Using LEDs in the front fender side-markers on a Jeep Wrangler TJ

I'm excited to be exterior LED-friendly; perhaps, I may get an invite to your LED turn signal exclusive club 😉 (Doesn't current flow toward the banded side - anode to cathode?)

It is nice/unique to be all LED! And lol, sure thing. Not many make it into the club.

And whoops, my apologies. I was not paying attention to the merge being on the left. Yes, the way you have it is indeed correct.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeep 541X
Installing LED headlights, taillights, and front turn signals requires nothing more than replacing your flasher relay in the steering column with an LED flasher relay.

However, to use LEDs in the front fender side-markers, you'll run into issues. The side-markers ground through the unused filament on the front fender bulbs, and if the resistance is too high in the front fender bulbs, as is with a light emitting diode, the side-markers will not light, and the front LEDs May light inappropriately.

In order to get LEDs in both, you need to convert the fender flare sockets into a 3-wire setup using standard diodes and dimming resistors.

It can also be done with load resistors, but load resistors will waste energy and are more finicky

Here is a crappy guide to a 3-wire setup:

View attachment 142439

Buy a set of 1 watt resistors and fine tune the low brightness using the resistor. You want a brightness that is bright enough yet contrasts with the high brightness for the turn signal. I think I used 350 ohm resistors in mine.

It will simply alternate low/high brightness when the turn signals and parking lights are on, and low when only parking lights are on.

No changes are needed to the front fender sockets if this wiring is followed for the fender flare sidemarkers.

I'm at 1000 Ohm and barely can see the side light blinking.... besides adding a lot more resistors, do you have any suggestions? I'm using the Sylvania Zevo 168's and the Sylvania 3157s LED on the front.
 
I'm at 1000 Ohm and barely can see the side light blinking.... besides adding a lot more resistors, do you have any suggestions? I'm using the Sylvania Zevo 168's and the Sylvania 3157s LED on the front.

Buy a resistor kit and play with different brightnesses until you find what you like. I used really bright bulbs from VLEDS and I want to say 500 ohms was the right fit for me, they’re quite dim with only 500 ohms even. Just depends on the bulb used.
 
Buy a resistor kit and play with different brightnesses until you find what you like. I used really bright bulbs from VLEDS and I want to say 500 ohms was the right fit for me, they’re quite dim with only 500 ohms even. Just depends on the bulb used.

A non-Sylvania brand bulb may be the ticket... and for sure, higher Ohm resistors, if nothing else. Thank you. All else seems fine, thank goodness.
 
A non-Sylvania brand bulb may be the ticket... and for sure, higher Ohm resistors, if nothing else. Thank you. All else seems fine, thank goodness.

I did take your post to mean that your sylvanias are too bright in low mode, correct?

I like the VLEDS 26-led 921 Ambers. They’re bright.
 
I did take your post to mean that your sylvanias are too bright in low mode, correct?

I like the VLEDS 26-led 921 Ambers. They’re bright.

I am not able to answer that question, since I haven't added enough resistors (at ~ 1000 Ohms so far) to know the dimmer side of it.
 
I'm at 1000 Ohm and barely can see the side light blinking.... besides adding a lot more resistors, do you have any suggestions? I'm using the Sylvania Zevo 168's and the Sylvania 3157s LED on the front.

Are you wiring in parallel or in series? The resistor needs to be wired in series with the LED to dim it. (Wiring in parallel would only be appropriate for a load resistor, which is unnecessary with the new flasher relay.)

Also, if you have any way to measure the amperage draw of your bulb, theoretically you could estimate the range of resistance needed.

To be fancy, you could use a variable resistor (or potentiometer) and simply turn the set screw to get the correct brightness.
Example:
https://www.jameco.com/z/RV4NAYSD20...Plastic-2W-Panel-Mount-Solder-Lug_241613.html
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeep 541X
Are you wiring in parallel or in series? The resistor needs to be wired in series with the LED to dim it. (Wiring in parallel would only be appropriate for a load resistor, which is unnecessary with the new flasher relay.)

Also, if you have any way to measure the amperage draw of your bulb, theoretically you could estimate the range of resistance needed.

To be fancy, you could use a variable resistor (or potentiometer) and simply turn the set screw to get the correct brightness.
Example:
https://www.jameco.com/z/RV4NAYSD20...Plastic-2W-Panel-Mount-Solder-Lug_241613.html
I think that may just be the answer - wiring the resistor in series, which means I will play around with a few hundreds until I settle on the desired value and get one to take their place in the final wiring. (I would be up for the amperage draw challenge, but, currently, I am working with less than ideal electronic measuring devices). Lastly, which brand bulbs did you settle on?
 
I think that may just be the answer - wiring the resistor in series, which means I will play around with a few hundreds until I settle on the desired value and get one to take their place in the final wiring. (I would be up for the amperage draw challenge, but, currently, I am working with less than ideal electronic measuring devices). Lastly, which brand bulbs did you settle on?

If you didn’t wire it in series, that’s the problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steel City 06
LED flasher hack. Im going to start by saying "I did not read through this entire thread". I have a pretty decent knowledge around automotive wiring, like to the extent of creating my own wiring looms for custom built vehicles skinning and stripping existing looms and rebuilding to suit my needs etc.
I came up with a totally lame ("temporary") fix for the incandescent to LED flasher issue. As you know, you need to either swap out the flasher with an LED flasher or add resistors to your LED's. When I finished building my front fenders and wired in the LED run and turn signals, I didn't have any resistors or an LED flasher on hand. I took a couple of incandecent bulbs (I had some single element bulbs in my shop from my RV LED swap.) (same bulbs used in multi light systems like the Cherokee and MANY others) The original TJ bulbs would have worked but one was burned out and they are bigger/bulkier bulbs. I soldered wires to the bulb to make the package smaller vs a bulky socket, then wired it into the turn signal LED, one per side . Think about it like this,,, Remove your existing incanecant turn signals from the fender (still wired in)and hide them so they can not be seen lighting up. Run the positive wire from your new LED to the positive wire of your turn signal that you just hid and the negative to ground. Tah Dah no fast blink and zero cost. I stuck the bulbs (now resistors) into a couple of plastic caps from carb clean, taped them up and zip tied the blob down to secure it. My intention is to fix it right with a flasher but that hasn't happened yet. No I am not recommending this as "the correct way" it is simply "A way" to make an electrical circuit work at no cost or when parts are not available. I fully plan to change the flasher and remove this hack when I swap the tail lights out to LED.
 
Rather than cut the wires to the side marker light I made a patch cable that will do the same thing. Way more easier to build the circuit, no cutting of wires, and it's reversible.

When the adapter is installed you may run into the following issues.
If the LED does not light at all, you need to spin the bulb 180 degrees in the socket.
If the LED does light but it is bright, you need to rotate the plug into the factory socket by 180 degrees.

The second if statement has to do with the default mode of the side marker is dim, and when it flashes it gets bright. If you put the plug into the factory socket the wrong way the bulb will always be bright, even when it flashes.

If you want to build this circuit like I did here's the parts you will need the following additional items to your BOM.

194 Male Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WTZMNZL/?tag=wranglerorg-20

194 Female Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8F322J/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Here's what it looks like. I haven't tested it yet but I did build the circuit exactly Steel City 06 described.
View attachment 169551

Do you have a schematic of this adapter. I'm not sure where to tie the ground wire that is shown in the picture