Two For One—A Go Fast TJ and J10 Build


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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

Wanted: cheap/bent JL/JT M220 Advantek Axle, PM me
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Also started fitting up my wire harness. I initially spent a day wrapping the harness with split loom as a temporary wrap to organize it a bit. Immediately had to tear it all off because nothing was fitting right, what a waste of time lol. Pretty much have everything where it needs to be now I think. It's pretty tight where the driver's side injectors branch out from the main harness on the firewall, but I don't want to cut and splice those anymore.
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Think I'm going to mount the computer to the driver's side inner fender when i get it put back in. Going to run my fuse and relay block inside the cab through the factory square hole where the in cab harness use to go. Made a little aluminum bracket to mount it just underneath the square hole on the inside.
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The dash is pretty stripped right now, lots of old hard plastic left, and surprisingly not a whole lot of room behind it with the way the factory air tubes come in to the cab.
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Getting there though, this harness has definitely been the 800lb gorilla on my back. Just gotta figure out the grounds, make some battery cables and figure out my ignition switch/ starter situation.
 
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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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Also scored this 4'x10' double sided pegboard on Craigslist for free. Looks like the frame was made out of random scrap pieces, weighs about 120lbs I think. Somehow managed to get it hung up on the wall by myself with just a floor jack and the factory TJ bottle jack, super sketchy though. Pretty sure most of my 4" construction screws hit the studs, didn't have much room to work with getting the pegboard frame to line up with the studs in the wall. Ended up with two vertical rows of screws on the left side about 2 feet apart, and one row on the right side edge every 6" and one hole row along the bottom every 6". It was holding it's own weight after that, then I took a piece of aluminum angle and screwed it to the bottom of the pegboard frame. Preload it up a bit with the bottle jack at each stud when I screwed the aluminum angle into the studs as well.

Probably not the right way to do it, but I'm not a woodworker and it was still on the wall a week later, so I'll call that a win lol

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B00mb00m

R&D Engineer Acme Co.
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man, devil is really in the details for engine swaps. Keep the work and updates coming, stoked to see this beast breath some fire.
 
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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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I couldn't possibly post updates on the truck without some cool new tools.

First off, helped one of my college buddies with an end of year project. Think his group is building an industrial blender or something. He needed a 1.625" and a 4" hole drilled in a big stainless tub. Told me the head machine shop teacher was going to ratchet strap it to their drill press, and his mentor told him just to drill it by hand... I said fuck that bring it over. Some perusing through the recycling yard turned up the perfect pieces. I round plate just the right diameter to fit in the tub and a big ass steel tube, for $30. Cut the tube to length, tack welded it to a piece of scrap and bolted it to the base of the Walker Turner. Welded the plate to the tube, drilled and tapped four 1/4-20 holes in the plate on a 3" bolt circle. Drilled some matching holes in the center of the tub. Slide tub over the fixture, bolt tub down, drill off center 1.625" first, then drill 4" hole on center removing the four bolt holes in the process with the slug.
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And voila
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The head machine shop teacher also told him he'd need a carbide hole saw to cut one hole in some 316 stainless... Idiot. Works for me though, was happy to help for free, but my buddy let me keep the two carbide tipped hole saws, about $175 worth, since the school paid for them and I actually helped him get it done. Score
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Also did some horse trading with a Bridgeport head, bought the head and a brand new 1.5hp single phase motor with a reversing drum switch for $325. Kind of regretted buying it by the time I got home, found a guy on facebook looking for bridgeport power feed parts. He didn't really wanna buy the head with cash, but what do you know he had a very nice 1940's Delta two speed wood/metal cutting bandsaw he was willing to trade straight across for the head. So I've got a badass bandsaw and a new electric motor to do something with. Score

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A pic of the 12" 2HP Queen City Grinder I bought a little while ago. Trying to rig up some dust collection system, not going so well yet. It was a 3 Phase grinder though, so I ended up deciding to buy a rotary phase converter. Found a 10hp Croman Converter, built locally by Croman, for sale second hand. It works great and should be able to run all of my lathes and stuff as well once I get everything in one shop.

