use to limit the droop? Or do I pick the longest shock I can find and let them serve as droop limiters?
Next, the rear axle. Same concept as the front to find the initial minimum compressed shock length then tire interference and 'new' compressed shock length and bumpstop length. I imagine droop will be limited by swaybar and length of links? So let the axle hang down and measure between shock mounting surfaces plus 1/2" for max shock length? Again, ride height calculated to match front with gear loaded plus trailer on. Also I will see about the need for longer control arms to center the wheel in the arch (Is this an issue with both front and rear, or just rear)
Does this sound like it might give me something to aim for?
Thanks in advance
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