Trail Welding Option

It's one of the best mods I've done to my Jeep. And being able to do trail repairs is great.

Great to hear. I’m also a big-time proponent of being prepared out in the backcountry. I dont feel like i can carry all the spares i would like in such a small rig, so i’ve got the mindset that bringing a minimalist mobile workshop might be the answer i’ve been looking for.
 
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And one final thought on the Premier over the Ready Welder: 110 AC. I carry a few corded power tools - and I never have to worry about having charged batteries.

Can i ask, what power tools do you bring?

I think a corded grinder would be a good idea if it would work. Not sure what else might be useful.
 
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Can i ask, what power tools do you bring?

I think a corded grinder would be a good idea if it would work. Not sure what else might be useful.

If you've got the space a small grinder & a drill. The 110V plug will run most power tools but not variable speed drills.
From their FAQ area of their website.

Is there any 110-volt tool the unit will NOT power?​

Any tool with a variable-speed motor will need to have the trigger pulled fully, the reason being that variable-speed switches are based on pulsating DC current; the Premier is based on a straight DC current. Therefore, it wants to travel through the variable-speed switch at full current. We do not recommend the use of this type of tool with the unit as it will eventually result in a burned-up trigger. The ONLY drill that we know of with a variable-speed trigger that will work with our unit and not burn out the trigger is the 3/8" or 1/2" Milwaukee Holeshooter.
 
Can i ask, what power tools do you bring?

I think a corded grinder would be a good idea if it would work. Not sure what else might be useful.

I carry a small grinder and a drill that I have modified to single speed. With that I carry a few cutting and flap discs, and a few bits. I prefer doing this as opposed to carrying battery powered stuff, as I don’t want to worry about the batteries being charged - and overall it is less bulky.

I also carry a couple pieces of angle and bar stock - which I have used many times in repairs.

I do get some strange looks when I pull out the cappuccino maker…

🙂
 
I carry a small grinder and a drill that I have modified to single speed. With that I carry a few cutting and flap discs, and a few bits. I prefer doing this as opposed to carrying battery powered stuff, as I don’t want to worry about the batteries being charged - and overall it is less bulky.

I also carry a couple pieces of angle and bar stock - which I have used many times in repairs.

I do get some strange looks when I pull out the cappuccino maker…

🙂

We'll be a hit since I've got that blender.... ;)
 
I carry a small grinder and a drill that I have modified to single speed. With that I carry a few cutting and flap discs, and a few bits. I prefer doing this as opposed to carrying battery powered stuff, as I don’t want to worry about the batteries being charged - and overall it is less bulky.

I also carry a couple pieces of angle and bar stock - which I have used many times in repairs.

I do get some strange looks when I pull out the cappuccino maker…

🙂

Thanks for the info! (And the laughs)
 
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Well, talked to a local shop - going to be getting a Part # TJ200 installed at the end of February/beginning of March. He's got one on his TJ and his YJ and loves what it provides. We talked about the 270amp option that's available, but his recommendation is that the $$$ squeeze wasn't worth the juice for what I'll be using it for which is basically simple trail welds and repairs, hobby type work around my house, and running a grinder or a blender :D at times. His are both 200 amp units and he's been really happy with their performance/penetration.

Just fyi, the estimate all-in is about $2300-2500, parts and labor, with them supplying everything and me just dropping the TJ off. Worth it, IMO, as someone who is using this rig as a vacation from the heavy mechanic work I've done on the last 6-8 rigs I've had.
 
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Well, talked to a local shop - going to be getting a Part # TJ200 installed at the end of February/beginning of March. He's got one on his TJ and his YJ and loves what it provides. We talked about the 270amp option that's available, but his recommendation is that the $$$ squeeze wasn't worth the juice for what I'll be using it for which is basically simple trail welds and repairs, hobby type work around my house, and running a grinder or a blender :D at times. His are both 200 amp units and he's been really happy with their performance/penetration.

Just fyi, the estimate all-in is about $2300-2500, parts and labor, with them supplying everything and me just dropping the TJ off. Worth it, IMO, as someone who is using this rig as a vacation from the heavy mechanic work I've done on the last 6-8 rigs I've had.

