Two For One—A Go Fast TJ and J10 Build


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Trevlaw

Trevlaw

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Do you have any buddies close by with the same year jeep?
Don't think so. Grandpa used to have a 98 but it burnt up last summer.

Not a big deal, I'm pushing 150k miles so I'm expecting stuff to start going bad. Still on factory unit bearings though lol
 
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Nickgsjeep

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Don't think so. Grandpa used to have a 98 but it burnt up last summer.

Not a big deal, I'm pushing 150k miles so I'm expecting stuff to start going bad. Still on factory unit bearings though lol
Also with all those codes it’s a good idea (if you haven’t done so already) to chase all the wires. As you know over time the sheathing can rub through and the wiring can ground out causing those codes. The firewall behind the head and against the dipstick are known areas but check everything
 
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Trevlaw

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Also with all those codes it’s a good idea (if you haven’t done so already) to chase all the wires. As you know over time the sheathing can rub through and the wiring can ground out causing those codes. The firewall behind the head and against the dipstick are known areas but check everything
Yeah I still need to double check the wiring. Wermopar and most everywhere else is backordered on the sensor for several weeks. Just so happens the dealer down the street has one in stock... For $166 :/

Probably going to try and pick it up during lunch today, but that $30 napa sensor is tempting
 
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Trevlaw

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Well, picked up the OEM Mopar crankshaft position sensor. Just got it installed, that things a pain in the ass to get to with the tummy tuck. Started up fine with the new one, time will tell.

Kinda weird, with the old one in it started up an ran fine leaving for lunch for lunch and leaving work the last two days. Cold engine, but sitting out in the sun all day. But both of the last two mornings, start it up just fine around 5:30am and maybe 50* outside. Within a couple blocks from home it would start misfiring, studdering and it even died yesterday. Start it back up and it ran fine all the way to work. Almost seems like the colder temps were affecting it somehow.

For anyone's future reference, the little cardboard spacer glued to the end of the sensor is about .032" if anyone needs to reuse their old sensor
 
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Trevlaw

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Well that didn't take very long. Took a short drive across town last night when it had cooled down outside and it started missing a bit again, threw a P0340 again.

Probably gonna throw another cam sensor at it to see if it's just the last one having gone bad already. Didn't see any obvious issues with the wiring harness but I didn't dive too deep into it
 

Nickgsjeep

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Well that didn't take very long. Took a short drive across town last night when it had cooled down outside and it started missing a bit again, threw a P0340 again.

Probably gonna throw another cam sensor at it to see if it's just the last one having gone bad already. Didn't see any obvious issues with the wiring harness but I didn't dive too deep into it
Yes definitely check the wiring and if it’s starting up fine then throwing the code when driving I don’t suspect a temp issue, at least not one having to do with cold temps. Did you bump the OPDA at all shifting it’s position?

you’re problem could very well be different than mine being yours is an ‘04 and mine is an ‘06, but the cold temps would not allow my jeep to start without very long cranks. The aftermarket camshaft position sensor would only allow my jeep to start normally when it was warm.
 
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Trevlaw

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Yes definitely check the wiring and if it’s starting up fine then throwing the code when driving I don’t suspect a temp issue, at least not one having to do with cold temps. Did you bump the OPDA at all shifting it’s position?

you’re problem could very well be different than mine being yours is an ‘04 and mine is an ‘06, but the cold temps would not allow my jeep to start without very long cranks. The aftermarket camshaft position sensor would only allow my jeep to start normally when it was warm.
Mines an 02, so I just have the camshaft synchronizer assembly, not the OPDA.

I think the temp thing has to be just a coincidence, just a very odd one as I can't think of how the ambient outside temperature could affect anything really.

I have originally replaced the whole cam synchronizer assembly with a Napa part a long time ago, probably 80k miles ago as the factory one was clicking or something and my dad thought it was bad, though the new one clicked too. I was only 16 at the time so it's a bit fuzzy.

The new sensor is only like $30, so I'm just gonna try that before tearing into the harness.
 
