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Mine leaked a bit. Same spot. Loosened up the mounting bolts and shifted the too as far rearward as it could go. This was a very small movement, but was enough to stop the leak. (Re-tightened bolts after rearward shift. I even have the seal pulled off the glass for about 4 inches on the passenger side. I think from OP not opening the tailgate far enough and dragging the seal against the spare tire.
 
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Mine leaked a bit. Same spot. Loosened up the mounting bolts and shifted the too as far rearward as it could go. This was a very small movement, but was enough to stop the leak. (Re-tightened bolts after rearward shift. I even have the seal pulled off the glass for about 4 inches on the passenger side. I think from OP not opening the tailgate far enough and dragging the seal against the spare tire.

This was the explanation I got that made the most sense besides yours.

ED14AEA6-A6FC-44B8-98CF-63AC123ECE79.png
 
Unrelated, but does anyone know if the rear (floor) square lip, just inside of the tailgate, is hollow; or does it cover some sort of pinch seam?
 
Sorry about posting earlier. I completely missed the fact that you had a hard top and thought everyone with a leaky trunk was commenting. I usually refrain from talking about my leaky trunk when it happens. Tends to be from eating too much at chalupas.
 
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Unbolt one side of the hardtop and make sure it's pushed in as close the tub rail as possible, then tighten that side and repeat on the other side. Also check to make sure the back window hinge bolts are tight. Another thought would be to remove the weather strip that's attached to the back of hard top that seals the back glass to the top off, clean the channel, and glue it back with some weatherstrip adhesive just to make sure you aren't getting any seepage along that channel.
 
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Unrelated, but does anyone know if the rear (floor) square lip, just inside of the tailgate, is hollow; or does it cover some sort of pinch seam?
Ask and ye shall see. The floor pan folds down and is spot welded along the outer face of the sheet metal that forms the hollow "box" lip for the tailgate.

20150705_183413.jpg

20150705_183521.jpg
 
Thanks. So not only is it hollow, but there's nothing underneath it except the open space of the cross member?
Or does that piece (thats folded down in your picture) create the bottom of the 'boxed' lip?

Sorry for the hijack.
 
There is a welded boxed cross member that runs under the rear edge of the floor pan. In the attached highly detailed CAD diagram the floor is black, the rear of the box that you see under the tailgate is orange, the front of the box (next to the gas tank) is red. Where it is spot welded is shown in grey.
floorwelds.jpg
 
Ive got a 03-06 top on my 2002. Another guy and I are talking about maybe it’s because of the fit
97-02 and 03-06 both fit exactly the same since there were no changes made to the top of the tub and the relationship between the windshield and tub. The only differences are the vents and how they moved.
 
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It isn't really possible to shatter the rear window by slamming the door.
It is when you have a 03 top on a 02 and it’s super sealed allowing no air to get out. Based on your reply I don’t think you read a good portion of the discussion/thread
 
It is when you have a 03 top on a 02 and it’s super sealed allowing no air to get out. Based on your reply I don’t think you read a good portion of the discussion/thread
I read and comprehend every word. It isn't possible for the air pressure build up from slamming a door to break the rear window. Not only did I read the thread, but I got to this one from the other one about weird owners. You aren't doing yourself any favors with the trim crap on top of the tail gate.

The leak needs to be carefully diagnosed and it isn't due to the 03-02 swap. You were given some good advice, follow some of it. Make sure the sides of the top are pushed in as far as they will go. Loosen the mount bolts and start there. Once that is done, go over the rear window fitment. Make sure that the glass is evenly fitted in the opening. You have slight bits of adjustment to even out the fit.
One area in particular to pay attention to is how the top of the gate contacts the lower window seal and trim. (with that other crap removed)
When that is done, take a dollar bill and open the window slightly, slide the bill in between the glass and the weather strip all the way around the window checking to see how the glass is compressing the rubber bulb. Of note, pay particular attention at the top. I've seen several where the top of the glass is sticking out slightly past the top and not compressing the weather strip. The hinges are slightly bent and it may be necessary to make some thin plastic spacers to move the glass towards the top. Failing that, you can pull the strip and slide a length of 14 gauge insulated electrical wire into the channel and reinstall it on the lip to space the weather strip out and seal against the glass.

