Upper Track Bar Hole Too Big

greyghost_lj

greyghost_lj

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So I've got to replace my bent trackbar. I ordered a JKS OGS125 Adjustable Track Bar. Problem is I forgot I had to drill out the frame side upper track bar hole to 5/8 for the bent track bar and the new one has a 9/16 bolt. Is there some kind of bracket I can get to adapt this? I've seen adapters from Clayton Offroad with a double shear design with rotates the bolt orientation to be parallel with the ground instead of vertically, but for some reason JKS has the adjustable end on the axle side meaning that (as far as I can deduce) the double-shear bracket design for the upper mount won't work. Pictures for reference below. What should I do?

Double-Shear design that won't work the JKS track bar.
rc-tb450-tj-1_1.jpg


JKS OGS125 Track Bar with adjustable rod end on the axle-side and vertically oriented frame-side bolt.
003-jeep-wrangler-tj-jks-mfg-lift-trail-grappler-7.jpg
 
Not sure if JKS offers a ball with a 5/8 hole but Rockjocks bar comes with one.
 
greyghost_lj said:
So I've got to replace my bent trackbar. I ordered a JKS OGS125 Adjustable Track Bar. Problem is I forgot I had to drill out the frame side upper track bar hole to 5/8 for the bent track bar and the new one has a 9/16 bolt. Is there some kind of bracket I can get to adapt this? I've seen adapters from Clayton Offroad with a double shear design with rotates the bolt orientation to be parallel with the ground instead of vertically, but for some reason JKS has the adjustable end on the axle side meaning that (as far as I can deduce) the double-shear bracket design for the upper mount won't work. Pictures for reference below. What should I do?

Double-Shear design that won't work the JKS track bar.
View attachment 297981

JKS OGS125 Track Bar with adjustable rod end on the axle-side and vertically oriented frame-side bolt.
View attachment 297982
Click to expand...
I don’t think it matters. The hole size doesn’t hold the fastener in place, but friction due to the proper torque spec does.
 
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You may not want to go this route but Currie/RockJock will make you a track bar with whatever hole size you need on the frame end. It's just a matter of swapping out the JJ guts to match your bolt size. Easy Peazy.

I had a Metal Cloak TB that required a drilled frame mount. I replaced it with a RJ TB with the correct frame-end JJ for the drilled out mount.
 
greyghost_lj said:
So I've got to replace my bent trackbar. I ordered a JKS OGS125 Adjustable Track Bar. Problem is I forgot I had to drill out the frame side upper track bar hole to 5/8 for the bent track bar and the new one has a 9/16 bolt. Is there some kind of bracket I can get to adapt this? I've seen adapters from Clayton Offroad with a double shear design with rotates the bolt orientation to be parallel with the ground instead of vertically, but for some reason JKS has the adjustable end on the axle side meaning that (as far as I can deduce) the double-shear bracket design for the upper mount won't work. Pictures for reference below. What should I do?

Double-Shear design that won't work the JKS track bar.
View attachment 297981

JKS OGS125 Track Bar with adjustable rod end on the axle-side and vertically oriented frame-side bolt.
View attachment 297982
Click to expand...
If the 9/16" bolt has enough clamping force to hold one in place, it will also hold the new one. As long as there is a washer that fits down into the counterbore, put the bolt in and run it. It won't go anywhere.
 
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mrblaine said:
If the 9/16" bolt has enough clamping force to hold one in place, it will also hold the new one. As long as there is a washer that fits down into the counterbore, put the bolt in and run it. It won't go anywhere.
Click to expand...

I did this on my previous TJ. I had drilled it out for a Currie, but was selling it, wanted to keep the Currie, and couldn't go back to stock since I'd drilled out the taper.

The JKS I bought had a washer that fit down in the counterbore so the bolt couldn't move around. Worked just fine.
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I did this on my previous TJ. I had drilled it out for a Currie, but was selling it, wanted to keep the Currie, and couldn't go back to stock since I'd drilled out the taper.

The JKS I bought had a washer that fit down in the counterbore so the bolt couldn't move around. Worked just fine.
Click to expand...
The washer doesn't prevent the bolt from moving except through the function of not resting on top of the uneven forged edges which wear and work in under load reducing torque. The only reason they need to fit down into the counterbore is so there is a flat surface, nothing more. Bolt stretch handles it from there.
 
