Sway bar linkage question

Jobu

Jobu

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Joined
Feb 7, 2021
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Huntsville AL
Thinking about getting quick disconnects. Looking at what I have currently, I wonder what this set up is? Some kind of complete aftermarket kit or did the PO install the extra link to compensate for the lift? Or is this stock? With a lift I think it isn’t stock, but I really don’t know. Next, any preferences on brand of disconnects to replace whatever it is I have?

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That looks like a poor man's sway bar link extension..I use the rubicon express adjustible links but honestly they all do the same thing until you step up to a sway loc or anti rock
 
Unbolt the bar a few times at the trail head and zip tie it up. If you think it's worth the effort then get disconnects. If not then leave it connected. Most disconnects wear out pretty fast, faster than stock links. I know people that have worn out disconnects and never even used them. Disconnects are there to save you time but if you only use them once or twice it's hardly worth it. They have way less value than airing down tires in my opinion and if you spend money on deflators you'll have plenty of time to disconnect while they work. The anti-rock isn't doing it right, that's a dual rate bar which it isn't.
 
Jobu said:
That bottom link would need to come off too if I installed disconnects, right?
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Your sway bar should angle slightly up towards the back of the Jeep. If you get something like JKS for 2.5" and up you should be fine with a 3" lift. If for some reason you end up with disconnects for a stock height Jeep there's nothing really wrong with leaving those extensions and using disconnects if everything clears.
 
I was reading the jks website and it says in some cases the brake lines might have to be extended to allow for the extra travel when the bar is disconnected. Is there are way to determine this before installing the disconnects? Or just put them on and see what happens?
 
Jobu said:
I was reading the jks website and it says in some cases the brake lines might have to be extended to allow for the extra travel when the bar is disconnected. Is there are way to determine this before installing the disconnects? Or just put them on and see what happens?
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You’ll be fine up to 3” of lift.
 
Jobu said:
I was reading the jks website and it says in some cases the brake lines might have to be extended to allow for the extra travel when the bar is disconnected. Is there are way to determine this before installing the disconnects? Or just put them on and see what happens?
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Your shocks determine the limits of travel. Hang the axle from the shocks and turn the steering side to side. That will tell you what you need to know about brake hoses.
 
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pagrey said:
Unbolt the bar a few times at the trail head and zip tie it up. If you think it's worth the effort then get disconnects. If not then leave it connected. Most disconnects wear out pretty fast, faster than stock links. I know people that have worn out disconnects and never even used them. Disconnects are there to save you time but if you only use them once or twice it's hardly worth it. They have way less value than airing down tires in my opinion and if you spend money on deflators you'll have plenty of time to disconnect while they work. The anti-rock isn't doing it right, that's a dual rate bar which it isn't.
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Good advice.
 
Jobu said:
I was reading the jks website and it says in some cases the brake lines might have to be extended to allow for the extra travel when the bar is disconnected. Is there are way to determine this before installing the disconnects? Or just put them on and see what happens?
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Yes, disconnect the sway bar and cycle the suspension. On a stock TJ the sway bar prevents over extending the brake lines and disconnecting the sway bar will stretch the brake lines. That's why JKS suggests this. It's a good thing to learn how to do for just about everything suspension wise on the Jeep so it is time well spent. If you don't have the tools or the time then just buy YJ brake lines.

Edit: this should be obvious but there is no difference between disconnecting the sway bar by unbolting it and disconnects, you can test everything before you buy them
 
pagrey said:
Yes, disconnect the sway bar and cycle the suspension. On a stock TJ the sway bar prevents over extending the brake lines and disconnecting the sway bar will stretch the brake lines. That's why JKS suggests this. It's a good thing to learn how to do for just about everything suspension wise on the Jeep so it is time well spent. If you don't have the tools or the time then just buy YJ brake lines.

Edit: this should be obvious but there is no difference between disconnecting the sway bar by unbolting it and disconnects, you can test everything before you buy them
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Paul - the swaybar when connected does not keep the front axle from completely drooping, or articulating, until the shocks stop it. As JJ said, it is the shocks that control the down travel on a standard TJ setup.

You may not be able to fully articulate it up on jack stands with the swaybar connected, but off road it will always go until stopped by the shocks.

So - if the brake lines were long enough before, they will be long enough with it disconnected.

That said - it's best to test it out if the OP is not sure.
 
Chris said:
Skip disconnects and get a RockJock Antirock. Trust me when I say do it once and do it right:
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My Jeep is not my DD. However, I do drive it to the trails, including cross country trips.
The Anti-rock makes my Jeep lean more than stock, which would not be ideal in an emergency situation.
I'm fine with it, but I do not think this is good advice for the 99.9% of Jeepers who are on-road more than off.
 
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NashvilleTJ said:
Paul - the swaybar when connected does not keep the front axle from completely drooping, or articulating, until the shocks stop it. As JJ said, it is the shocks that control the down travel on a standard TJ setup.
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Between the two of us, one has a Jeep with stock sway bars, stock length shocks and sway bar disconnects. Also, both of us have cycled our suspensions. Beyond that I have nothing to add.
 
Sorry for the follow up questions, but I’m just trying to understand what I have. Talking about the disconnects got me to looking at my bump stops. See pics please.

So, even if the sway bar is disconnected, the up travel (and I’m assuming this directly limits the down travel on the other side), is limited by the bump stops. In the pic, that doesn’t look like a lot of travel. Maybe it is, I don’t know. And as mentioned, the shock comes into play somehow.

Now looking at the pic of the tire/fender flare…are the bump stops set so the tire doesn’t rub the flare when flexed? It looks like the bump stops will engage and leave about 1-2 inches of clearance between the tire and fender. Am I understanding this correctly?

If so, even with the sway bar disconnected, I’m limited by the bump stops. If that is due to the flares, to gain more travel I would need to swap flares, correct? Then reduce the length of the bump stops to allow the extra travel.

Everything was done by the PO. Again, just trying to learn so I can make informed decisions.

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