Be sure to use heat sink compound. One dab, and you'll have it spread everywhere on the Jeep!
Upgrading the sound system on your Jeep Wrangler TJ
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Be sure to use heat sink compound. One dab, and you'll have it spread everywhere on the Jeep!
Google failed me miserably:
I found a website for a brick & mortar (I think) shop in California that sells BLAM and other stuff: https://www.srcartunes.com/blam-relax-130-rc
Lately I've been thinking I may just go with the "marine certified" Polk Audio DB line for fronts & rear pods.
Haha...try this one. This is unreal German audio, but not very known.
https://www.msc-america.com/
For those interested in BLAM, here is a shop to speak to. If anyone wants a direct contact DM me. Don, the owner, is one of the most stand-up guys out there, and will give you honest feedback, no upselling, and his work is meticulous.
Years back, when our forum leader was modding his TJ every 15 seconds, @Chris purchased from this shop and had good results. He can also act as a reference.
https://unexpectedcreations.com/
Regardless of whether it fits (and, I think it does), this looks like a bad place for an amp. I'm putting in a double-DIN screen with a single-DIN mount (upper) and the amp could sit behind the bottom of the screen... but there's very little room for it to breathe back there.
This picture makes the area look cavernous... but it's pretty tight.
I am designing a 3D-printed mount for under the steering column, and I was hoping not to have to use it for an amp so there's more room for future expansion. I'll have my 12V distribution block on there, and eventually some relays. I was thinking if I ever build a sub enclosure for under the rear seat to replace the Kicker HS10 I'm putting in, I'd use the under-column spot for a sub amp. Now it'll be taken up by this 4-channel amp. Oh well.
This picture makes the area look cavernous... but it's pretty tight.
I am designing a 3D-printed mount for under the steering column, and I was hoping not to have to use it for an amp so there's more room for future expansion. I'll have my 12V distribution block on there, and eventually some relays. I was thinking if I ever build a sub enclosure for under the rear seat to replace the Kicker HS10 I'm putting in, I'd use the under-column spot for a sub amp. Now it'll be taken up by this 4-channel amp. Oh well.
No pics, but I installed a Kicker Key200.4 upside down on a simple bracket underneath the passenger air bag. The amp doesn't interfere with the glovebox or fuse block. Not sure which amp you have, but perhaps it might fit there?
Like right here where the green box is?
That's interesting. Now how difficult do I want to make this on myself, since I just started printing my steering column mount...
EDIT: I'm going to stick with the current plan. I like this spot, but if I keep making brackets I'm not going to get to my installation. If I decide to come back to this spot for a later installation, though... those two bolts are 8mm (didn't check thread) and measure 99.5mm on center.
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Yes, that's the spot. I made a simple "L" shaped bracket from a piece of ~1/8" scrap aluminum and attached it to the two studs on the firewall. The HU-AMP connections are short and easily run. The power and ground to the battery share the penetration behind the AC drier.
now with pic. Glovebox was removed to show this view.
Just posted this to my build thread:
Going to try to get this sub mounted into the rear seat bottom.
Going to try to get this sub mounted into the rear seat bottom.
If you've used the Metra dash kit to install a double-DIN Sony head unit... how in the hell did you fit it up? I've got it all wired up and tested, wires dressed, and I can't get the head unit far enough into the dash for the trim to sit correctly. I got both from Crutchfield, so I'm going to call them when they open up... but I figured I'd ask in the meantime if this gave anyone else a headache.
On the plus side... there's a lot of wiring back there, and I didn't know if it would all pack in behind the head unit... but it fits just fine. I've got the HDMI and USB cables, mic cable, head unit power harness, low-level output harness, AM/FM and GPS antennas. I'm probably going to stick the GPS antenna on top of the vents under the dash tray. I don't want to see it.
EDIT: I got off the phone with Crutchfield maybe an hour ago. This bracket isn't going to cut it. The support rep was helpful and walked me through some modification steps, but it left the brackets with less meat than I'm comfortable with.
3D printer to the rescue:
On the plus side... there's a lot of wiring back there, and I didn't know if it would all pack in behind the head unit... but it fits just fine. I've got the HDMI and USB cables, mic cable, head unit power harness, low-level output harness, AM/FM and GPS antennas. I'm probably going to stick the GPS antenna on top of the vents under the dash tray. I don't want to see it.
EDIT: I got off the phone with Crutchfield maybe an hour ago. This bracket isn't going to cut it. The support rep was helpful and walked me through some modification steps, but it left the brackets with less meat than I'm comfortable with.
3D printer to the rescue:
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I was scavenging at my local salvage yard last week and I saw this mod. It's an option, I guess:
Adding the Key 200.4 really reinforced the need for bass. A Rockford Fosgate P500-12p popped up on Marketplace, with bass knob and plug, for $150. Grease marks are sticky velcro residue from the previous owner. The seller demo'd it, I bought it, and installed it today.
So long cargo space, for now. The enclosure fits between the cargo net tiedowns, which also allows the hinge and latch covers to clear the box. The front is slightly pushing in to the back seat, and the back fits inside the tub seam. I'll figure out a retainer for rollover and theft deterrent.
The sound quality is decent, but pretty good for driving around with the soft top on. It'll do for now, but I'd prefer put subs under the seat. . . maybe someday.
So long cargo space, for now. The enclosure fits between the cargo net tiedowns, which also allows the hinge and latch covers to clear the box. The front is slightly pushing in to the back seat, and the back fits inside the tub seam. I'll figure out a retainer for rollover and theft deterrent.
The sound quality is decent, but pretty good for driving around with the soft top on. It'll do for now, but I'd prefer put subs under the seat. . . maybe someday.
I bought an LJ for the extra space... dog, kid, etc. No effin’ way was I sacrificing any of it for audio, but everyone’s needs are different.
There is ample (OK, nearly adequate) space under the rear seat to make bass, especially if you plan for some air movement under there.
There is ample (OK, nearly adequate) space under the rear seat to make bass, especially if you plan for some air movement under there.
When you replaced your sub/amp did you just delete the factory amp/wiring im the console? Is there anything on that harness going to the head unit that I would still need? I plan to run speakers off of head unit and an aftermarket amp. Thank you.
I deleted it all. There’s nothing you need from it if you’re installing an aftermarket system.
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