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mrblaine said:
If the 9/16" bolt has enough clamping force to hold one in place, it will also hold the new one. As long as there is a washer that fits down into the counterbore, put the bolt in and run it. It won't go anywhere.
Click to expand...
Thanks all, I ended up getting the OGS128 from JKS, which is their HD TB and has a 5/8 frame side bolt. This is probably good, considering the current track bar was bent from my recklessness, and I don't think I'll be losing that trait anytime soon ;)
 
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mrblaine said:
If the 9/16" bolt has enough clamping force to hold one in place, it will also hold the new one. As long as there is a washer that fits down into the counterbore, put the bolt in and run it. It won't go anywhere.
Click to expand...

When I put the washer into the counterbore, There is still play in the bolt, when it is not torqued. Does this mean I can still run it?
 
Reviving an old thread here. I'm currently running a Metalcloak Front TB when my Jeep has only ~2" of lift. In hindsight, this is the only lift component I regret.

I've had to modify the bump stops more than I like to avoid diff contact. I would like to return to the stock TB. I'm running stock in the back still, and the axle shift is imperceptible.

What's the general consensus? Fine to throw the stock back on even though I had to drill out the factory hole for the Metalcloak?
 
From what i can Gather from my forum posts/ research is this:

the Frame side hole can be too big because its the compressive force that holds the track bar in place

the axle side hole should be the correct size, which means you would have to weld a new plate in there to the proper diameter of the bolt.

the only think Im confused about in that situation is the frame side on stock track bar is tapered.

my current plan is to measure using the Blaine method, and go from there
 
Yeti08 said:
From what i can Gather from my forum posts/ research is this:

the Frame side hole can be too big because its the compressive force that holds the track bar in place
Click to expand...

It can be oversized if it's just a bigger bolt vs smaller bolt. You can't put the factory bar on a drilled out hole because it's a tapered rod end and without the taper seat there's nothing to seat against. It would at least ruin the grease boot and have no capability for misalignment, and might just pull the rod end out of it's socket.


Yeti08 said:
the axle side hole should be the correct size, which means you would have to weld a new plate in there to the proper diameter of the bolt.
Click to expand...

If the hole is still small enough for a washer to seat against and have some meat to grab onto, it's fine.

Yeti08 said:
the only think Im confused about in that situation is the frame side on stock track bar is tapered.

my current plan is to measure using the Blaine method, and go from there
Click to expand...
 
ShredAZ said:
Fine to throw the stock back on even though I had to drill out the factory hole for the Metalcloak?
Click to expand...

Absolutely under no conditions is it ok.
You need to weld in and re ream the bracket or replace it with a stock one to run a stock style bar.

Or you stay with a bolt style trackbar like a jks or rockjock.
Since you have a front Dana 44 you should run the rockjock for better clearance.

Do you have adjustable arms that will allow you to bring the axle back a bit?
 
Rickyd said:
Absolutely under no conditions is it ok.
You need to weld in and re ream the bracket or replace it with a stock one to run a stock style bar.

Or you stay with a bolt style trackbar like a jks or rockjock.
Since you have a front Dana 44 you should run the rockjock for better clearance.

Do you have adjustable arms that will allow you to bring the axle back a bit?
Click to expand...

Appreciate the response. It's been years since I pulled the stock TB. I forgot it was a tapered interface...

I'm running stock control arms. Truthfully, I wanted to avoid adding adjustables if I could just throw the stock TB back on (just due to cost).

My next question, which I think you answered, what aftermarket TB's would be a better option? I'll take a look at the Rockjock. What originally had me set on the MC were the wide reports of clearance for the Dana 44. Disappointed that wasn't my experience.
 
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ShredAZ said:
Appreciate the response. It's been years since I pulled the stock TB. I forgot it was a tapered interface...

I'm running stock control arms. Truthfully, I wanted to avoid adding adjustables if I could just throw the stock TB back on (just due to cost).

My next question, which I think you answered, what aftermarket TB's would be a better option? I'll take a look at the Rockjock. What originally had me set on the MC were the wide reports of clearance for the Dana 44. Disappointed that wasn't my experience.
Click to expand...

If you are getting an acceptable service life from the metalcloak hiem you could put your bar in a press and give it more clearance? Cheapest option if you can make a jig to put in a big enough press
 
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If you have a Dana 44 with only 2 inches of lift, hate to break it to you but the Currie Rockjock front track bar will also cause massive interference on the front diff. How much bumpstop are you currently running?
 
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