Tore off a shock mount, interference with rear axle (05 LJ)

Blackjack said:
OP you should post some more pics of stuff like your control arms and front suspension. That track bar does not look like Pro Comp and neither does the one control arm I can see.
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You are correct! I've been going through the suspension and replacing the procomp parts with upgraded adjustable components as I was sorting out some vibrations and getting my pinion set in the right places. The only thing from Procomp that remains at this point are the swaybar endlinks and the springs.

Where i had the ability to choose, everything was selected for 4" lifts.
 
That rear track bar deserves a second look, that is the oddest one I have ever seen. Maybe installed upside down or backwards as Jerry suggested, it almost looks like it has been cut and welded or just plain kinked?
 
Far as I can tell its on correctly... The instructions dont show much in the way of useful photo angles, but perhaps the adjustable side is inverted?

https://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/92107500.pdf
Screenshot 2024-03-22 154226.png
 
So I've picked up some new bits to throw on the jeep as I hunt down a lift that plays nicer with these 35s.

Currently my thoughts are:

adjustable upper and lower front control arms to match the adjustable rears.
4" Currie springs
1.25" or 1" body lift spacers
1" Motor Mount lift
take OUT the existing skid plate 1.5" spacers
potentially replace the skidplate with a tummy tuck plate??? ( since I am already going down the adjustable arms route)
4" lift spec non-disconnecting rear rollbar endlinks
antirock 4" antiswaybar front bar+links
SYE + DCDS (Not sure when to best measure out the shaft during this process)

Still need to research if extended brake lines are going to be necessary in this process and also need to make sure the shocks I bought are appropriate for the travel. Picking up some big and tall jackstands today to held measure that out.

Pretty sure that will put me where I need to be! I've heard you dont REALLY need a SYE with an LJ + NP231 @ 4" of lift but I'd rather get my pinion angles set once, and get the axles in the right spot and forget about it for years, you know?
 
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RexTreks said:
potentially replace the skidplate with a tummy tuck plate??? ( since I am already going down the adjustable arms route)
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There are several options here. For my 05 LJ, I installed the UCF Extra-Clearance skid in 3/8" aluminum, gaining a bit over 2" of clearance. They have shallower and deeper ones available. And Savvy, and others, of course.

RexTreks said:
SYE + DCDS (Not sure when to best measure out the shaft during this process)
Click to expand...
The *best* time to measure for the shaft is after installing the lift and the shallower skid and the SYE, so you're measuring directly from reality.

RexTreks said:
I've heard you dont REALLY need a SYE with an LJ + NP231 @ 4" of lift but I'd rather get my pinion angles set once, and get the axles in the right spot and forget about it for years, you know?
Click to expand...
At 4" lift on an LJ you're right at the crossover between needing or not needing an SYE. You might get by without one - or not. But if you do any kind of a tummy tuck, which is essentially adding "lift" to the tranny, you will definitely need one.
 
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OldBuzzard said:
There are several options here. For my 05 LJ, I installed the UCF Extra-Clearance skid in 3/8" aluminum, gaining a bit over 2" of clearance. They have shallower and deeper ones available. And Savvy, and others, of course.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback - I think a UCF skid would work great for me here. I have the auto transmission in my LJ so I've read that the lopro mount is a no-go - so the extra clearance (NOT the Ultra clearance) is the right move for me.
OldBuzzard said:
The *best* time to measure for the shaft is after installing the lift and the shallower skid and the SYE, so you're measuring directly from reality.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. I'll save the Driveline for very last :)
 
I did also notice that I have some sort of rear track bar relocator. It appears to be 4 inches or so above the factory mounting point. I seem to be in good standing so far for contact in droop, but still need to test where things go in full compression. More on that soon.
 
I have the exact same Currie springs in my garage waiting to be installed.
How much of a pain was it to install yours as they seem quite tall?
 
RocknLJ said:
I have the exact same Currie springs in my garage waiting to be installed.
How much of a pain was it to install yours as they seem quite tall?
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Bear in mind I had a set of mystery previous owner procomp springs instead of stock ones.

The rears were easier than the fronts to get out. Remove the shocks, sway bar endlinks, track bar and you'll get them out/in no problem with just a crowbar.

Fronts were a bit harder.
I removed the drive line, endlinks, trackbar from the frame side, shocks, AND had to use use spring compressors both in and out.

Installing the Currie 4" bumpstops went alright but was annoying to attach hardware with your hands inside the springs. The rear upper bumpstop bolt that was supplied was too short ~50mm m10x1.5 and I had to order/source a 75mm version so it would work with new upper rubber insulators. Be ready to dril and tap two holes!
 
RexTreks said:
I did also notice that I have some sort of rear track bar relocator. It appears to be 4 inches or so above the factory mounting point. I seem to be in good standing so far for contact in droop, but still need to test where things go in full compression. More on that soon.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure this is exactly what sent my rear axle into the fuel lines.

In this thread, AndyG wrote the same, and now that I know I have one of those brackets, I can confirm with my two crushed fuel connectors!
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...kbar-or-relocation-bracket.67192/post-1242809

Question to the group: Now that I have a Rough Country 4"-6" lift track bar, should the relocation bracket be removed?
Seeming like an easy yes to me!

link to bar I'm using:
https://www.roughcountry.com/product/forged-adjustable-track-bar-1075
 
LONGJP2 said:
You may need an angled bracket to compensate for the axle being tilted up.
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I'm thinking that the funky curvature of this aftermarket rear track bar is taking that into account, It is by no means a straight bar.

I'll experiment with it and if I can't get it to play nicely I'll just get a currie bar
 
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