Shock Question

I too have RC shocks and springs and notice that when I hit a large dip, my jeep will swing low, sometimes rubbing the fender flares. Will the RS5000X lessen that drop? I'm also on 2.5 RC springs. I was thinking Savvy 3" progressives might help too.
Hard to say if it's caused by a weak spring or shock but I'd guess a bad shock. Remove a shock or two nearest to where you notice the problem the most and push-pull on them to see if the shocks significantly resist movement equally in both directions. A good shock will, a bad/blown shock will be relatively easy to push in and pull apart. No need to jack the Jeep up or remove tires to remove/replace shocks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikeO
I think everyone who used BPE's did so because they didn't want to deal with a siezed / broken bolt in the future.
Using a BPE doesn't have a thing to do with helping or eliminating that possibility. Bolts can seize just as easily whether they pass through a BPE or a bar pin.
 
Got the Ranchos installed today and took her for a test drive.
I think there is a noticable difference, but not night and day. I know these new shocks will need some time to get broken in and the ride will probably improve even more.
I also installed new 10.9 bolts on all 4 shocks and anti siezed them. I am just glad nothing broke in the process like so many here have experienced.
Good analysis. I agree, I went from Bilstein 5100's to Rancho 5000X about three weeks ago. Not a night and day difference. Better, but not extremely better. And mine never got any better than the first day even after 700 miles. I think if I drop 1psi I will see a difference, because I ran my 33's at 24psi and it was noticeably better, then up to 26 and it was still better than the Bilstein's, as I said before, but not extremely better. I'm thinking of going to 25 and watching the tread wear...I'm glad nothing broke on you in the process. Nice TJ, I love yellow. I think it's one of the best colors for a TJ. Only a few vehicles can pull off yellow, and that puts TJ's in a category with Corvette's, Lamborghini's, etc...
 
Using a BPE doesn't have a thing to do with helping or eliminating that possibility. Bolts can seize just as easily whether they pass through a BPE or a bar pin.
Most of the issue is breaking the bolts that hold the bar pin to the frame.
With the BPE, you won't have to mess with those bolts anymore. I could cut a bolt that passes through a BPE easier than the ones in the frame / cross member.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: SJBack03 and Bert
Most of the issue is breaking the bolts that hold the bar pin to the frame.
With the BPE, you won't have to mess with those bolts anymore.

Our criticism of BPEs is that they can often reduce suspension travel. This is almost guaranteed in the rear and very likely up front. If your bump stops are extended for something other than the collapsed shock, then a BPE won't be a problem. In fact, in that situation they will increase down travel on a shock that is arguably too short.
 
I seriously doubt most BPEs are installed to get around the potential corrosion/seizing issue since that is not the purpose of them and what they are sold for.
Well, I'm not going to sit here and argue, but a quick Google search of "why do people use BPE's" came back with page after page of people saying they use them for the reason I stated. Whether that's their intended use or not that is what people are using them for.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SJBack03 and Bert
Here is why I got bpe’s. At the time it seemed like the quickest and easiest solution. I currently don’t do much off roading so it works for my road driving until I figure out what I’m doing with my jeep.
7AA31E72-B494-465F-BDD2-EF36C155A1C9.webp
 
  • Like
Reactions: SJBack03
I'm one of the few it seems that have installed them in the rear for a functional reason.... When I cycled my rear suspension, I had contact with other components before the shocks bottomed out, so installing the BPE gave me another inch of down travel without compromising my up travel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bert and jjvw