the swing arm also has a tailgate tie-in (using factory holes) so you can open the tail gate and the tire carrier all at the same time.
swingarm tire carrier bumper
- Thread starter Eddie Greenlee
- Start date
As far as the receiver goes ill probably keep my tow bar under the bumper. unless yall can tell me a way to insert a receiver through this new/used bumper. and it be safe to tow & pull from
Mine has a square hole all of the way through the bumper and the receiver is welded on both sides. I suggest unless you can do that to just keep what you have.
im having a little welding done tomorrow I may cut the hitch off the tow bar and weld it to or in the bumper .. also may cut the part of the tow bar off that attaches to the frame and weld it to the new bumper and use it to attach to the frame of the jeep.
If it helps, I had a roll cage stripped, cleaned, and refinished for about $200. I would imagine a tire carrier would be a little less.
Well Its installed for now.
Should I get rid of my tow bar under the new bumper that attaches to the frame? and have a hitch welded into the new bumper on the front and back side? Thought it might gain a little clearance and weight loss? Or just leave it as is?
I know I asked this question earlier but just wanted to rethink the idea.
Should I get rid of my tow bar under the new bumper that attaches to the frame? and have a hitch welded into the new bumper on the front and back side? Thought it might gain a little clearance and weight loss? Or just leave it as is?
I know I asked this question earlier but just wanted to rethink the idea.
I think you're better off leaving the tow bar if you plan on doing any towing.
As I understand it, bumpers that have a tow hitch are very, very rarely rated for any kind of worthwhile towing — let alone a hitch that's welded on to a bumper that didn't have a hitch to begin with.
As I understand it, bumpers that have a tow hitch are very, very rarely rated for any kind of worthwhile towing — let alone a hitch that's welded on to a bumper that didn't have a hitch to begin with.
Your tow bar is most likely D.O.T. rated for towing. It mounts along the frame to spread out the tongue weight and pulling load vs. mounting flat against the rear crossmember of the Jeep frame. It may not look pretty but it will be higher rated than your bumper assembly. Only a handful of aftermarket bumpers are actually tow rated AND also certified for towing. Do you have any pictures of the method and number of attachment bolts used to hold that bumper to the rear crossmember? if it is of a good design, it should be using all 10 bolts at minimum, this includes the two underside frame end bolt attachment points as well. Before modifying the bumper to add a 2" receiver and safety chain loops, check how well it mounts to the rear crossmember and remember tongue weight adds to overall load weight on the rear crossmember bracket so tie-ins to the frame as stated earlier here would be recommended at least for the outside four bolts. As far as the design goes, it is straight forward and most importantly, it looks as though some thought went into the load carrying capacity of the swing gate. The designer/builder used a double shear layout to support both top & bottom of the pivot point in his design. It has the bracket over the top of the spindle to assist in load management in the double shear fashion which is better than a lot of other mass produced even name brand bumpers out there. I can't attest to the quality of welds or material wall thickness but the hinge design is also as important since that is where most swing gate carriers fail over time. The second most common failure area would be latch area and design, rattles don't necessarily count as a failure but can be annoying. A broken latch or hinge from the weight of a cantilevered tire hanging out however would be considered a design failure.
RR
RR
Thank you very much for the information RangerRick. The bumper is made of 3/16" steel. I do have 2 bumper to frame tie-ins on the way from poison spyder. So there will be 2 bolts (passing through the bumper brackets and through the cross member and into the tie-ins) holding the bumper to the frame ( and two bolts holding the tie-ins to the frame} on both sides.
Then there will be 4 other bolts attaching the bumper to the cross member in the pre-drilled locations in the cross member. the guy that built the bumper made the (bumper attachments) holes match up with the cross member. So that would be 12 bolts holding it to the jeep.
The latch, is a design that can be tightened as much as need be , because of the all thread u-bolt. I do wish I could slide a lock through it for security , so I might replace it some day.
I am surly not in a hurry to do any cutting and welding right now so ill just leave it to the tow bar to do all the towing.
I am going have 2 D-ring shackle/clevis welded onto the bumper for recovery . They will be welded in front of the bumper brackets where they attach to the frame.
hope this all make sense.
Hey yall Ive got another question. If I were to cut a square hole through the center of the bumper (all the way through) and have a 1/4" thick receiver welded into the bumper ( welded on the front and the backside) would that compromise the structural integrity of the 2 x 4 x 3/16 square tubing bumper?
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