Soldering battery cable and why it is very bad

Typical. No one really agrees on which is best, solder or crimp. Well, that isn't quite true, those that know, understand why soldering is bad and crimping is good. Those that don't know, solder.
The comments were interesting and were predominantly to crimp. Even Matt said he’d start crimping but not for the right reasons.

I posted it up because he uses several types of crimpers.
 
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The comments were interesting and were predominantly to crimp. Even Matt said he’d start crimping but not for the right reasons.

I posted it up because he uses several types of crimpers.
He's beyond annoying. I've never made it more than a few minutes into any of his stuff before he says or does something so egregiously incorrect that I have to walk away.
 
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I do use some uninsulated ring terminals and heat shrink for odd sizes like 3/8" rings for 16-18 gauge wire commonly used on relays and power and grounds for the trigger side.

ok, so I was following you on the battery terminals, but are you saying soldering will cause problems even on the little stuff?

I picked up a box of these a couple months ago:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Basically you just slide it over one end, then twist the ends of the wires together and slide it back so the solder ring is over the bare copper, then hit it with a heat gun. The solder is a low enough melting point that it melts and wicks into the strands after the heat shrink has shrunk but before it starts to melt or char.

Since I wasn't sure about them I haven't used them on anything critical (just side marker light after my MCE fenders and my stereo adapter harness) up to this point, just to try them out. But if I'm gonna start having problems I'll go back to crimping and heat shrink.
 
ok, so I was following you on the battery terminals, but are you saying soldering will cause problems even on the little stuff?

I picked up a box of these a couple months ago:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Basically you just slide it over one end, then twist the ends of the wires together and slide it back so the solder ring is over the bare copper, then hit it with a heat gun. The solder is a low enough melting point that it melts and wicks into the strands after the heat shrink has shrunk but before it starts to melt or char.

Since I wasn't sure about them I haven't used them on anything critical (just side marker light after my MCE fenders and my stereo adapter harness) up to this point, just to try them out. But if I'm gonna start having problems I'll go back to crimping and heat shrink.

If you can crimp and heat shrink, why do you think solder is better?
 
If you can crimp and heat shrink, why do you think solder is better?

Well, the old fashioned way with a spool of wire and a soldering iron, I wouldn't. I hate that crap. But these little connectors don't take significantly more time than the crimp+heat shrink and once the solder and heat shrink melts, it barely adds any bulk to the wire at all so it tucks back into the plastic loom nicely with an almost-factory look.

On the right is my stereo harness, the first time I've used these, vs on the left the one from the PO which used those crimped wire-nut style.

20190830_185217.jpg


I've never been happy with the relative ease at which I can pull a crimped ~20 gauge connection apart, so I thought I'd try something different on those. For a couple of connections I had to redo (the first set of side markers I bought didn't work correctly), I couldn't pull it apart.

I also got a newer set of crimpers that seems to crimp tighter than the 40 year old Craftsman set I was using, and that's what I've been using on the stuff that could strand me (like the fuel pump I changed on my truck last weekend). But those connections are usually the larger wire sizes that haven't been as problematic for me in the past.

20200229_110558.jpg
 
Well, the old fashioned way with a spool of wire and a soldering iron, I wouldn't. I hate that crap. But these little connectors don't take significantly more time than the crimp+heat shrink and once the solder and heat shrink melts, it barely adds any bulk to the wire at all so it tucks back into the plastic loom nicely with an almost-factory look.

On the right is my stereo harness, the first time I've used these, vs on the left the one from the PO which used those crimped wire-nut style.

View attachment 144256

I've never been happy with the relative ease at which I can pull a crimped ~20 gauge connection apart, so I thought I'd try something different on those. For a couple of connections I had to redo (the first set of side markers I bought didn't work correctly), I couldn't pull it apart.

I also got a newer set of crimpers that seems to crimp tighter than the 40 year old Craftsman set I was using, and that's what I've been using on the stuff that could strand me (like the fuel pump I changed on my truck last weekend). But those connections are usually the larger wire sizes that haven't been as problematic for me in the past.