Pay close attention to the lower edges of the molded corners on the ends of the weather strip. They seal the water groove at the bottom and they need to be tight to the lower corners. If they don't seal, water will run in at the corners.

Once you have done all of that, then it is time to ensure that the relationship of the top lip of the gate and the window channel/weather strip is correct. It may be necessary to loosen the tail gate hinges and latch and correct that relationship. (I work on lots of rigs, I see very few where the gate shuts correctly.)

The glass weather strip has thin molded section at each end that conform to the areas where the window channel clips mount for the soft top. Pay close attention to them and make sure they are contacting tightly have haven't been torn or deformed.

That and stop listening to bullshit on the internet about blowing up windows.
 
1. I did not put the rubber on the trunk door. It came that way.
2. It’s not about breaking the glass, it’s about less of a suction feeling when closing doors.
3. The advice given was good. Never said I wasnt going to do as suggested.
4. The fitment is good. Whats bad is the window bottom rubber seals.
5. Compressing the rubber bulb...?
6. “Pay close attention to the lower edges of the molded corners on the ends of the weather strip. They seal the water groove at the bottom and they need to be tight to the lower corners. If they don't seal, water will run in at the corners.” Correct. Which is what’s happening on the right side.
7. “Once you have done all of that, then it is time to ensure that the relationship of the top lip of the gate and the window channel/weather strip is correct. It may be necessary to loosen the tail gate hinges and latch and correct that relationship. (I work on lots of rigs, I see very few where the gate shuts correctly.” Gate? You mean top of trunk door? Lip... lip means the latch area? Wtf is a lip? They arnt correct because theres a leak. The rubber isnt tightly sealed to the door. That’s the prob.
8. Yes. We know this. That’s what the post is about. That’s where the leak is. The problem is the rubber bottom sections of the glass. That is why everyone in this thread talking about this area have great advice. Because that is where the leak is coming in from.
94CFAF4C-1043-4FF8-AA2D-7DF4700EA0D3.jpeg
 
1. I did not put the rubber on the trunk door. It came that way.
So? It isn't helping. It is pushing the lower weather strip in too far and cause deformation and other issues.
2. It’s not about breaking the glass, it’s about less of a suction feeling when closing doors.
You need to learn the difference between pressure and suction. It isn't suction.
3. The advice given was good. Never said I wasnt going to do as suggested.
You're still bitching about the 03-02 bullshit. That isn't the problem.
4. The fitment is good. Whats bad is the window bottom rubber seals.
That remains to be seen.
5. Compressing the rubber bulb...?
The window weather strip inside the glass that goes all the way around the upside down U of the rear opening consists of a molded U shape that fits over a lip that points to the rear. The U shape has a round molded bulb attached to it that is hollow. It compresses when you close the rear window. It needs to be checked for full contact by sliding something between it and the glass when the window is shut.
6. “Pay close attention to the lower edges of the molded corners on the ends of the weather strip. They seal the water groove at the bottom and they need to be tight to the lower corners. If they don't seal, water will run in at the corners.” Correct. Which is what’s happening on the right side.
I think you believe that, I don't think you fully understand. That gap indicated by the red arrow is at the end of the window weather strip that goes around the rear window opening. It needs to fully seated all the way down and the gap removed and perhaps sealed with a sealant.


weather strip gap.PNG

7. “Once you have done all of that, then it is time to ensure that the relationship of the top lip of the gate and the window channel/weather strip is correct. It may be necessary to loosen the tail gate hinges and latch and correct that relationship. (I work on lots of rigs, I see very few where the gate shuts correctly.” Gate? You mean top of trunk door? Lip... lip means the latch area? Wtf is a lip? They arnt correct because theres a leak. The rubber isnt tightly sealed to the door. That’s the prob.

