Waiting for supplies to make this…
View attachment 369164
You’ll need to flip the diodes around. Otherwise that will work.
Waiting for supplies to make this…
View attachment 369164
You’ll need to flip the diodes around. Otherwise that will work.
I'm excited to be exterior LED-friendly; perhaps, I may get an invite to your LED turn signal exclusive club (Doesn't current flow toward the banded side - anode to cathode?)
Installing LED headlights, taillights, and front turn signals requires nothing more than replacing your flasher relay in the steering column with an LED flasher relay.
However, to use LEDs in the front fender side-markers, you'll run into issues. The side-markers ground through the unused filament on the front fender bulbs, and if the resistance is too high in the front fender bulbs, as is with a light emitting diode, the side-markers will not light, and the front LEDs May light inappropriately.
In order to get LEDs in both, you need to convert the fender flare sockets into a 3-wire setup using standard diodes and dimming resistors.
It can also be done with load resistors, but load resistors will waste energy and are more finicky
Here is a crappy guide to a 3-wire setup:
View attachment 142439
Buy a set of 1 watt resistors and fine tune the low brightness using the resistor. You want a brightness that is bright enough yet contrasts with the high brightness for the turn signal. I think I used 350 ohm resistors in mine.
It will simply alternate low/high brightness when the turn signals and parking lights are on, and low when only parking lights are on.
No changes are needed to the front fender sockets if this wiring is followed for the fender flare sidemarkers.
I'm at 1000 Ohm and barely can see the side light blinking.... besides adding a lot more resistors, do you have any suggestions? I'm using the Sylvania Zevo 168's and the Sylvania 3157s LED on the front.
Buy a resistor kit and play with different brightnesses until you find what you like. I used really bright bulbs from VLEDS and I want to say 500 ohms was the right fit for me, they’re quite dim with only 500 ohms even. Just depends on the bulb used.
A non-Sylvania brand bulb may be the ticket... and for sure, higher Ohm resistors, if nothing else. Thank you. All else seems fine, thank goodness.
I did take your post to mean that your sylvanias are too bright in low mode, correct?
I like the VLEDS 26-led 921 Ambers. They’re bright.
It's gotta be the Sylvania bulb; it didn't get dimmer with ~2500 Ohm load.
Some LEDs are weird like that and won’t dim. Time to try some others.
I'm at 1000 Ohm and barely can see the side light blinking.... besides adding a lot more resistors, do you have any suggestions? I'm using the Sylvania Zevo 168's and the Sylvania 3157s LED on the front.
I think that may just be the answer - wiring the resistor in series, which means I will play around with a few hundreds until I settle on the desired value and get one to take their place in the final wiring. (I would be up for the amperage draw challenge, but, currently, I am working with less than ideal electronic measuring devices). Lastly, which brand bulbs did you settle on?Are you wiring in parallel or in series? The resistor needs to be wired in series with the LED to dim it. (Wiring in parallel would only be appropriate for a load resistor, which is unnecessary with the new flasher relay.)
Also, if you have any way to measure the amperage draw of your bulb, theoretically you could estimate the range of resistance needed.
To be fancy, you could use a variable resistor (or potentiometer) and simply turn the set screw to get the correct brightness.
Example:
https://www.jameco.com/z/RV4NAYSD20...Plastic-2W-Panel-Mount-Solder-Lug_241613.html
I think that may just be the answer - wiring the resistor in series, which means I will play around with a few hundreds until I settle on the desired value and get one to take their place in the final wiring. (I would be up for the amperage draw challenge, but, currently, I am working with less than ideal electronic measuring devices). Lastly, which brand bulbs did you settle on?
lolIf you didn’t wire it in series, that’s the problem.
The above, ladies and gentlemen, is a great example of the highly knowledgeable members in this forum. I did the resistors in series, as advised, and it all worked. THANK YOU!!!
Rather than cut the wires to the side marker light I made a patch cable that will do the same thing. Way more easier to build the circuit, no cutting of wires, and it's reversible.
When the adapter is installed you may run into the following issues.
If the LED does not light at all, you need to spin the bulb 180 degrees in the socket.
If the LED does light but it is bright, you need to rotate the plug into the factory socket by 180 degrees.
The second if statement has to do with the default mode of the side marker is dim, and when it flashes it gets bright. If you put the plug into the factory socket the wrong way the bulb will always be bright, even when it flashes.
If you want to build this circuit like I did here's the parts you will need the following additional items to your BOM.
194 Male Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WTZMNZL/?tag=wranglerorg-20
194 Female Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8F322J/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Here's what it looks like. I haven't tested it yet but I did build the circuit exactly Steel City 06 described.
View attachment 169551
You wouldnt happen to have the part # for your flasher relay?
I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBTYB462/?tag=wranglerorg-20 and it works great on mine. Full LED all around.