U-Joint Strap Bolts Stripped

odoyle

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Jun 20, 2019
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Denver, CO
Any recommendations on how best to remove stripped bolts on the u-joint strap? It's too tight to fit a socket or drill out, I'm thinking I may need to weld something on, but these bolts are kind of small to do that. These are on my front driveshaft, I just pulled the t-case to install an SYE and it would be much easier without the front driveshaft still connected ;)
100430
 
Grab onto them with a pear of smaller vice-grips as best you can and try to het them to come loose that way. If you're lucky, you'll be able to get them finger loose where you can get the rest of them out by hand.

Spray them with Kroil or Liquid Wrench first, that will help tremendously.
 
I know you said you can't fit a socket in there, but if you can find one of these in the correct size for the bolt head, you might have room by using a wrench on the hex part. I have a Craftsman set of these and they have worked well the 5-6 times I've used them on other bolts over the years. There are other brands available too.
spin_prod_207242301.jpg
 
Drill a hole through the side of the bolt head and use a punch/drift to loosen it.
 
Any recommendations on how best to remove stripped bolts on the u-joint strap? It's too tight to fit a socket or drill out, I'm thinking I may need to weld something on, but these bolts are kind of small to do that. These are on my front driveshaft, I just pulled the t-case to install an SYE and it would be much easier without the front driveshaft still connected ;)
View attachment 100430
Get a 6 point wrench and use it. You only knocked a small bit of the corner off from using a 12 point. Stop doing that.
 
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I just went through the same thing on the rear DS, after removing the skid plate I was able to get one loose with vice grips but the other would not budge, ended up grinding the head of with a die grinder and carbide bit. Was a royal pain in the ass but it worked.
 
I've got a set of (cheap) combination wrenches that have small extended pieces so the box end grips the middle of the flat on the bolt head instead of the corner like most box wrenches. They work great for circumstances like this. I see them in most big box stores. Sometimes a metric wrench is close enough to be persuaded onto the head.
It took me 5 different wrenches to find 1 that fit over the door hinge nuts that didnt chew up the paint. Try every socket and wrench you have in that size. They are all a hair different.
 
I've got a set of (cheap) combination wrenches that have small extended pieces so the box end grips the middle of the flat on the bolt head instead of the corner like most box wrenches. They work great for circumstances like this. I see them in most big box stores. Sometimes a metric wrench is close enough to be persuaded onto the head.
It took me 5 different wrenches to find 1 that fit over the door hinge nuts that didnt chew up the paint. Try every socket and wrench you have in that size. They are all a hair different.
Those particular flange head bolts are 5/16 or 8mm so the only thing that really matters is the use of a 6 point driver, flank drive is a plus, 6 point is mandatory.
 
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I've used 6pt sockets pretty much exclusively for years. I dont even keep 12pt in my primary tool chest. I forget that other people still use them as a 1st option.
 
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