View attachment 144257
If you want to do some testing, send me an address and I'll send you 3 crimped and sealed wire connections.
 
Crap! The name eludes me, but there is a farm (real farm, not 2 acres and a horse type of farm) that sells excellent battery cables. Braided flat strap ground cables, cable by the foot. [Tempco?] Comes to mind I think.
Good for that, excellent selection of quality nuts and bolts, but the rest is tractor and implement parts.

I picked up some TEMCo AWG 2 and 4 welding/ battery cable from Amazon that is made in the USA and seems to be of pretty good quality and price. Could be what you're thinking of. They don't sell by the foot (at least not on amazon) but do sell in 5 ft increments.

This guy also does a decent job explaining the tools and techniques for crimping smaller connections. And from what I've read about crimping larger connections (i.e. for a Big 3 upgrade) you want to avoid the hammer-style crimpers and go with a proper hydraulic type. I haven't found a place that rents them yet, but I think if you live near an electrical supply shop or custom cabling place you could get them to crimp on some terminals for cheap if you bring in your own hardware. I picked up this one from amazon just because I have more than one project I want to use it on, but so far it seems to do the trick.
 
I picked up some TEMCo AWG 2 and 4 welding/ battery cable from Amazon that is made in the USA and seems to be of pretty good quality and price. Could be what you're thinking of. They don't sell by the foot (at least not on amazon) but do sell in 5 ft increments.

This guy also does a decent job explaining the tools and techniques for crimping smaller connections. And from what I've read about crimping larger connections (i.e. for a Big 3 upgrade) you want to avoid the hammer-style crimpers and go with a proper hydraulic type. I haven't found a place that rents them yet, but I think if you live near an electrical supply shop or custom cabling place you could get them to crimp on some terminals for cheap if you bring in your own hardware. I picked up this one from amazon just because I have more than one project I want to use it on, but so far it seems to do the trick.

Similarly I have enough projects to use one on and found the harbor freight one to be acceptable. After seeing sales and coupons, mine was around $40.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
 
Well, the old fashioned way with a spool of wire and a soldering iron, I wouldn't. I hate that crap. But these little connectors don't take significantly more time than the crimp+heat shrink and once the solder and heat shrink melts, it barely adds any bulk to the wire at all so it tucks back into the plastic loom nicely with an almost-factory look.

On the right is my stereo harness, the first time I've used these, vs on the left the one from the PO which used those crimped wire-nut style.

View attachment 144256

I've never been happy with the relative ease at which I can pull a crimped ~20 gauge connection apart, so I thought I'd try something different on those. For a couple of connections I had to redo (the first set of side markers I bought didn't work correctly), I couldn't pull it apart.

I also got a newer set of crimpers that seems to crimp tighter than the 40 year old Craftsman set I was using, and that's what I've been using on the stuff that could strand me (like the fuel pump I changed on my truck last weekend). But those connections are usually the larger wire sizes that haven't been as problematic for me in the past.

View attachment 144257
The right connector and tool can hold somewhere near 50lbs on 20 gauge wire, it’s all about using the right stuff :)
 
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The right connector and tool can hold somewhere near 50lbs on 20 gauge wire, it’s all about using the rubber stuff :)

well I'm either using the wrong tool, wrong connector or just doing a poor job at it.

As for connectors, I just use the generic ones available at the nearest parts store. I usually get the ones with heat shrink already on them, because I'm highly skilled t at remembering the heat shrink AFTER I've done the crimping.

Mine are an older version that's bare steel instead of the black coated, but they're like this.

1583446012434.png


I find it to be a higher quality of construction and feel more comfortable in my hands, as well as being a recognizable name from the days when Craftsman was good stuff.

I have another set that is some cheap no-name that I don't even remember buying - Guessing I went out in a huff and bought the cheapest one I could find one day when my Craftsman couldn't be located. They look like the one below, but with SAE markings, not metric. They're really stiff, feel poorly manufactured and the "wire cutter" blade is the dullest thing I've ever seen referred to as a "blade", so they've never made a good impression on me. The jaws don't really come together perfectly in line because I used them as a pry bar one time. Yet, they seem to be providing a tighter crimp. Not sure it would hold 50 pounds but definitely better than the Craftsman, which I'm not sure I would trust to hold 10 pounds.