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Might get some new wheels for the grinder, but I'll probably practice my dressing skills on these ones a bit. My hand for scale, this wheel is pretty worn, probably about 9-10"
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A very nice condition Kurt 6" vise for the Walker Turner. Took a while to find one for a decent price locally, but picked this up for $300 with hard jaws and only one apprentice mark, but its not on a precision surface so the vise is basically new still.

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Last but not least, the Roper Whitny Model 40 Punch. Finally tore it down, sandblasted everything and got it restored. There's still one piece I need to remake if I ever wanted to use shaped punches instead of round ones, but it works with round ones just fine right now. Need to make a stand for it to sit in, so far I've got a couple brand new punches and dies, 3/4" and 1". This punch is rated to punch a 5/8" hole through 5/8" steel plate. It can take up to a 1" punch and die, which it can push through 3/8" plate. This model is super hard to find, I've searched every day on ebay for the past year and a half and only seen one other one. It's been obsolete for a while now, but it's still so damn cool.

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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

Wanted: cheap/bent JL/JT M220 Advantek Axle, PM me
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man, devil is really in the details for engine swaps. Keep the work and updates coming, stoked to see this beast breath some fire.
Yeah this thing is going to start to nickel and dime me to death lol. Very glad I decided to swap the truck before the TJ, it's been a good learning experience. Fire coming soon I hope
 
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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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Well, I ordered some crimpers from Quick cable for the larger battery cables and stuff along with their connectors and terminals. Crimpers showed up in a few days, been waiting on the terminals for a week or two...

In the meantime, I picked up a new distraction. It's called an Oerlikon UB-2. Its a very rare Swiss machine, like a radial arm drill and a mill had a baby. It's about 1600 lbs, has a 3 Morse taper spindle, but with a drawbar so I can mill with it. Has a 2 speed motor in the end of the horizontal tube, 1.2hp/1.5hp motor feeding a 4 speed gear box on the head. It has a low rpm of 25 and a high of 2560. Also has power down feed in .002",.005", and .010" per rev with 6" of quill stroke.

The columns are 6.75" in diameter, the horizontal can spin 360* and the head can rotate 360* on the horizontal tube with 3 indexed locations and vertical down and horizontal left and right.

I need to replace the plug on the motor as it was hard plastic and is broken. It's missing the drawbar, so I'll have to make a new one, it uses a very ingenious double threaded setup to auto eject the taper when loosening it. Also planning on pulling the faceplate of the head off to inspect gears and give it a good cleaning before powering it up.

I'm going to use the 13" troyke X-Y table and Kurt vise for smaller milling of parts and stuff, but I think this machine will be about the perfect balance of milling and drilling capabilities for what I'll need at home. Should be super handy for larger parts, like axle assemblies and what not, overall it's just a super versatile machine, and was absolutely too cool for me to miss out on.

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Mike_H

Going my own way
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Well, I ordered some crimpers from Quick cable for the larger battery cables and stuff along with their connectors and terminals. Crimpers showed up in a few days, been waiting on the terminals for a week or two...

In the meantime, I picked up a new distraction. It's called an Oerlikon UB-2. Its a very rare Swiss machine, like a radial arm drill and a mill had a baby. It's about 1600 lbs, has a 3 Morse taper spindle, but with a drawbar so I can mill with it. Has a 2 speed motor in the end of the horizontal tube, 1.2hp/1.5hp motor feeding a 4 speed gear box on the head. It has a low rpm of 25 and a high of 2560. Also has power down feed in .002",.005", and .010" per rev with 6" of quill stroke.

The columns are 6.75" in diameter, the horizontal can spin 360* and the head can rotate 360* on the horizontal tube with 3 indexed locations and vertical down and horizontal left and right.