The lip is what that goofy weather strip is stuck on. That is the top lip of the tail GATE. It is not a trunk door since the TJ does not have a trunk. In your case with the hard top, the two panels that seal the rear of the vehicle are the lift gate that goes up and the tail gate that swings out and to the right.
8. Yes. We know this. That’s what the post is about. That’s where the leak is. The problem is the rubber bottom sections of the glass. That is why everyone in this thread talking about this area have great advice. Because that is where the leak is coming in from.
View attachment 128338
The rubber sections are manipulated by the correct arrangement and relationship of all the bits that interact with each other. The best case scenario is to bring them all into their proper relationships first.
 
So? It isn't helping. It is pushing the lower weather strip in too far and cause deformation and other issues.

You need to learn the difference between pressure and suction. It isn't suction.

You're still bitching about the 03-02 bullshit. That isn't the problem.

That remains to be seen.

The window weather strip inside the glass that goes all the way around the upside down U of the rear opening consists of a molded U shape that fits over a lip that points to the rear. The U shape has a round molded bulb attached to it that is hollow. It compresses when you close the rear window. It needs to be checked for full contact by sliding something between it and the glass when the window is shut.

I think you believe that, I don't think you fully understand. That gap indicated by the red arrow is at the end of the window weather strip that goes around the rear window opening. It needs to fully seated all the way down and the gap removed and perhaps sealed with a sealant.


View attachment 128342


The lip is what that goofy weather strip is stuck on. That is the top lip of the tail GATE. It is not a trunk door since the TJ does not have a trunk. In your case with the hard top, the two panels that seal the rear of the vehicle are the lift gate that goes up and the tail gate that swings out and to the right.

The rubber sections are manipulated by the correct arrangement and relationship of all the bits that interact with each other. The best case scenario is to bring them all into their proper relationships first.
I find reading you quite difficult. Maybe you should have photographs or illustrations
 
So? It isn't helping. It is pushing the lower weather strip in too far and cause deformation and other issues.

You need to learn the difference between pressure and suction. It isn't suction.

You're still bitching about the 03-02 bullshit. That isn't the problem.

That remains to be seen.

The window weather strip inside the glass that goes all the way around the upside down U of the rear opening consists of a molded U shape that fits over a lip that points to the rear. The U shape has a round molded bulb attached to it that is hollow. It compresses when you close the rear window. It needs to be checked for full contact by sliding something between it and the glass when the window is shut.

I think you believe that, I don't think you fully understand. That gap indicated by the red arrow is at the end of the window weather strip that goes around the rear window opening. It needs to fully seated all the way down and the gap removed and perhaps sealed with a sealant.


View attachment 128342


The lip is what that goofy weather strip is stuck on. That is the top lip of the tail GATE. It is not a trunk door since the TJ does not have a trunk. In your case with the hard top, the two panels that seal the rear of the vehicle are the lift gate that goes up and the tail gate that swings out and to the right.

The rubber sections are manipulated by the correct arrangement and relationship of all the bits that interact with each other. The best case scenario is to bring them all into their proper relationships first.
If the rubber placed on the tail GATE DOOR THINGY LATCH was placed there what would it’s purpose be? My guess is to keep the window flush to the back stopping leakage. And if I were to remove it, it has already deformed the window rubber seal thingys. So if I remove it I’m just going to get more water that doesn’t make any sense. Furthermore I’m not adding any sealant. I would rather trade with a hardtop that actually goes to the vehicle.
 
If the rubber placed on the tail GATE DOOR THINGY LATCH was placed there what would it’s purpose be? My guess is to keep the window flush to the back stopping leakage. And if I were to remove it, it has already deformed the window rubber seal thingys. So if I remove it I’m just going to get more water that doesn’t make any sense
The rubber was put there by some fucking moron who didn't understand the problem and therefore lacked the wherewithal to solve the problem.
 
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