TJ sways side-to-side at higher speeds

Joethrottle81

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Joined
Mar 27, 2021
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60
Location
Massachusetts
I have a 2000 wrangler with a 6 inch lift. I got like 5 inches lift out of it and it’s all alighned up and drives very good. The only thing I noticed is that I do have a very minimal sway kinda left and right as I get past 40 mph. It does do it below 40 but very minimal. I am running a drop pitman and drop trac bar bracket. I was wondering if I can put the stock pitman back on and eliminate the trac bar drop bracket and use a adjustable stock style trac bar to use the original trac bar mount again. If I can get this thing to just not sway I would love it because it goes so well now that I put a new steering box in and I’m the closest I’ve ever been to it driving really nicely. I hear drop pitman arms cause a slight wander and I have that., any insight would be helpful thanks a bunch
 
Remove the drop pitman arm and drop trac bar bracket; install a quality adjustable trac bar such as JKS or Curry, center the differential under the body and have the Jeep realigned.
The trac bar and steering should be on similar planes of operation.
Other more knowledgeable members will have more advise...
 
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Remove the drop pitman arm and drop trac bar bracket; install a quality adjustable trac bar such as JKS or Curry, center the differential under the body and have the Jeep realigned.
The trac bar and steering should be on similar planes of operation.
Other more knowledgeable members will have more advise...
Thanks I’m gonna try the stock pitman and I’ll get a new adjustable trac bar. That’s what I have now but my trac bar is set up with the bushing on the end and I need the stock end to fit the stock bracket. I have the jks adjustable trac bar in front. Can I just swap the end to the style I need or do I have to replace the whole bar?
 
Thanks I’m gonna try the stock pitman and I’ll get a new adjustable trac bar. That’s what I have now but my trac bar is set up with the bushing on the end and I need the stock end to fit the stock bracket. I have the jks adjustable trac bar in front. Can I just swap the end to the style I need or do I have to replace the whole bar?
JKSOGS125 for 4"+ lifts
I believe this is what you have presently...

87f63e6dbfe8e490f6408aed0a7326ae_720x.jpg
 
Are you just rephrasing what I posted above or you didn't understand what I was recommending ?
In the words of the famous cartoon character Foghorn , " It's a joke son , a funny ".

If you centered the DIFFERENTIAL under the Jeep, the Right wheel would be 16" to the right of the body.
Please don't take what I offered too seriously , but I did laugh out loud when I read you original post and thought
of the DIFFERENTIAL centered.
 
Did you get your caster angle adjusted? Mine would pull left/right until I fixed my caster angle
My thought as well - check caster, caster is a critical part of the steering equation - it gives a stable, planted feel and heavier hand at the wheel when in the right range in my experience.

A dry test of all components up front is good to do

Quality sway bar links (JKS) are worth it to me

make sure your tires are good and inflated properly and toe is correct.

keep is posted.
 
In the words of the famous cartoon character Foghorn , " It's a joke son , a funny ".

If you centered the DIFFERENTIAL under the Jeep, the Right wheel would be 16" to the right of the body.
Please don't take what I offered too seriously , but I did laugh out loud when I read you original post and thought
of the DIFFERENTIAL centered.

Details matter. It doesn't have to be a joke. You aren't wrong.
 
My sway bars are stock and the bushings in the front are brand new but the rear sway bar bushings I have never changed. They look ok but I kno they are original. The links are the rough country links that come with the kit. I have a set of jks front adjustable links that I will put in this weekend… the Jeep has been lined up and I’m at 6.53 caster with .15 toe. When I drive it tracks straight as can be. The wheel has a great return to center and when I hit bumps the wheel stays straight and dosnt shake or shimmy at all. It actually drives really great till I get to around 40. Then it just seems like it’s very unstable.. almost like it’s too tall and I’m on pizza cutters for tires. Feels like it wants to tip over . Also I do notice when I’m on a smooth road if I go over any small dip in the road that’s where I can feel it get kinda squirrely.. it was sooo bad and then I got a new steering box and it’s very drive now and again till about 40 mph it’s really great. But I don’t like the way it feels over 40 mph. That’s why I was thinking it’s too tall and I was thi should lower it to 3.5 to 4 inch range. I have been over everything in the front end and everything is tight and new.
 
My sway bars are stock and the bushings in the front are brand new but the rear sway bar bushings I have never changed. They look ok but I kno they are original. The links are the rough country links that come with the kit. I have a set of jks front adjustable links that I will put in this weekend… the Jeep has been lined up and I’m at 6.53 caster with .15 toe. When I drive it tracks straight as can be. The wheel has a great return to center and when I hit bumps the wheel stays straight and dosnt shake or shimmy at all. It actually drives really great till I get to around 40. Then it just seems like it’s very unstable.. almost like it’s too tall and I’m on pizza cutters for tires. Feels like it wants to tip over . Also I do notice when I’m on a smooth road if I go over any small dip in the road that’s where I can feel it get kinda squirrely.. it was sooo bad and then I got a new steering box and it’s very drive now and again till about 40 mph it’s really great. But I don’t like the way it feels over 40 mph. That’s why I was thinking it’s too tall and I was thi should lower it to 3.5 to 4 inch range. I have been over everything in the front end and everything is tight and new.
I run 35 inch tires on 15s with a sye and adams driveshafts..
 
In the words of the famous cartoon character Foghorn , " It's a joke son , a funny ".

If you centered the DIFFERENTIAL under the Jeep, the Right wheel would be 16" to the right of the body.
Please don't take what I offered too seriously , but I did laugh out loud when I read you original post and thought
of the DIFFERENTIAL centered.
I measured it and that’s about what it is… everything looks good and I’m pulling my hair out trying to figure it out. Thanks for ur help
 
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What about your control arms? Have you replaced the bushings? If not, they could be soft and cracked causing movement.

Are you running short arms? Trying to get that much lift out of short arms really screws with the suspension geometry and most likely the handling. Most of the experts on here say you want 3 to 3.5 in suspension lift and 1 to 1.25in body lift.
 
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Jim
What about your control arms? Have you replaced the bushings? If not, they could be soft and cracked causing movement.

Are you running short arms? Trying to get that much lift out of short arms really screws with the suspension geometry and most likely the handling. Most of the experts on here say you want 3 to 3.5 in suspension lift and 1 to 1.25in body lift.
all control arms are brand new adjustable and I even took them off to check all the bushings and they are in brand new shape.. I think I’m gonna lower it down to a 3-4 inch lift. It drives really good but I think the height is makin it instable. I’m gonna try getting rid of the drop pitman and drop trac bar bracket and if that dosnt help .. down she goessss:( thanks for the input
 
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Joe, where are you at with your suspension? Our 97 TJ is experiencing similar symptoms. It’s about 5” lift that was done way before we got it. Lots of new parts over the past year and it’s still unstable at 50+
I’m replacing the one year old Rough Country track arm because it slipped off bushing on passenger side mount.
If that doesn’t help I will look into lowering it to 3-3.5”