1583446072973.png


They key difference is the insulated crimper part is curved, where the Craftsman's crimping surfaces are straight, and after the crimp is done, the connector even appears as if it has been squeezed harder.
 
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Anybody else have a roommate who does this? Maybe one who is also a member of the opposite sex and to whom you are legally bound? No? Just me?

dammit. This post led me to discover that my question was asked on the first page and I somehow missed it and have now rehashed it all.

Good info. Should those 'solder and shrink' connectors for smaller gauge wire be avoided as well?
Small wires (like audio) are totally okay to solder. At NASA, they use a physical electronic bond (crimping) for everything they can. Solder tends to weaken over time and bend after metal fatigue - crimping is a longer lasting and safe alternative that is much less time consuming.
I would suggest crimp and shrink connectors as a better alternative.
Not really but they aren't anything special. They are the same as a lot of stuff. If folks believe something is better, someone will build a product to sell them.
 
I've gone around the block on crimped vs soldered connections. I now crimp almost all of my wire connections. The key is to get the right crimps. I have a set of klein crimpers. They will crimp even cheap, crappy crimp terminals tight enough. The multi crimps (strippers, bare crimps, insulated crimps) don't work worth a damn. The other thing I've noticed with my cheap terminals is that the insulation just gets in the way. More times than not, I pull that plastic shit off the terminal before I crimp it. Even if I don't, I still use the non-insulated crimp side of the pliers...the insulated side just doesn't get them tight enough.

For 90% of my work, I grab the Kleins.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Crimping-and-Cutting-Tool-for-Connectors-1005SEN/100352095
I have a set of hydraulic crimpers for battery cables and other "big" stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811VYCQ6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Then I have some specialty stuff, like panduit crimps and weatherpack crimps.
 
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What is your opinion on this tool?

I still have a question...is crimping enough, or can crimping + soldering a connection be better in any way?
It hasn't let me down yet. I've done a few battery terminals with it. They seem solid, but longevity isn't known (I've only had it for a year or so). I do know a good crimp will be just as good as a solder connection any day. And, as many bad solder connections as I've seen, a decent crimp is MUCH better than a bad solder. You gotta get the right tools though. I used to despise crimp connections...until I got the Klein crimp tool. After that, getting enough force on the crimp was easy. My old crimp pliers used to pull out with just a slight tug. The Klein's fixed that. Battery terminals (and other large gage connections) were never easy. Since I have a motorhome that needs some attention, I just decided to buy the tool. Last time I tried to upgrade battery terminals was on my wife's Mitsubishi Eclipse. I had a pretty powerful audio system in it and I needed to upgrade the "big three." I used a cold chisel to try and crimp the connections long enough to solder them...and I needed a propane torch to get enough heat in there. I didn't want to repeat that mess with the Jeep or my Motorhome, so I bought the hydraulic crimp tool.
 
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i bought 1 like that amazon model in post 76, it works fine, does what it's supposed to. is this a tool you want to own? or i could send ya mine to use if it helps.


ooops, i thought i quoted @toximus, but guess i missed it.
 
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Here is a good article on making your own battery cables. I started here when I rehabbed the battery compartment of my RV.
https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/
FWIW, I didn't buy the high dollar crimpers. Several members on the RV forum I frequent had reported positively on the Harbor Freight Hydraulic Crimpers. Since I was buying for one time usage, I went cheap. I was happy with the product. I would hate to have to use the crimpers in a tight space. I felt like I need 3 or 4 hands, even on the workbench.
IMG_1299_HEIC-X3.jpg


The quality of the lugs and the proper heat shrink (that will seal the connection is important.
IMG_1309_HEIC-XL.jpg


If you are trapped inside and have the time, there is a long discussion and a lot of photos here:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/the-battery-cable-debate-524064.html#post5625521
 
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