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Trevlaw

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Well the camshaft sensor seems to have done the trick, got a couple hundred miles on it with zero problems. Hopefully the last napa one that failed was a dud, otherwise I'm gonna be buying these in 12 packs

Also picked up some more shelving for the shop, I got two of these 5ft side Gorilla Shelves for $150, don't have room for the second one yet though. Helped make some more room though, got it full of axle parts and a bunch of other stuff that was on the floor. Got the F350 axle up against the wall and out of the way now.

Keeping this place clean and organized is a never ending battle

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Trevlaw

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Also started trying to fix up my mag drill a bit. Got a great deal on a brand new Milwaukee drill motor, the 1 1/4" 4297-1. It's a two speed, 250 and 500rpm, motor with a removable internal sleeve that has a number 3 Morse taper. So I'll be able to use all of my taper shank drills and if also came with an annular cutter arbor that takes a 3/4" Weldon shank and has a coolant inducer ring.

The back of the mag drill had a threaded stud, that apparently was casting into the aluminum base. The stud was bent when I bought it and not useable, but it's supposed to have a long nut or something to thread down into contact with whatever you're drilling and prevent the magnet from lifting.

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Had to get a little creative to get it out. Cut the stud off flush. Hung my vise half way off the table, clamped it down and used the magnet on the bottom of the vise. The table didn't move up far enough, but luckily I had two big 3/4" chucks, one with a 3/4" shank arbor. Little sketchy looking but it worked really well to drill the 1/4" pilot hole

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After that I drilled it out with an extra long 5/8" taper shank drill directly in the spindle that I didn't get a pic of. Just undersize of the stud, was able to peel out the leftovers of the stud.

Then I used a 2MT to 3MT adapter to use a 13/16" 3MT taper shank drill to drill out the hole larger, being careful not to break through the outside of the handle.

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Then back to the chuck in a chuck to get my 7/8-14 tap started straight in the hole

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And the final result. Very happy with how if came out, just a few other pieces left to make and I'll have a badass mag drill again

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Bud125

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Well the camshaft sensor seems to have done the trick, got a couple hundred miles on it with zero problems. Hopefully the last napa one that failed was a dud, otherwise I'm gonna be buying these in 12 packs

Also picked up some more shelving for the shop, I got two of these 5ft side Gorilla Shelves for $150, don't have room for the second one yet though. Helped make some more room though, got it full of axle parts and a bunch of other stuff that was on the floor. Got the F350 axle up against the wall and out of the way now.

Keeping this place clean and organized is a never ending battle

View attachment 265403
View attachment 265402
Glad to see you got the synchronizer issue sorted, I installed the same NAPA part on my 04 due to the old one clicking loudly and it has been quiet and held up for the last couple of thousand miles.
 
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Trevlaw

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Glad to see you got the synchronizer issue sorted, I installed the same NAPA part on my 04 due to the old one clicking loudly and it has been quiet and held up for the last couple of thousand miles.
Yeah I had replaced the entire assembly a long time ago with a Napa part, but I kind of remember it being a different line than the Echlin electrical parts. Hopefully the last sensor was just a dud.
 
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NashvilleTJ

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Hey Trevor - late to the party but now in for the ride. Shop looks great, and I love all the cool machines.

I especially love your light-weight, light-duty welding table. 😉Man, I thought mine was heavy….
 
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Trevlaw

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Hey Trevor - late to the party but now in for the ride. Shop looks great, and I love all the cool machines.

I especially love your light-weight, light-duty welding table. 😉Man, I thought mine was heavy….
Hey, glad you're caught up. I think I'm nearly at capacity until I get a bigger shop, but there seems to always be something cool I didn't know existed lol.

The welding table will be getting a bit lighter soon, once I get the new motor on my mag drill and can use taper shank drills I'll be drilling out my grid of 5/8" holes in it. It rolls around pretty good on those big casters.

Actually just got four more 6" solid steel and cast iron casters, all four of them for $50 total
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Going to make a rolling base that I can use to move the Oerlikon around with
 
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Trevlaw

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Curious if anyone here can help me. Working on getting my horizontal mill cleaned up and running. The last piece to the puzzle is the electric gear motor that it came with.

It's a single phase, 1/2hp 1725rpm motor with a 10:1 gear box on the end of it. I almost plugged it in to see if it'd work, but I noticed one of the wires isn't connected to anything and I have no idea what's up with the wiring on it.

