Steering / track bar hitting G2 Core 44 axle differential cover
- Thread starter AK49LJ
- Start date
What I think really does not matter, I agree. The axle is dead center of the wheel well. So, since you must know the exact specs, have far back from center does it need to be?
The exact precise to the millimeter distance is exactly equal to whatever it takes to stop the diff cover from crashing into the track bar, keep the tie rod off the diff cover and the tie rod end out of the swaybar and trackbar mount.
Going back to a stock pitman is only going to make some of that worse. Still needs to be done, but it won't fix much.
I can certainly do that. But, it will result in the axle being further back than stock. The amount of material from the center of the axle tube forward is substantially more than the stock 44 I pulled out. The diff cover complicates things even more. Sure, I can push the axle back to the point that the Jeep has an underbite and my tires smash my fender wells, but that’s not exactly what I’m trying to do.
I guess I will just move forward with fabricating new steering linkage, track bar, and track bar mounts. It would appear my two choices are doing that or pushing the axle back much further than I desire to.
Question answered I suppose. Thanks guys, I appreciate all your input and help.
If you are trying to stretch the wheelbase is much easier to stretch the rear. My arms are adjusted to allow clearance with the Currie steering and a standard trackbar. I’m on 37” tires and no contact with the rear of my Genright fenders. I can post a few pics tomorrow. I will be stretching my wheelbase up front but that is requiring a kit similar to TNT off-roads kit. It won’t be for a few months and it will be 3 linked at that time also. I am 4 linked and stretched 5” in the rear already. Not sure why you are insisting on pushing the front out that far if you are making it all contact. Move it back just a little and all is well with what you currently have.
Actually, I just put this axle back where the factory one was before I started this whole project. I assumed it would be fine in the factory position. Used a level and plumb bob to find center on the factory one, and put this one in the same spot. Never had that give me issue on other projects. But, hey, learn something new every day. The XJ was running a Teraflex passenger and ended up with a Reid driver. GM 1 ton TREs, 1.5" DOM tie rod/drag link/track bar. Used a TNT frame side bracket, and welded on a Ruff Stuff axle side bracket for the track bar mounts. Threw a couple bends into the mix to clear things. Mainly an off road rig, so no sway bar end link mounts. Was on a 5.5" RE long arm kit, and Ruff Stuff body stiffeners too. Ford 8.8 rear.
Yeah I replaced a factory rubicon 44 housing with this axle and had to do a small amount of adjusting to my arms for everything to work correctly but over a year later and all is well. I’m currently running Currie/Savvy y link steering but had ORO on it at first.
I see you have a double sheer frame side track bar bracket. Those look like they push the frame side of the track bar forward a couple inches. The more I look at this, the more I think I need to do that. At a minimum. With stuff like this, I just end up wanting to redo all of it at once. Like, if I do that bracket, I am going to want to do the axle side too. And if I do that, then the steering has to be addressed to be on the same plane... slippery slope.
I just looked up the ORO setup. That is not something I have ever seen before. Ever hear of any kinds of failure on them? Or are the knuckle brackets pretty stout?
If you understand anything about steering, you will be able to understand why that is a shit system.
I believe this is what I’m running up front with my trackbar upper mount. It’s been on there for the last ten years or so. Since I originally put on the long arm kit. I still have that up front. I’m running Genright 4 link stretch in the rear. I used the ORO steering with no problems with bump steer and no stabilizer for at least six years. I liked how I could get new tie rod ends at the local parts stores. I pulled it off recently to put on the Currie steering so I could get my hydro assist fit up.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/...MIxInK3vHt5gIVj8DACh3tZALlEAQYAiABEgJ0g_D_BwE
https://www.quadratec.com/products/...MIxInK3vHt5gIVj8DACh3tZALlEAQYAiABEgJ0g_D_BwE
Similarly, I run a Core 44 assembly with an RE 1600 track bar, Currie Currect-Link steering, 4.5” MC springs, and MC DA Short Arms with no issues. I did have the same issue with the passenger side sway bar mount conflicting at full right but it was minor and I just used a die grinder to clearance it a little.
All I ever see on this forum is that anything other than the Currie steering or the original design steering is a shit system and is gonna cause bad bump steer. And it may be more inherent to causing bumpsteer and death wobble by design. It may not even be the best set up on these little factory axles. However I’ve used one form of crossover style steering or another on a few Jeeps over the years. I’ve never had a problem. I do not however skimp on maintenance or run worn out components. Maybe I’ve just been lucky or in the minority. Who knows. My particular Jeep drives no different with either of these systems that I can feel. I just hate blanket statements with no explanation. I get it you are worshiped here and are a Jeep guru. But I’ll be honest. I get sick of your short comments with people you do not know. I wouldn’t speak that way to you or anyone else. Whether on the web or in person. I’ve Got my full width 1 ton set up on stands in the barn and will be going full hydro so soon enough. Then all of it will be of no difference to me.
I did the same with the die grinder. But with the Savvy aluminum tierod and jam nuts vs. the standard Currie clamps I’m not sure it would not have been needed. Very nice set up.
Now that is the info I was looking for. Tell me, does the tie rod ever contact your diff?? How much room is there between them, with the tires straight? If you do not mind measuring, I would be really appreciative
I am all about cross over. Nothing beats a proper cross over setup, except full hydro LOL. Eventually I will do cross over. I think maybe he was referring to how those brackets attach to the knuckle (was my question about how they have held up). I can see them being strong, but I am also not light on my rigs and need a lot of extra strength, thus my question about it.
I would be surprised if anyone here thought Y link is in any way better than legitimate cross over.
The whole system has been fine. And I do not baby mine at all. I’ve run most everything here in Colorado minus a few trails and those are typically only run by non full bodied rigs or buggies. But yes I believe he is stating that crossover in general is a crap steering on these Jeeps. It is more prone to issues. Than the factory style I believe it’s a variation of a y link design
It does not make contact, I’ll get a measurement for you tomorrow. I cycled the suspension to determine the arm lengths. That gave me maximum forward without contact.
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