Keep us posted, I'm really interested in this mod
 
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Keep us posted, I'm really interested in this mod

As someone who has one believe me it's more than worth it. Like @NashvilleTJ I mounted my unit in my glove box due to a lack of room under the hood.

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Broke my trackbar bracket on the trail so had to do some repairs.

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I keep 6010 rod for use on the trail. I also have a Ready Welder for working on others rigs or if it's a part I can remove from mine. As has been mentioned before when using the Premier to power the Ready Welder you cannot weld on your own vehicle.
 
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6010 is probably good enough. 6011 Might be a better choice.

And I might have my numbers mixed up. Looking at their literature they say 6011, 6010, 6013 or 7018. I've got one of the smaller water tight tubes for rod storage I leave strapped to my rollcage.
 
6010 needs a higher voltage than 6011 so it might make the machine work a little harder. I know that 6011 out performs 6010 when welding through paint, rust or whatever crud you're unable to clean off, but I don't remember if that's on AC or reverse polarity. I'll have to get back to you on that.

Both are fast freeze & deep penetrating so they are both viable options
 
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6010 needs a higher voltage than 6011 so it might make the machine work a little harder. I know that 6011 out performs 6010 when welding through paint, rust or whatever crud you're unable to clean off, but I don't remember if that's on AC or reverse polarity. I'll have to get back to you on that.

Both are fast freeze & deep penetrating so they are both viable options

And as I said I might have them mixed up too. All my old rod I had to throw out so I'll have to buy some new rod when I finally get the Jeep running. And I'm not expert by any means... Being able to do trail repairs is a good thing.
 
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On the trail I used 6011, 6013, and 7018. 6013 was really my go to because its easy and smooth. Dirty stuff got 6011.

After a Rubicon trip fail because someone had a steering box come off the frame and no one had a welder, I built a welder when I got home.

120 amp Ford externally regulated alternator and a simple control box I made. The switch sent 12v to the field post on the alternator and that's it. Flip the switch, run up the RPM up until you get the voltage you want, and go to town. Higher the RPM the higher the voltage. Could easily get it over 120v if you really wanted to. Used it a ton mostly for other people and it was awesome.

2434onboardwelder006_med.jpg


2434onboardwelder004_med.jpg
 
On the trail I used 6011, 6013, and 7018. 6013 was really my go to because its easy and smooth. Dirty stuff got 6011.

After a Rubicon trip fail because someone had a steering box come off the frame and no one had a welder, I built a welder when I got home.

120 amp Ford externally regulated alternator and a simple control box I made. The switch sent 12v to the field post on the alternator and that's it. Flip the switch, run up the RPM up until you get the voltage you want, and go to town. Higher the RPM the higher the voltage. Could easily get it over 120v if you really wanted to. Used it a ton mostly for other people and it was awesome.

View attachment 498224

View attachment 498225

Building your own is pretty cool. Your control box is first rate.
 
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On the trail I used 6011, 6013, and 7018. 6013 was really my go to because its easy and smooth. Dirty stuff got 6011.

After a Rubicon trip fail because someone had a steering box come off the frame and no one had a welder, I built a welder when I got home.

120 amp Ford externally regulated alternator and a simple control box I made. The switch sent 12v to the field post on the alternator and that's it. Flip the switch, run up the RPM up until you get the voltage you want, and go to town. Higher the RPM the higher the voltage. Could easily get it over 120v if you really wanted to. Used it a ton mostly for other people and it was awesome.

View attachment 498224

View attachment 498225

And it most likely was 6011 I was using and not 6010 but it's been too long for my old mind to remember.

I'll agree with Nashville that it was cool you built your own. I can't imagine where I could fit a second alternator on my engine. However you have one having a welder for trail repairs is KEWL.
 
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Building your own is pretty cool. Your control box is first rate.

Was a stupid simple project I did in the late 90s. I had most everything and the room to do it.

Thank you. The lead connections are Lincoln and the gauge I got used from a surplus place. The box was a cut down OSHA pedal guard exactly like this one :D

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