I have the same... They work... But just barely. I've been looking for a better set. Will probably pull the trigger on the Knipex
Snap ring plier suggestions for Johnny Joints
- Thread starter chimmike
- Start date
I bought the tool and don't use much of anything without reading the instructions, so yes.
Interesting. I probably haven’t used them often enough to run into issues.
The 2" joints are easy. The 2.5" joints that used on the lowers can be tough. Puts a lot of flex in the tool.
I know, you are just the only one I know knows.
You can always tell when I’ve learned something new.......Andy’s been on you tube again......
The Knipex do not flex at all on the 2.5 snap rings. Forgot to add that is the 90 degree versions where you really can't have them flex.
Been trying to educate myself.
Anyone ever make a tool with all thread? I was watching Mr. Currie use one and wondered if it was ever done.
You can easily make a tool with all thread or a bolt. You just need to be sure to clear the sleeve from the ball and brace against the JJ housing, then the other side pushes on the washer (leaving clearance for the snap ring to remove).
We were using all thread, sockets and washers long before Mr. Currie came out with the tool. You have to remember we've been running Johnny Joints since 2000.
MountaineerTom
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Awesome. I wish I had a a decent rule of thumb for knowing what size goes where and how to read the specs better- I don’t want to derail but since this thread has JJ users maybe its relevant and the thread topic was sorta covered well....
Maybe it is like building interior doors from scratch like I did all day yesterday- I don’t do it often enough that I have to get reoriented every time.
Also Max at RockJock got into explaining how torque rotation of the axle makes the front diff joint (I think) want to pull apart internally and why he likes the narrower joint better for that application. I think I’m making it harder than it has to be. And I didn’t know one was a one piece joint.
Forgive me guys if I’m out of line. Just fishing for knowledge.
I'm curious about the snap ring. I thought I knew the answer but my new Currie arms are installed like what I thought was correct, flat on the load side or flat side pushing out. As far as the snap ring which side is the flat part supposed to face? Do the newer joints have rings that are flat on both sides? I've only taken an older one apart and probably screwed it up. Is that even what we're taking about? I know it's not a huge deal but for u joints it would be great to know if I've been screwing that up too.
Which way is the correct way?
Post in thread 'Measure Once, Cut Twice: A Story of Excitement and Impatience' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...f-excitement-and-impatience.32913/post-658099
Sharp flat edges on washer and snap ring face out away from the race.
I was referring specifically to the Channellock 6" reversible snap ring pliers that were posted in the second post here. I would assume the Knipex don't flex at all. The Channellocks do...
I've used the Channellock version once to take apart a JJ. It was borderline useless. Slightly better than two pieces of spaghetti.
I broke the tip off one of them when I was on autopilot and forgot to compress the poly to unload the pressure on the ring.
