Super 35 rear end upgrade help

My concern with the manual transmission is being on a hill and needing to push in the clutch causing the Jeep to slightly roll backwards. If the Elocker does in fact disengage when direction is changed, then that would be my concern with the manual.
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If you had a Detroit, would this be a concern?
 
If you had a Detroit, would this be a concern?
Idk brother, never ran a single locker in my life. But the handling characteristics of the Detroit, as what I’ve read about, is undesirable on slick roads. Also the advise from several that I’ve read, is stating they aren’t a good choice if you are on road majority of the time.
 
Idk brother, never ran a single locker in my life. But the handling characteristics of the Detroit, as what I’ve read about, is undesirable on slick roads. Also the advise from several that I’ve read, is stating they aren’t a good choice if you are on road majority of the time.

That's a whole different set of real world considerations. :)
 
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I’m absolutely clueless as to what type of locker to run. Thought I had it figured out, then bounced around, and now I seem to be losing myself in the rabbit hole. Obviously, any locker is better than stock 4WD. I’m just torn on what direction to go. I have all the time I need to figure it out, I’m in absolutely no rush. Homework is vital when your getting ready to spend $1,000+ per axle. Especially when I plan on not having to touch it again for several years. I know what I want my rig to end up as, just unsure on exactly how to get it there, if you know what I mean? Like being a kid in a candy store haha!
 
Analysis paralysis... all those issues I outlined were nit picking. I think any of the 3 selectable lockers are a soild choice.

Ox does make an electronic switch for their locker if the lever was your main concern. You can still use the drive away lock and get a stout diff cover.

Elockers I think are on the lower end of the pricing.. so thats something to consider.

And the the arb... more costly.. but solid and widely used.
 
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Eaton Elocker disengages with directional change, and takes some wheel spin to reengage. Which, to me, seems like a bad idea since I have a standard transmission. No I don’t do any rock crawling, or super technical wheeling, but we do have some nasty hill climbs in Indiana. So to get stuck on the side of a muddy hill, or if I need to back up for a different approach it could be trouble. As I understand it....
This is not a real-world concern. I speak from experience. If it was Eaton would have overcome this issue a long time ago. It is something I have never noticed. To not buy it on such a basis would be to miss out on a fantastic product that is proven.
 
I like that with the Eaton E-Locker I can engage it in 2WD.
 
Freezing of the ARB's air lines is a non-issue, air doesn't freeze. Properly installed, the ARB Air Locker is a very solid dependable device. That's why the vast majority of the high-end rock crawlers choose it over any other selectable locker.
 
I like that with the Eaton E-Locker I can engage it in 2WD.
The only selectable locker that can't be engaged in 2WD is the factory Rubicon locker. Even that's not a trait of the locker itself, only the way the factory chose to design its control circuit. I rewired my Rubicon lockers so either or both can be engaged at any time.
 
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As far as full lockers, in the end I’d say Eaton and ARB are the top selectable choices and Detroit is the top automatic locker. If I wasn’t moving to a snow zone, I’d choose Detroit for price and dependability and I wouldn’t worry for a moment about it’s minor quirky road manners.

As far as a lunchbox, you can’t beat the PowerTrax No Slip for on road manners and off-road dependability. If you don’t mind minor clicking while turning, get an Aussie.

The rest of this as @Sancho said, analysis to paralysis.

I got the Eaton because of price and selectability and dependability. I have no regrets. I would be equally happy with an ARB but the onboard air amounting to a greater cost doesn’t work for me with 5 kids. I want the best function I can get for the $$$.
 
I think I’m going to just roll with my original plan here, and go with the ARB lockers. Ultimately that’s what I keep coming back to.

So now I just need a detailed list of what’s actually required to install them. Jerry was kind enough to share that the housing has to have slots made for the oil to drain out of the axle tubes. Someone mentioned notching a shim for routing of the air line?.... is there anything else, other than shimming and preload specs of the pinion and carrier?

Or do the ARB lockers come with all the information you need to install?

I get the whole warranty and peace of mind with taking it to a shop. But who is to say that the local guy has experience with the ARB, even if he says he does. I’m confident enough in my own mechanical ability. Plus My girls dad is a mechanical engeneer, has been for 20+ years. I’m sure he would help me out if I ran into something I wasn’t sure about. I’d really like to save the cash I’d spend taking it to a shop if possible. A correct install dont care who put it together... as long as it just that... Correct haha!

On the other hand, if I can’t get the details needed to install on my own, I won’t have a choice but to take it somewhere. So ARB experts, where ya at? Haha!
 
Where an ARB is concerned, you should take it only to a shop that is experienced with installing ARB Air Lockers. They require ARB experience, not just experience installing a standard locker that even I could install. They're above the pay-grade of someone just experienced at installing a different locker. I wouldn't even think about installing my own ARB Air Locker.
 
Arb is a stellar unit. I only use them with 35 splines because yukon zip locker doesn't have that option for a 44.
Yukons warranty is second to none. I've only had to warranty one in the past 8 years from a spider gear break in a 30 spline Dana 35. And another that was run out of oil and literally burned up/melted the cage and seals.

I refuse to install ox lockers in in a Dana 30 or m35. The smaller units have been nothing but trouble for me.

Eaton e-lockers tend to bend the actuator pins mostly from improper useage but it's a pita to deal with.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
I’m running a super 35 with 30 spline Yukon axels with an E-locker. Running 4.88’s on 33’s. Although I don’t have a lot of miles on it and I don’t beat my jeep up. So far so good. Thank you David Kishpaugh.