U-joint exploded and left me stranded

Daniel.Lee

Daniel.Lee

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2018
Messages
62
Location
Cupertino, CA
So there I was, driving down 101N to San Francisco to have dinner with my girlfriend. I started getting alot of vibration but figured it might've just been my bushings somewhere. I got to the city right in the heart of the Tenderloin and was stopped at a red light. Light turns green, I put my vehicle into 1st gear, gave it some throttle, released the clutch, and BOOM, I hear a loud snap. I freak out and IMMEDIATELY let my foot off the gas and let the momentum take me to the curb. I got out and looked under the vehicle and I see my rear driveshaft dangling from the transfer case. The U-Joint between the driveshaft and rear diff had exploded and the yoke straps are toast.

Anyway, I pay $250 and 4 hours of my life for a tow to the nearest mechanic and left it there overnight as it was 1am at this point. The next morning I call the mechanic and long story short he replaces the U-Joint and tells me there is still some play between the U-Joint and the yoke. I inspected the U-Joint at the front diff and there is absolutely no play so I'm thinking something still needs to be addressed.

My question is, how do you guys get rid of this play? It's leading to a ton of vibration and I'm worried that the U-Joint will grenade again... I'm deathly afraid to drive my car as I've heard horror stories of driveshafts popping out of the yoke at highway speeds, ripping through brake lines, and puncturing holes through the floor of the car. I ordered a new yoke and straps and I'm hoping this addresses the play/chatter of the U-Joint/Yoke interface. The yoke looks like it's made from forged steel. How often do they lose tolerance and fall out of spec? Am I even tackling the issue correctly?

Thanks!

Dan

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TJ_2000 said:
For future reference. You could’ve removed the rear driveshaft, put it in 4high and continued on.
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Yeah I tried to do that but the driveshaft was stuck and I couldn't slip it off. I gave it all my might but it didn't budge! I needed a hammer or something..or I just need to hit the gym. :unsure:
 
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TJ_2000 said:
SYE and a Double Cardan drive shaft.
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I've got one of them super short SYE's from JB Conversions. Double Cardan drive shaft seems like a nice possibility.

Do you have any play at your yoke - UJoint interface, though? I want to address the play, assess the vibrations, and from there decide on whether to go the double cardan shaft route.
 
Daniel.Lee said:
I've got one of them super short SYE's from JB Conversions. Double Cardan drive shaft seems like a nice possibility.

Do you have any play at your yoke - UJoint interface, though? I want to address the play, assess the vibrations, and from there decide on whether to go the double cardan shaft route.
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Do you have a JB SS SYE and no DC driveshaft? Where does the slip in the driveshaft come from then? How does the driveshaft change lengths when you hit a bump? Could you post a photo of your setup?
 
It appears your rear pinion angle is too high, it should be pointed directly up the driveshaft and at the CV joint.

And is that a destroyed zerk fitting I see on the busted u-joint? If so has that u-joint been greased regularly? It almost looks like that u-joint failed from a lack of grease and/or perhaps vibrations from the rear pinion angle being too high.

When you have that driveshaft repaired or if you replace it, use Spicer 5-1310x u-joints. The 5-1310x is a sealed u-joint that doesn't need greasing, it is far more durable and stronger than the type of u-joint with a zerk screwed into the body. If greasable u-joints aren't regularly greased they're not long for this earth. I switched to all sealed driveshaft u-joints years ago, I'll never go back to PITA greasable u-joints.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
It appears your rear pinion angle is too high, it should be pointed directly up the driveshaft and at the CV joint.

And is that a destroyed zerk fitting I see on the busted u-joint? If so has that u-joint been greased regularly? It almost looks like that u-joint failed either from a lack of grease or perhaps vibrations from the rear pinion angle being too high.

When you have that driveshaft repaired or if you replace it, use Spicer 5-1310x u-joints. The 5-1310x is a sealed u-joint that doesn't need greasing, it is far more durable and stronger than the type of u-joint with a zerk screwed into the body. If greasable u-joints aren't regularly greased they're not long for this earth. I switched to all sealed driveshaft u-joints years ago, I'll never go back to PITA greasable u-joints.
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Jerry, that is certainly a destroyed zerk fitting you're seeing. A co-worker of mine just told me about the non-greasable u-joints on Friday and I ordered one immediately.

I'll have to see if replacing the yoke and u-joint gets rid of the chatter. As far as the pinion angle goes, is this a pretty straightforward job?
 
Daniel.Lee said:
Anyway, I pay $250 and 4 hours of my life for a tow to the nearest mechanic and left it there overnight as it was 1am at this point.

View attachment 82824
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I know it's a little late, but this is why I recommend AAA, the gold gets 4 100 mile tows a year for free. I towed my vehicle exactly 106 miles to have my blown pinion shim looked at for no additional cost.
 
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MaloStapalo said:
I know it's a little late, but this is why I recommend AAA, the gold gets 4 100 mile tows a year for free. I towed my vehicle exactly 106 miles to have my blown pinion shim looked at for no additional cost.
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:) I totally went straight to AAA the next day and bought the premier package hahaha. I daily my TJ and it is my only vehicle. I drive 500+ miles roundtrip to the National Guard armory once a month and also drive about 20 miles roundtrip everyday on the highway for my full-time job. I don't know what I was thinking buying a 21 year old vehicle and NOT purchasing AAA along with it. Thanks for the suggestion though!
 
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