Shock Question

egclassic

egclassic

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 16, 2016
Messages
558
Location
Cincinnati, OH, United States
So I have decided to replace my shocks and went with the Rancho RS5000X.
In anticipation of getting my new shocks (tomorrow), I went ahead and removed the Rough Country shocks that the PO had installed just over 3 years ago.
Here's the question, are all shocks supposed to "rebound" when you fully compress them? Seems every shock I have ever dealt with have. All 4 of these rough country shocks I took off stay down when I compress them.
I am aware that Rough Country does not have the best reputation, but the ride really wasn't horrible with these shocks. You think all 4 of these could be bad? Doesn't really matter since I have new ones on the way, but I just thought it was odd that they never sprung back out.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Hydraulic shocks like RC's basic shocks are don't expand out on their own, only gas-charged shocks like your future RS5000X expand out on their own.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks. Kind of thinking maybe it was because it was a different type of shock.
Hoping I notice a difference in the ride once I replace them. If my wife doesn't notice a difference, she'll say I wasted more money. Of course then I just bring up how she spends $60 getting her nails done every 2-3 weeks and the shocks will last years!
 
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Here's an easier way to install gas charged shocks. They ship locked down. Install the bottom of the shock (or top) before unlocking the strut. Then unlock the strut and and guide it as it expands to its other mounting point. For the front shock install the lower steel bushing cup and lower bushing before unlocking the strut and guiding it into its mount.

The reason being that gas charged shocks extend with force and can be very hard to recompress enough to get into their mounts once unlocked.
 
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Has anyone used this adapter/pin eliminator when replacing the rear shocks?
Fonz

Rough Country - 1089 - Rear Shock Upper Bar Pin Eliminator Kit for Jeep
 
Bar pin eliminators aren't necessary and they just take space away from the shock space making the shock effectively longer, making it more apt to bottom out when the suspension is fully compressed. In my opinion, BPEs are a cure for a non-existent problem. In 22 years of TJ'ing, I've seen just one broken OE bar pin which was the result of the owner having purchased too long of shock.
 
Fonz54 said:
Has anyone used this adapter/pin eliminator when replacing the rear shocks?
Fonz

Rough Country - 1089 - Rear Shock Upper Bar Pin Eliminator Kit for Jeep
Click to expand...
I installed the Terraflex rear upper shock bar eliminator due to one of my parts breaking. Chris recommended these and they have worked out well for me.

F7CC2A8D-116C-4031-AA56-7D8FC7244063.png
 
Got the Ranchos installed today and took her for a test drive.
I think there is a noticable difference, but not night and day. I know these new shocks will need some time to get broken in and the ride will probably improve even more.
I also installed new 10.9 bolts on all 4 shocks and anti siezed them. I am just glad nothing broke in the process like so many here have experienced.
 
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I would think that if the bar pin is breaking, then the bump stops are not correctly extended. A BPE will only make that problem worse.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Bar pin eliminators aren't necessary and they just take space away from the shock space making the shock effectively longer, making it more apt to bottom out when the suspension is fully compressed. In my opinion, BPEs are a cure for a non-existent problem. In 22 years of TJ'ing, I've seen just one broken OE bar pin which was the result of the owner having purchased too long of shock.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jerry - I assume that if you are able to get the bolts out, replace the shocks and you apply anti-seize tif you o the bolts when you reinstall then all should be good in the shock universe. However, bust a bolt trying to remove the shocks is there a better solution than what is presently being offered aftermarket?

Thanks
Fonz
 
Fonz54 said:
Thanks Jerry - I assume that if you are able to get the bolts out, replace the shocks and you apply anti-seize tif you o the bolts when you reinstall then all should be good in the shock universe. However, bust a bolt trying to remove the shocks is there a better solution than what is presently being offered aftermarket?
Click to expand...
BPEs aren't what are used when a bolt breaks at the top of the rear shocks, that's a whole different problem that is much more difficult to solve.
 
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Thanks for the clarification. Have you had to remedy the broken bolt situation and if you did can you share how you did it?
 
Fonz54 said:
Thanks for the clarification. Have you had to remedy the broken bolt situation and if you did can you share how you did it?
Click to expand...
I have been fortunate on not having had to deal with that situation with my shocks. Likely because I don't live in the salt belt where corroded/seized nuts & bolts are more common. I'd probably slit my throat if I snapped one of those particular bolts off while trying to remove it. :eek::D
 
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Thanks Jerry - I am North of you, Monterey County near the old Fort Ord. Jeep came from Colorado originally. Not allot of rust on her. I am going to start spraying with Kroil and hopefully things will get nice an loose.

Fonz
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Hydraulic shocks like RC's basic shocks are don't expand out on their own, only gas-charged shocks like your future RS5000X expand out on their own.
Click to expand...
I too have RC shocks and springs and notice that when I hit a large dip, my jeep will swing low, sometimes rubbing the fender flares. Will the RS5000X lessen that drop? I'm also on 2.5 RC springs. I was thinking Savvy 3" progressives might help too.
 
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