To all of the people in this thread that have purchased multiple seals and bearing kits to replace leaking seals, there is a cheaper way. You can purchase the locking collar separately for about 8-10 bucks, then press off the bearing and replace the seal. Still a pia, but not as expensive especially if you have recently purchased a new bearing. I have had a couple of issues with the rubber coated seal when installing on a Ford high pinion 9 inch rear. If you aren't super careful part of the rubber outer can fold under when inserting it into the house and it will create a leak on the outer part of the seal. Also as mentioned previously if the brakes have been updated to aftermarket discs the retaining plate is important because the disc brake mounting bracket is much thicker than the stamped steel drum brake backing plate. It is always a good idea to check the axle shaft for end play, because there shouldn't be any.
I have been struggling with some of these same issues on my high pinion 9 inch Currie rear axle and I have determined that the axles and bearings were improperly installed when I bought the Jeep. I had close to .125 end play on both rear axles, so I replaced bearings and seals and I still had end play. With a tapered bearing, end play is no good. I did some research and found that with the disc brake conversion I have I should have had a spacer installed between the bearing retainer and the seal to maintain proper bearing preload and the proper crush on the seal. I did research the lock ring and found out that I could purchase the lock ring seperate from the bearing set so I don't have to destroy a new axle bearing. I use a bearing spreader on the bearing and press the bearing off in a press. I just got done making some spacers in the lathe to preload the bearings and seals. I cut a notch out of the spacer so it could slide over the axle shaft and then when the bearing retainer is snugged down it preloads the bearings and expands the seal. So far no leak on bearings that had 2500 miles on them before I made this mod. I have been buying timken Set 20 for my 9 inch rear and the quality seems very good, and I have been buying them off of amazon for about 33.00 each. I am still thinking about building a new set of bearing retainers that has a lip full circle, or purchasing a new design that Currie has for around 45.00 each.
I have been struggling with some of these same issues on my high pinion 9 inch Currie rear axle and I have determined that the axles and bearings were improperly installed when I bought the Jeep. I had close to .125 end play on both rear axles, so I replaced bearings and seals and I still had end play. With a tapered bearing, end play is no good. I did some research and found that with the disc brake conversion I have I should have had a spacer installed between the bearing retainer and the seal to maintain proper bearing preload and the proper crush on the seal. I did research the lock ring and found out that I could purchase the lock ring seperate from the bearing set so I don't have to destroy a new axle bearing. I use a bearing spreader on the bearing and press the bearing off in a press. I just got done making some spacers in the lathe to preload the bearings and seals. I cut a notch out of the spacer so it could slide over the axle shaft and then when the bearing retainer is snugged down it preloads the bearings and expands the seal. So far no leak on bearings that had 2500 miles on them before I made this mod. I have been buying timken Set 20 for my 9 inch rear and the quality seems very good, and I have been buying them off of amazon for about 33.00 each. I am still thinking about building a new set of bearing retainers that has a lip full circle, or purchasing a new design that Currie has for around 45.00 each.
figure it out and at least I’ll have a two year warranty if it leaks again. They blew air into the diff to confirm it was leaking from seal around shaft and not axle housing. Just like I thought, leak was coming from seal around shaft.