I need to replace the plug on the motor as it was hard plastic and is broken. It's missing the drawbar, so I'll have to make a new one, it uses a very ingenious double threaded setup to auto eject the taper when loosening it. Also planning on pulling the faceplate of the head off to inspect gears and give it a good cleaning before powering it up.

I'm going to use the 13" troyke X-Y table and Kurt vise for smaller milling of parts and stuff, but I think this machine will be about the perfect balance of milling and drilling capabilities for what I'll need at home. Should be super handy for larger parts, like axle assemblies and what not, overall it's just a super versatile machine, and was absolutely too cool for me to miss out on.

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That is a very cool machine.
 
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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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That is a very cool machine.
Yeah I'm real excited about it. Really want to get it running asap, but looking at some exploded diagrams and manuals in German, the inside of the head looks like a swiss clock, so I need to be careful

The guy I bought it from said he's heard of guys setting it up behind their lathe, then if you're turning a part you need a cross hole or bore in, just swing the arm around and do it with the part in the chuck on the lathe, basically a manual 4 axis lathe lol
 
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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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Well the TJ is throwing codes at me again... Gave it a long overdue bath and carpet cleaning, but that didn't seem to help, though I did find a surprise younger me left for future me. Made a bit too much shock tower clearance. Oops lol
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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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It threw a P0340 a few days ago, camshaft position sensor. Though it threw that code a month or more ago and I replaced it with a Napa Echlin sensor since the OEM mopar seems to be discontinued.

The P0340 went away after a few start ups, then the next day it threw it again with a P1391. Kept driving it for a day or two, no weird symptoms, drove like normal.

Then this morning on my way to work, started it up and got a few blocks down the road and it started missing pretty good. Was still running, but absolutely zero power. Coasted into a parking lot, got out and unplugged the cam sensor and plugged it back in. It didn't feel loose at all. Started back up fine and drove 20 minutes to work with no problems. Now I've got the p0340,p1391,p0353 and p0352.

Anyone have any thoughts? Tempted to try throwing another cam sensor at it, but I'd like to find a Mopar one if possible. Recently replaced plugs and 02 sensors with the correct ngk sensors, otherwise everything else is factory.
 

Nickgsjeep

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It threw a P0340 a few days ago, camshaft position sensor. Though it threw that code a month or more ago and I replaced it with a Napa Echlin sensor since the OEM mopar seems to be discontinued.

The P0340 went away after a few start ups, then the next day it threw it again with a P1391. Kept driving it for a day or two, no weird symptoms, drove like normal.

Then this morning on my way to work, started it up and got a few blocks down the road and it started missing pretty good. Was still running, but absolutely zero power. Coasted into a parking lot, got out and unplugged the cam sensor and plugged it back in. It didn't feel loose at all. Started back up fine and drove 20 minutes to work with no problems. Now I've got the p0340,p1391,p0353 and p0352.

Anyone have any thoughts? Tempted to try throwing another cam sensor at it, but I'd like to find a Mopar one if possible. Recently replaced plugs and 02 sensors with the correct ngk sensors, otherwise everything else is factory.
Try the Crankshaft position sensor, I documented my chase of those codes on my build thread. Short of it is the crankshaft position sensor can throw camshaft codes. Also the aftermarket camshaft position sensors are temp sensitive, has it been cold on startup or are you getting the codes driving?
 
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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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Try the Crankshaft position sensor, I documented my chase of those codes on my build thread. Short of it is the crankshaft position sensor can throw camshaft codes
Interesting, I had seen that mentioned. Is there any way to test it to see if it's bad, or am I stuck buying a new one for around $100? At least it looks like the Mopar one is available still
 

Nickgsjeep

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Interesting, I had seen that mentioned. Is there any way to test it to see if it's bad, or am I stuck buying a new one for around $100? At least it looks like the Mopar one is available still
I got a Mopar one for $40 I think on Amazon ut who knows if it’s legit. @mrblaine may know how to test it but I do not know how to verify without replacing
 
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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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Thanks for the help, should be here next week. Hopefully that does the trick and I can get home tonight too
 
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