I’m diagnosing some wandering in my steering and pulled of the track bar noticing that the bolt isn’t the size of the hole. Does this seem odd? I’m not sure what brand track bar this is as it was installed prior to me owning it. I looked around and the end looks similar to a procomp.
Track bar bolt isn't the same size as hole
- Thread starter Jeremytbeau
- Start date
In theory if the bolt is properly torqued then the rod end should not move.
In practical experience I've found that mis-matched hardware will sooner or later cause a problem.
I would either get a new rod end that has the same size as your bolt, or, if this rod end is still in good condition, then get a bolt that fits the rod end correctly and drill out the frame mount holes. I recommend going with a new rod end of the right size. They are wear items. And if you don't know how old it is then replace it for your safety.
In practical experience I've found that mis-matched hardware will sooner or later cause a problem.
I would either get a new rod end that has the same size as your bolt, or, if this rod end is still in good condition, then get a bolt that fits the rod end correctly and drill out the frame mount holes. I recommend going with a new rod end of the right size. They are wear items. And if you don't know how old it is then replace it for your safety.
How does your practical experience explain the slots in the front lower control arm mounts on the axle?
Lilnuts
TJ Enthusiast
Lilnuts
TJ Enthusiast
Clamping force will hold it all together. That's why your lower control arms don't don't knock around.
Lilnuts
TJ Enthusiast
I've never seen an aircraft heim joint rely on " clamping force" as opposed to close tolerance. Why would this situation be any less important?
To start with, your Jeep does not fly. Things that fly have a redundant system in place in case the moron who was supposed to tighten the bolt down to the correct torque value to provide the clamping force needed to stabilize the joint forgot what his torque wrench was set to because his wife made him sleep on the couch.
So, to assist with those things, aircraft fasteners are designed to be redundant in case a slip critical connection is compromised and they do so with specific grip range bolts and other things. None of those change how a slip critical connection works and that is purely through clamping force generated with the bolt is stretched correctly.
This situation is far less important because Jeeps don't have wings and airplanes can't pull over on a cloud and check things.
Wow, is this normal for this forum? Thanks to those that answered without trying to pick an internet fight.
No fighting. Just explaining. Clamping force is what is needed. Not a bigger bolt. Your wandering lies elsewhere and not in the trackbar.
When diagnosing any problem and something stands out to you as questionable, it will always be in the back of your mind if you do nothing about it. That is just human nature. Clamping no clamping whatever, to me it just seems odd as well. The hole on the bracket looks to be close to the edge of the metal, so drilling that hole bigger might cause a problem. I might suggest replacing the heim joint end with the proper size (bearing) for the bolt you have.
I am chasing wondering steering and DW issues also. When I push and pull on a tire that is in the air my pitman arm can move about 3/8 of an inch before my steering shaft will move. The movement at my tires is near 5/8 of an inch back and forth. My tires move immediately when my steering wheel moves. So as much as I do not want to I am going to replace the steering box. But just as you are doing, I have been over every little thing in the front end and fixing anything that seems odd to me.
good luck
I am chasing wondering steering and DW issues also. When I push and pull on a tire that is in the air my pitman arm can move about 3/8 of an inch before my steering shaft will move. The movement at my tires is near 5/8 of an inch back and forth. My tires move immediately when my steering wheel moves. So as much as I do not want to I am going to replace the steering box. But just as you are doing, I have been over every little thing in the front end and fixing anything that seems odd to me.
good luck
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Forgive me for hijacking - Something important I learned from one of your past comments was about "biasing" in reference to control arms and positioning them the same way (forward or back) when the bolt hole appears too large. I understood that to be because you were "matching" the position of more than one arm a certain way before applying that clamping force.
Is that same "biasing" necessary when positioning a track bar like OP is asking about? Or is it irrelevant in this instance?
Typically the hole size is fairly close to the bolt size in that application so the bias is accounted for. In this case, a small sleeve or bushing could do the same thing but it is vastly important to understand that is not stopping and will not stop the bolt or rod end from moving around. Key is also to make the bushing shorter so it doesn't get clamped on.
Not_Invented_Here_
TJ Addict
Well, I actually thought that if I used those expensive slotted washers you sell for the purpose of removing the slop from that slot would be a good start. And also knowing why the slots exist and that it was designed to allow some adjustment that could be then locked in position with a cam washer helps too. And from the pic it seems like the bolt has been worn down makes me think it has been moving despite it being tight explains my response to get a rod end that has the same size hole as the bolt's diameter.
And as my TJ does not fly why do so many linkages seem to fit the mounting bolt? All those engine crankshaft bearings seem to fit the bolts pretty snugly. Actually, the only time I remember using a 1/2" bolt in a 1" hole is when I was half-assing something.
Those expensive washers the slots are to solve a very specific problem totally unrelated to stabilizing that connection. Currie uses a greaseable bolt sometimes, the grease goes down through the center of the bolt, out a hole in the middle of the bolt, then back along the bolt to the inside of the mounting faces. If the mounting face doesn't seal the end of the JJ ball faying surfaces like with the slots, then the grease takes the path of least resistance and just squirts out the slot. The JJ washer seals up the end of the ball and forces the grease into the race around the ball.Well, I actually thought that if I used those expensive slotted washers you sell for the purpose of removing the slop from that slot would be a good start. And also knowing why the slots exist and that it was designed to allow some adjustment that could be then locked in position with a cam washer helps too. And from the pic it seems like the bolt has been worn down makes me think it has been moving despite it being tight explains my response to get a rod end that has the same size hole as the bolt's diameter.
And as my TJ does not fly why do so many linkages seem to fit the mounting bolt? All those engine crankshaft bearings seem to fit the bolts pretty snugly. Actually, the only time I remember using a 1/2" bolt in a 1" hole is when I was half-assing something.
The cam washer doesn't lock the Joint into position. The cam washer locates the bolt in cam horseshoes until the bolt is tightened to lock the joint down and stop it from moving and what you are fully missing is just how much of the joint bolt sleeve is in contact with the mount above and below the slot.
Engine crankshaft bearings do not fit any god damn bolts. If you are going to try and use an example however flawed, at least get part of it right. The crankshaft bearings fit the crank and block journals. They are held in place with bearing caps. The bearing caps are held to the block with 2 or more bolts that operate in tension to provide clamping force ONLY. If you want to learn how some of that works, look up torque to yield fasteners and why you don't reuse them.
No slip critical connections use any fastener with any efficacy dependent on the relationship between bolt and hole size within reason. That just isn't how they work.
Just so you know, I've been playing this game of trying to teach folks how bolts work for at least 15 years, so fucking bring it.