TJ's TJ

Could be the angle. But it appears that the rear axle could be pushed back towards the rear. Seems as if the axle is line centered in the rear wheel well.

We have adjustable uppers and lowers (JKS J-AXIS), I set the lengths to what is recommended by Curry for their 4" lift arm lengths. I thought this was just what you got with a 4" short arm lift? Is it expected that the axle can be centered better with adjustable control arms with a 4" short arm lift?
 
Got our 3D printed JEEP logos on with 3M VHB tape:

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Picked up a gallon of Fluid Film and the Fluid Film Pro Gun to spray inside the frame.

Started by putting tape over all of the holes:
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Here is the pro gun with one of the extension nozzles:
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This stuff is thick! I had it in the house at 70 degrees... Took a lot of stirring and I even started blowing my heat gun into it as I stirred to get it to soften up. Eventually got it pourable. Sprayed it at about 100 psi at the gun.

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Put about 1/4 of the can into the frame. Garage now smells like a barnyard.

We also got the Hardtop out and replaced the bottom seals:
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And got the doors on:
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As it sits, it is about 1" higher in the rear, but it only has a few gallons in it, we may add some spacers up front.

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My hours of calculating backspacing and tire widths for tire stickout, worked out well. Tire stickout past the wider OEM flares (Rubi and Sarah) is perfect at about 1":

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That's first class. Thanks for sharing.
Are those smoked out lenses on the marker lights? Where can I get some 😎
 
Toe adjustments are much easier to make when the front wheels are on turn plates. These are our homemade ones. Two 12” laminate floor tiles with grease between them

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Said many times but truly awesome work and documentation. come on spring right, enjoy it...life long memories for sure. I bet his buddies think different now about the process and outcome.
 
Thanks. We’ve been out for a few quick rides. So far, it has been great. We adjusted the control arms to improve the rear pinion angle and front caster. Haven’t had it up to highway speeds to see if the front shaft is vibrating at all. We’ll see.
 
When you primed your oil pump did you have your valve cover off? I have my valve cover off and I'm priming the pump but I have one rocker not getting any oil out of the push rod. Just curious how much oil is supposed to come out. Steady stream, squirt out etc...??
 
When you primed your oil pump did you have your valve cover off? I have my valve cover off and I'm priming the pump but I have one rocker not getting any oil out of the push rod. Just curious how much oil is supposed to come out. Steady stream, squirt out etc...??

I did not have the cover off. Sorry
 
Coronavirus, I think they are only doing commercial registrations right now, and I don't want to go hang out in the registry for hours in this climate... It can wait a bit, not like we have anywhere to go in it anyways
 
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We have not had them up to highway speeds, so can't comment on noise or how the move or vibrate. I did change the securing bolt for the arm to a cap screw from the thumb knob that they come with (to be able to tighten them down better). And the doors will hit them at full swing so shorter straps are needed...
 
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So it looks like our build thread will live on now that my son has found a new "accessory" for his Jeep.

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1947 Bantam T3-C Civilian 1/4 Ton trailer. My wife's uncle had it sitting behind his barn. Gave it to us to save...

Bantam built many of the Military Jeep 1/4 Ton trailers for WWII. When the war was over, they built the civilian version for a few years with left over parts.
 
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The tubs were welded on with some stitch welds around the edges and under the floor, we cut them to get the tub off to be able to get the frame repaired/refinished. We decided that every bolt should be replaced, so they were all cut off leaving a pile of parts to be de-crusted and refinished...

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the sheet metal floor was pretty much toast so we made this frame to:
1. attach a marine plywood floor to
2. make the tub bolt on (tub sides will be welded to this frame, then this frame will be bolted to the real frame)

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