Everything you describe is a shock issue to be addressed before exotic jounces.
SumoSprings vs. DuroSpring
- Thread starter ChadH
- Start date
Everything you describe is a shock issue to be addressed before exotic jounces.
Yeah I know lengths need to be measure for sure, just waiting to get nee springs first before I can do that accurately.
Yeah but I dont want stiff shocks. I want soft shocks, my body needs it. I have stiff shocks on the TJ currently, and they need a rebuild. It is a terrible ride.
The Gladiator had fairly stiff shocks, granted it was a lot heavier as well. And it still hit the bumps frequently. I did not want it any stiffer, only the final hit to soften up. Once I swapped to the HD springs it was going entirely the wrong direction with ride quality. The stiffer springs supported the weight properly but it made every bump and dip too harsh for a long drive for me. I dont want that same situation to happen with the LJ as it gets lifted a couple inches, and the TJ needs to be reworked entirely.
None of that changes that this is a shock issue to be addressed before exotic jounces. And this has very little to do with any requirement that the shocks be stiff
This is exactly what I'm going for.
Ok, so what's the solution with this then so I can prepare properly as the LJ gets lifted a small amount.
You start by getting the shocks sized and selected once you know the final ride height.
Not really. Durosprings are like 150 bucks. Off the shelf fox 2.5's are 3 grand. add $500 if you want custom tuning. A soft shocks with bottom out provisions is a completely viable solution. Yes I know tuned shocks are better. My RAM 2500 has Fox 2.5's w/ DSC. My JLUR has Fox2.5's w/ DSC. Even my willys jeep has 2.5 coilovers. My RAM and JL can blast down dirt roads with that wonderful feeling of "bottomless" suspension. Throwing 10k at a shock package is great, but a softer factory shock, with bottom out protection is fine too. especially for $150 bucks. It will make most people happy.
Wayne tunes my shocks too.
Understand that I am running Fox 2.0 with DCS reservoirs that are also tuned by Wayne. I haven't suggested anything close to resembling that for Chad.
How is a shock going to prevent bottoming out where there is metal on metal contact, without the shock being super crazy stiff? If the point of measuring compressed suspension length is to prevent the shock from being what bottoms out first, then what is going to prevent the harshness of the OEM bumps from fully compressing and causing metal on metal contact? Am I missing something here?
For purposes of understanding lets assume a 2.5" lift from stock height, granted I do not know what that means for compression and extended lengths but I think we can use some generalized things here to at least paint a picture of the situation and resolution.
When will mrblaine make this stop. 
p.s. I'm not summoning him. I hear he only works 16 hours on his day off (Sunday).
p.s. I'm not summoning him. I hear he only works 16 hours on his day off (Sunday).
Sorry, don't get me wrong. I get a few customers a week wander in my shop and ask how should they build their own jeeps. I always answer the same, Blow the entire budget on shocks, A well tuned shocks will outperform (on road, and off road) any lift, gimick, long arm, multi rate springs, bumpstop or whatever. Spend as much as you can on shocks, tuned if you can swing it. But not everyone has the budget. I am endorsing a cheap alternative
I don't disagree that a good build ought to be heavily centered around shocks and making them work well. But that isn't realistic here. We can still encourage the fundamentals of a good setup and doing the best we can with bolt on parts.
Exactly. Thats why I'm giving a thumbs up to the Durosprings. its a cheap bolt on (push in) part that works. Have you tried them? If not you should. They work pretty well for the money. At least if you legit still think they suck, you can say you tried them, And didn't like them.
"Bottoming out all the time" means you're driving way too fast for the conditions and setup. Assuming you aren't bombing along like it's a paved road suggests that you have the wrong shocks.
That said, the "good shocks mean you don't need better than factory bump stops" makes me wonder why a trophy truck with 3" coilovers AND 4" bypass shocks would add air bumps instead of picking better shocks
That said, the "good shocks mean you don't need better than factory bump stops" makes me wonder why a trophy truck with 3" coilovers AND 4" bypass shocks would add air bumps instead of picking better shocks
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That said, the "good shocks mean you don't need better than factory bump stops" makes me wonder why a trophy truck with 3" coilovers AND 4" bypass shocks would add air bumps instead of picking better shocks
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Partly because I don't think Chad is approaching the limits of capability of a single shock that costs as much as four used TJs.
Of course he isn't. My point is that even the best shocks money can buy can be overdriven and good bumpstops have a place.
Yes, good shocks and a careful driver greatly reduce or even eliminate the need for them. But if the driver pushes it or misjudges terrain good bumpstops prove their worth.
I do not think my position of getting the shocks sorted out before restoring to exotic jounces is an unreasonable one.
"Bottoming out all the time" means you're driving way too fast for the conditions and setup. Assuming you aren't bombing along like it's a paved road suggests that you have the wrong shocks.
That said, the "good shocks mean you don't need better than factory bump stops" makes me wonder why a trophy truck with 3" coilovers AND 4" bypass shocks would add air bumps instead of picking better shocks
View attachment 555119
Definitely not driving too fast all the time. I go pretty slow due to my brain injuries and wanting to see things without getting overly dizzy. Have you never ever in your life experienced the 'oops that was a bigger dip than expected' situation? Saying the shocks are the sole purpose for preventing bottoming out is a shock problem but also questioning why a trophy truck has air bumps? I'm confused what you're trying to say here. If shocks are the end all be all answer to this solution then why does the trophy truck with a +30,000 dollar suspension still have air bumps?
We've been down this road many times. I am not going to outboard and Im not spending 5 grand on just shocks. It is flat out not an option at this time unless someone else what's to pay for it for me. So lets work within the confines of bolt on applications please.
Read the first post if you want to understand the intent of this thread and question. I understand that bolt on options have limitations, which is the purpose for exploring these other bump stops. The intent is minimize the harsh hitting of stock bump stops where the bump stop fully compresses into the cup. The only way I know how to do that, is standard physics, which is to prevent a bump stop from fully compressing into the cup in the first place, or to quickly slow the speed and force at which that happens. In this instance, for a bolt on application that does not require custom fabrication, it appears the durospring is the only option unless there is another product not being discussed. That or significantly stiffer shocks, when we already discussed is something I do not want for ride quality purposes. Shock length is irrelevant if 1) the length is already appropriate meaning the shock is not bottoming out before the bump stop, and 2) if the problem is in fact the bump stop fully compressing into the cup allowing the cup to hit hard on the axle. This is the specific action I am trying to lesson. So, instead of saying 'get better shocks' why don't you enlighten me on what shock, that is a bolt on option, will do this? Explain how a shock, that is properly measured to still allow full bump stop compression so that there is metal on metal, will prevent, or rather lessen, the harsh impact of a fully compressed bump stop.