I think there's two resistors, a capacitor, and some metal container with flammable liquid...? If anyone could provide insight on where the disconnected wire goes, and how to not electrocute myself?
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jesseshoots

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Not sure what it actually is, but is has a capacitance rating on there which leads me to believe that it acts (in part at least) as a capacitor.
 
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Trevlaw

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Not sure what it actually is, but is has a capacitance rating on there which leads me to believe that it acts (in part at least) as a capacitor.
I took it by an electric motor shop yesterday, the guy basically said it was a basket case and that I should probably just buy a new one. He did tell me what the parts are though, the round cylinder is the start capacitor and the canteen shaped one is the run capacitor. It's got to 15ohm resistors and the red coil wire is some type of relay that cuts out the start capacitor and switches to the run capacitor.

Started looking into different types of start relays, and mine looks the most like a current relay with a coil of wire and spring loaded contacts. Noticed my old broken one has a very faint "klixon" molded into the plastic. A little searching and I found a klixon 4cr that looks very similar and has the same markings on the the terminals. Found one on eBay, should be here next week

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jesseshoots

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I took it by an electric motor shop yesterday, the guy basically said it was a basket case and that I should probably just buy a new one. He did tell me what the parts are though, the round cylinder is the start capacitor and the canteen shaped one is the run capacitor. It's got to 15ohm resistors and the red coil wire is some type of relay that cuts out the start capacitor and switches to the run capacitor.

Started looking into different types of start relays, and mine looks the most like a current relay with a coil of wire and spring loaded contacts. Noticed my old broken one has a very faint "klixon" molded into the plastic. A little searching and I found a klixon 4cr that looks very similar and has the same markings on the the terminals. Found one on eBay, should be here next week

View attachment 266821
That's awesome they helped you out. You could probably find updated run/start capacitors at an HVAC shop. Fortunately you know the voltage of the motor and the other specs are outlined on the capacitors.
 
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Trevlaw

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That's awesome they helped you out. You could probably find updated run/start capacitors at an HVAC shop. Fortunately you know the voltage of the motor and the other specs are outlined on the capacitors.
Yeah, I'm going to try just replacing the current relay and see if any magic smoke comes out, but the rest shouldn't be too hard to replace if needed.
 
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Trevlaw

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Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend. Was planning to change the trans filter and flush the fluid in the TJ and do both diffs. I had changed the filter about 5k miles ago, but the fluid was pretty brown and the cork/rubber gasket was leaking on me, for some reason napa stopped carrying the 100% rubber gaskets that I never had an issue with.

Figured I couldn't go wrong with a lubelocker for the pan. Changed the filter, flushed the fluid and put everything back together just to see a puddle on the ground. The Lubelocker didn't even try to seal, leaking like a sieve, stupid POS. So after an hour drive to the dealer and back and another $30 for the rubber coated steel gasket I got to do the whole job over again minus the flush.

Didn't get around to the diffs, the damn 8.8 leaks in so many places I'd be surprised if it's still got any oil lol
 
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Trevlaw

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Started working on the shifter for the 4l60e in the truck. Need to get it mounted so I can finalize the wiring going to my TCC brake switch and the NSS. I ended up going with the winters standard shifter with the added NSS and reverse light switch.

With the throw on the shifter I need to angle it back towards me about 45* to keep the shift lever out of the dash. So the standard winters console is out, going to fab one out of some 16 gauge. The J10 actually has a removable trans tunnel piece, it looked like someone had beat up the hole for the old manual shifter and I didn't really want to build around the odd shaped surface. So I cut a rough rectangle hole in it and pulled it out. Bedliner on the inside and grimy oil on the outside.
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A trip to the car wash and some time in the sandblaster and it's good as new. It's in surprisingly good shape considering I'm pretty sure the rest of the floor is made from road signs lol

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Cut out a shaped a piece of 14 gauge to fill the hole and give the shifter console a nice flat base to attach too. I got the fit up pretty good, but my sheet metal welding skills are still a bit lackluster. Not quite fully welded yet, lots of mig Tig tacks though. Fairly happy with it so far, the grinder should help the looks of the welds a bit. Going to use this as a test piece for a paint color I've been considering for the truck, curious how well the sandblasted finish will look with just a rattle can paint job

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