Unlevel my lift kit

My bags have been run empty for years without a problem. I even have them connected to an open bleed valve in the cab that I can hear hiss if I hit a large enough bump.

Regarding the springs, the first step is to confirm that they are providing the desired ride height at the Jeep's normal weight. A 100lbs of additional cargo (as described) should not be causing the rear to sink more than a fraction of an inch.

If the springs are inadequate to begin with, bags are not the immediate solution.
Since purchasing, approx how many times have you been thankful for the bags
 
Since purchasing, approx how many times have you been thankful for the bags

Next to none. I thought I would use them far more than I have over the last 5 years. I am wanting to change the rear to Currie bump stops, which means the bags might come out entirely rather than try to make them work with non stock bump stops.
 
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Next to none. I thought I would use them far more than I have over the last 5 years. I am wanting to change the rear to Currie bump stops, which means the bags might come out entirely rather than try to make them work with non stock bump stops.
I figured as much. Originally I was super excited about getting bags to keep the Jeep level (my loads change pretty extremely, normal use is completely empty) but after seeing LJ springs, it isn’t gonna be a big deal IMO
 
I figured as much. Originally I was super excited about getting bags to keep the Jeep level (my loads change pretty extremely, normal use is completely empty) but after seeing LJ springs, it isn’t gonna be a big deal IMO

I go back to the 100lbs of cargo being comparable to a full tank of gas. There isn't (shouldn't be) much change. When mine is loaded with camping gear, is isn't hundreds of pounds worth of stuff either. The Jeep even has Currie springs, which are a lighter rate than most 4" lift springs.

My old carrier and bumper had a much more dramatic effect on the rear because it hung so far out behind the axle.
 
I go back to the 100lbs of cargo being comparable to a full tank of gas. There isn't (shouldn't be) much change. When mine is loaded with camping gear, is isn't hundreds of pounds worth of stuff either. The Jeep even has Currie springs, which are a lighter rate than most 4" lift springs.

My old carrier and bumper had a much more dramatic effect on the rear because it hung so far out behind the axle.
One of the many reason I got rid of the Jerry can Or fab
 
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There is a more complete list out there that has the 4in+ springs on it, but I can't find it right now...


Your help is definitely appreciated. I really want the 4" springs to restore the factory "rake," to borrow a biker term. When and if you can find that page, please send it to me. Thank you to everyone who has replied to this thread, but my main goal is to "Unlevel my lift kit." A level Jeep looks cool, but I do too many different things with mine to maintain that look. I'd rather it have it look like a shackled up GTO 95% of the time than a Gremlin loaded up with concrete blocks 5% of the time. Did I mention I hate the "Squaty Pottie" look? BTW, did anyone get the AMC reference? How I'd love to have an old Eagle station wagon...wonder if anyone makes a lift kit for those lol.
 
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Jumping from a 2" to 4" isn't as easy as just swapping springs.

You still haven't confirmed what your existing springs are actually providing for a ride height.
This! Just take a tape measure and tell us how long the springs are in the rear - we can then tell you how much lift height you have and what you should shoot for.
 
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most rigs don't loose the rake by adding lift.......some go to the extent of adding extra up front to compensate for this. your springs if matched and not tired should hold this stance.

meaning a new +2" should restore this if the rears are shot. reaching for a +4" is gonna open a whole can of worms your may not be prepared for.
 
This! Just take a tape measure and tell us how long the springs are in the rear - we can then tell you how much lift height you have and what you should shoot for.
This! Just take a tape measure and tell us how long the springs are in the rear - we can then tell you how much lift height you have and what you should shoot for.

Sorry. I work 10 hour days and needed a day off to do the work. On level ground with no load the rear springs are 8" in front, 9 1/2" in the back. Front springs are 14" with a 3/4" rubber spacer on top of them. See pics.

KIMG0347[1].webp


KIMG0369[1].webp
 
Sorry. I work 10 hour days and needed a day off to do the work. On level ground with no load the rear springs are 8" in front, 9 1/2" in the back. Front springs are 14" with a 3/4" rubber spacer on top of them. See pics.

View attachment 143420

View attachment 143421
Nice to see you got some pics! Only problem - we need the while loaded (tires on and full weight. Wish you had that info before pulling it all off.
 
Nice to see you got some pics! Only problem - we need the while loaded (tires on and full weight. Wish you had that info before pulling it all off.

The axles are on jack stands. That will work.

That's a 2" lift up front and about 3/4" lift in the back. No wonder your Jeep has the Tennessee Tilt going on.
 
most rigs don't loose the rake by adding lift.......some go to the extent of adding extra up front to compensate for this. your springs if matched and not tired should hold this stance.

meaning a new +2" should restore this if the rears are shot. reaching for a +4" is gonna open a whole can of worms your may not be prepared for.

Yeah...longer control arms, bump stops, shocks and drive shaft. I get it. I already installed longer shocks in preparation for it. Here are pics of the work I was telling buildbreakrepeat about. I put a level on the studs before
KIMG0365[1].JPG
and after tying the mason twine. I can show closeups of the bubbles if necessary. The pictures will show that when the axles are level, the body is level. Perhaps the 3/4" spacer on top of the front springs is what you are referring to.
most rigs don't loose the rake by adding lift.......some go to the extent of adding extra up front to compensate for this. your springs if matched and not tired should hold this stance.

meaning a new +2" should restore this if the rears are shot. reaching for a +4" is gonna open a whole can of worms your may not be prepared for.

KIMG0354[1].webp


KIMG0355[1].webp


KIMG0365[1].webp
 
And you may be in luck. I have some rear OME 942's, used of course, you can have for the cost of shipping.

Wow! You guys are amazing. I may have just discovered a bigger time sponge than Facepage. Ha Ha! bobthetj03, I am VERY interested in your offer. Not to look a gift horse in the mouth, but free sounds too good to be true. Did you upgrade? Are they "tired?" If they're good springs, box 'em up and ship 'em! Just send me the price and your address, I'll send you mine.