Front differential cover contacts track bar

[notnsuv]

First time 'cycling' suspension. Unhooked shocks, removed axle side of track bar, removed ACOS and springs, disconnected Anti-Roc.
Installed tires and lifted the passenger side first which didn't get too far before contacting the Bushwacker flares. Removed those and gained 4" on the passenger side. Limiting factor was the front lip of the inner fender near the headlight.

Same procedure on the driver's side and first contact was the (EDIT: Steering draglink) on the G2 diff cover which was at a point far less than the passenger side.
Going to have to do more cycling to check this out again but for now looking for a diff cover.

I just posted a link to a front diff cover that might help the situation but I can't help think there's more to the solution. Like a new trackbar that finds it's way around the diff? I'm not 100% on the brand but the lift is all RE except for Currie Correct Link steering.

Recommendations please?

I'll edit this when I can post pics via my phone but the one with contact showing didn't come out so will re-do.

 

[notnsuv]

First time 'cycling' suspension. Unhooked shocks, removed axle side of track bar, removed ACOS and springs, disconnected Anti-Roc.
Installed tires and lifted the passenger side first which didn't get too far before contacting the Bushwacker flares. Removed those and gained 4" on the passenger side. Limiting factor was the front lip of the inner fender near the headlight.

Same procedure on the driver's side and first contact was the trackbar on the G2 diff cover which was at a point far less than the passenger side.
Going to have to do more cycling to check this out again but for now.

I just posted a link to a front diff cover that might help the situation but I can't help think there's more to the solution. Like a new trackbar that finds it's way around the diff? I'm not 100% on the brand but the lift is all RE except for Currie Correct Link steering.

Recommendations please?

I'll edit this when I can post pics via my phone but the one with contact showing didn't come out so will re-do.

 

[jjvw]

Raise the entire axle up as high as it will go.

 

[notnsuv]

Raise the entire axle up as high as it will go.

Both ends? I thought it was one end then the other for this process.
I corrected the post. It looks like the steering draglink, not the trackbar that contacted the cover.
Guess I'll do it again to double check.

 

[jjvw]

Both ends? I thought it was one end then the other for this process.
I corrected the post. It looks like the steering draglink, not the trackbar that contacted the cover.
Guess I'll do it again to double check.

Both ends at once. This will show you how the track bar and diff cover interact. As well as any other steering interferences.

 

[Tob]

Unhooked shocks, removed axle side of track bar, removed ACOS and springs, disconnected Anti-Roc.

You didn't mention it, but I assume you reconnected the track bar after removing the springs, right?

 

[notnsuv]

Both ends at once. This will show you how the track bar and diff cover interact. As well as any other steering interferences.

Doesn't doing one side at a time follow your procedure (that I used)? And it matters if it contacts with only one side lifted, correct?
I thought I had this process figured out. Not a big deal to do it again, it's still apart and new shocks and spring are needed and definitely a different diff cover. I'll get better pictures as well.

You didn't mention it, but I assume you reconnected the track bar after removing the springs, right?

Yes, just inserted the bolt, did not tighten. I have to re-do it to get it clear in my mind. Now I'm confused whether it was TB or steering drag link. Sheesh. Sorry for the bother guys, I'll post back with updated, accurate info.

My sig line should be "Do it right or do it twice, and I'm a do it twice kinda guy".

 

[jjvw]

Doesn't doing one side at a time follow your procedure (that I used)? And it matters if it contacts with only one side lifted, correct?
I thought I had this process figured out. Not a big deal to do it again, it's still apart and new shocks and spring are needed and definitely a different diff cover. I'll get better pictures as well.
...

Testing for articulation won't show what is happening in the middle.

When cycling the axle, you want to put it in all possible positions that the shocks allow. You also want to put tires on and turn them side to side and give them a spin.

It's also a good idea to install the drive shaft at the top and the bottom of the axle's travel. You do this once, then rotate the pinion 90deg and do it again. If the shaft won't bolt up, it is binding.

 

[notnsuv]

Both ends at once. This will show you how the track bar and diff cover interact. As well as any other steering interferences.

Doesn't doing one side at a time follow your procedure (that I used)? And it matters if it contacts with only one side lifted, correct?
I thought I had this process figured out. Not a big deal to do it again, it's still apart and new shocks and spring are needed and definitely a different diff cover. I'll get better pictures as well.

 

[jjvw]

Doesn't doing one side at a time follow your procedure (that I used)? And it matters if it contacts with only one side lifted, correct?
...

Still no.

