SumoSprings vs. DuroSpring
- Thread starter ChadH
- Start date
It’s odd that you are bottoming out so often that you are concerned about it.
I drive like I stole my Jeep, even with my old setup it was rare that I ever bottomed out. The only time I would is if I was on a camping trip with a ton of gear in my rig. Even then I would hammer down everywhere I went. Think hauling ass down rutted roads at 50mph. This was with only a 2” lift and it would take quite the whoop to cause me to bottom out
Are you sure you are hitting the bump stops and don’t have to long of a shock installed?
What kind of up travel do you have?
I drive like I stole my Jeep, even with my old setup it was rare that I ever bottomed out. The only time I would is if I was on a camping trip with a ton of gear in my rig. Even then I would hammer down everywhere I went. Think hauling ass down rutted roads at 50mph. This was with only a 2” lift and it would take quite the whoop to cause me to bottom out
Are you sure you are hitting the bump stops and don’t have to long of a shock installed?
What kind of up travel do you have?
Well that was the suggestion in other threads when I said point blank it is not an option for me. So what would you suggest then? Yes 'sort out shocks'. Ok, so be specific, what does that mean? We know about shock lengths already. What else will prevent metal on metal contact? Will the Rancho shocks that many run do this? Clearly the Fox 2.0's with reservoirs and adjuster that I have on my TJ are not the right way to go because they are far too stiff and it gives me headaches. I have heard others talk about, what were they called Black Max or something? Quadratech has their in house option which is probably just a rebranded Rancho or something. I know several have said nitro, such as what OME now sells, is also not a great option and too stiff. A thread several weeks ago I read talked about Rough Country having their new N3 shock out which 'could' be ok but of course they have a pretty bad history of stiffness. What other option should I consider?
In the Gladiator when loaded down for a trip I was hitting the bump stops frequently both on the highway (I90 is absolute garbage here) and on those forest roads that are just perfect for causing full suspension movement (kinda like woops). In my experience, going fast on a forest service road gives less chances of bottoming out than going slower, unless you're jumping. I expect to be in a similar situation once I have the LJ built even with heavier OME springs, I have not yet added up estimated weights. So I'm pre-researching now what solutions exists. The TJ definitely does not have too long of a shock, the foxes still have about 1-1.5 inches of compression available at full stuff. The LJ is all stock, including the shocks, so unless it came with shocks too long from the factory then it's not an improper sized shock issue. It very well could be shocks that are not valved correctly (ie not stiff enough). However, I do not want stiff shocks either, I am after a compliant suspension. The foxes in the TJ are stiff and it's a terrible ride. The LJ comparatively is very soft and much better for my body, but I know what is going to happen once more weight is added - compression of the bump stops. Which is what I'm looking to reduce the impact of, without getting an overly stiff shock.
Somehow I missed this post. It looks like this product is designed to basically do the same thing as the metalcloak duraspring. So how do you like them?
Let me try again. You should not have frequent, hard bottoming. If you do you're driving too fast for the road and vehicle. It doesn't matter if you're going 50 or 5. Frequent hard bottoming means your car can't handle that speed. A better suspension will enable you to go faster and is why we upgrade.
I believe in good bump stops. I was using trophy trucks to illustrate that even with massive, super expensive, tuned shocks there's a need for good bumps. Shocks are not the complete solution (except for the ones designed to be, with built-in bumps).
I upgraded my bumps with the prothane inserts. Did you see my thread? Compared to the factory bi,[s they are MASSIVE, and the rubber is much firmer. I haven't had them long but haven't felt ANY hard bumps. Crossing the tracks near my house used to bottom at 35mph. Since upgrading I"ve hit it at 50mph, and it feels clean and smooth. Only reason I haven't tried faster is the speed limit and nearby housing.
Well the progressive bump stops worked amazing on my Gladiator and did exactly what I was looking for without dropping 5g’s on shocks. I do not got fast in the woods, unless there is an emergency which does happen during fire season. Even just the county roads have posted limits that are far above what they should be if one considers vehicle capabilities.
Yes I did read your thread and it sounds like those bump stops are preventing a harsh bottoming out when hitting the unintended bump at an unintended speed ehich is exactly what I am looking for.
Maybe Im not being clear enough in my comments, which is fair so let me try to clarify. I want to alleviate hard hitting bump stops in the even bottoming out occurs. I am not purposefully planning on doing so. Also for clarification my hitting bumps all the time the other day was in a different vehicle, not mine. I have hit the bump stops in the LJ but have not fully compressed them. In the Gladiator I did hit bump stops a lot but that was when it weighed more than the springs could properly support. However even with proper springs and shocks hitting bump stops is still a potential and I want to avoid a hard crashing of metal on metal should it occur. Maybe that makes more sense?
Can you get the fox's retuned by a reputable company? Seems better than starting over?are they in the middle of their travel at ride height? Or will they be with the extra lift you are going to do?
You say you have 1"-1.5" shock shaft left at full stuff. Do you mean full stuff as in the metal on metal contact would happen? When bumps first touch?When the tires hit the fender?
I ask because if it is metal on metal contact and there is still room for the tires I would readjust the bumps to take advantage of the extra uptravel.
I like the idea of these type of bumps on my transit 250 work van. It's bumps work in a similar fashion but look wimpier. A little more sway and bottoming control would be good
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On the LJ, whatever is stock. It has stock everything, even the original shocks with stickers (kinda cool they're holding on). That said though I dont know, with stock components, if the shocks allow full compression without bottoming out themselves. It will be receiving a 2-2.5" lift hopefully over winter, so suspension travel will have to be measured. On the TJ I would have to measure when it gets back from the shop.
The foxes are on the TJ which is lifted 4" currently, and I dont think the foxes will work. I'm planning to return it to stock ride height plus a 3/4" spacer and was kinda using the TJ's current setup more to discuss shock length but it probably just caused confusion since that whole lift is going to be removed so it's more or less a moot point. Probably should have just left that out of the conversation entirely but I wanted to make a point that the TJ with the current shocks does not bottom out however the shocks are so darn stiff its not comfortable at all. I think it does highlight that if using a stiff shock to prevent full compression of the suspension so that there isn't metal on metal contact, my concern would be the ride would be terribly stiff. Maybe that is an invalid assumption, which is why I also have asked for shock suggestions.
As for the LJ, it is fully stock so I would have to have the shop remove the springs and measure where the shocks are at at full stuff (metal on metal). But thats wasted monies as it will be getting a 2-2.5" lift hopefully this winter. I'm really just trying to pre-plan here. I dont have a shop at home to do all of these measurements like so many of you do, wish I did. I can usually borrow my neighbors garage but usually only a couple days at a time so I'm pretty reliant on a shop a hour away to do measurements and things for me.
You mean the springs sagging? I measured them the other day and they were the generally used height for a stock spring. But I do agree the lower amount of travel is likely part of the problem. I can try checking again next weekend.
Yes, I mean the springs sagging. They're about 15 years old. I know mine on my TJ were sagging about 3/4" when I bought it in Dec 2016.
Not quite that many. But, you see that little green dot and the green stripe that is a blur caused by the green dot going round and round? That is me every time I try to follow the circular logic that is one of Chad's threads.When will mrblaine make this stop.
p.s. I'm not summoning him. I hear he only works 16 hours on his day off (Sunday).