 

[psrivats]

Doesn't doing one side at a time follow your procedure (that I used)? And it matters if it contacts with only one side lifted, correct?
I thought I had this process figured out. Not a big deal to do it again, it's still apart and new shocks and spring are needed and definitely a different diff cover. I'll get better pictures as well.

There is "full bump" (what @jjvw is suggesting) and "full stuff" (what you tried already). You have to do both to understand all the interferences.

Edit - look at this thread.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/bump-stop-check-walk-thru-with-pics.12883/

 

[notnsuv]

Still no.

There is "full bump" (what @jjvw is suggesting) and "full stuff" (what you tried already). You have to do both to understand all the interferences.

Edit - look at this thread.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/bump-stop-check-walk-thru-with-pics.12883/

Thanks. Good info. I'll just need to put a little more effort into understanding this and get out there on my own.

I think a mistake that might have been made yesterday was letting my guys talk me into removing the shocks completely before we lifted each side of the axle. Wore me out with a crowd in the shop (all fun) and then a night time run afterwards (in the XJ) so I'm doing down time today and will hit it when I'm fresh.

I really appreciate all the patience, I'm often a little slow on the uptake, but OCD at the same time.

 

[jjvw]

Thanks. Good info. I'll just need to put a little more effort into understanding this and get out there on my own.

I think a mistake that might have been made yesterday was letting my guys talk me into removing the shocks completely before we lifted each side of the axle. Wore me out with a crowd in the shop (all fun) and then a night time run afterwards (in the XJ) so I'm doing down time today and will hit it when I'm fresh.

I really appreciate all the patience, I'm often a little slow on the uptake, but OCD at the same time.

The shocks you will be using need to be installed when making your final determinations.

Remember, the shocks determine how much the axle can move around. Anything that happens beyond the shocks does not matter.

 

[psrivats]

Thanks. Good info. I'll just need to put a little more effort into understanding this and get out there on my own.

I think a mistake that might have been made yesterday was letting my guys talk me into removing the shocks completely before we lifted each side of the axle. Wore me out with a crowd in the shop (all fun) and then a night time run afterwards (in the XJ) so I'm doing down time today and will hit it when I'm fresh.

I really appreciate all the patience, I'm often a little slow on the uptake, but OCD at the same time.

Take your time to understand how to cycle the axles properly, setting bumpstops correctly and what are the limiters to travel in your suspension. The knowledge you gain doing this carefully and correctly is extremely beneficial towards a well set-up Jeep. There is a lot of good information on this forum, ask for help as needed if you don't understand something.

 

[jjvw]

Take your time to understand how to cycle the axles properly, setting bumpstops correctly and what are the limiters to travel in your suspension. The knowledge you gain doing this carefully and correctly is extremely beneficial towards a well set-up Jeep. There is a lot of good information on this forum, ask for help as needed if you don't understand something.

It also helps to shift one's thinking to the shocks. Shocks determine many important aspects about how the suspension behaves. Use good shocks. Get shocks that fit correctly. Build for the shocks.

 

[notnsuv]

The shocks you will be using need to be installed when making your final determinations.

Remember, the shocks determine how much the axle can move around. Anything that happens beyond the shocks does not matter.

Part of the attempt was to determine correct shock length. I have the measurements but not this minute. We determined (my buddies) that the 5100s are shot because easily compressed with one hand.. beats me. But I wanted to replace them anyway, it rides pretty rough. I'm just about to search for opinions on the Rancho 5000x recommended here and a pals recommended 7000MT. He's a JK guy and I'm not sure they have 7000 for the LJ even if they might be a better shock.

Dumb question: do I need to determine which springs I'll be running before choosing shocks?
A lot going on so maybe I should just start a 're-build' thread to get all this crap in one place instead of either walking on other's posts and/or spreading the same questions in 50 places. That way folks aren't forced to view my incessant re-learn.

 

[jjvw]

....

Dumb question: do I need to determine which springs I'll be running before choosing shocks?
A lot going on so maybe I should just start a 're-build' thread to get all this crap in one place instead of either walking on other's posts and/or spreading the same questions in 50 places. That way folks aren't forced to view my incessant re-learn.

That's a very good question. You need springs first to determine the normal ride height. Which also means you need the Jeep to be at it's normal weight.

 

[jjvw]

This is a good quick read. Ignore that the shocks were the wrong type.

Thread '4" Rockjock front shock measurements' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/4-rockjock-front-shock-measurements.57281/

Using the provided measurements, I determined the ideal compressed length based on the desire for 50/50 shock travel and what the droop was from ride height.