V8 Magnum Swap

Rubi04 said:
To clarify, you had a 6.0 in that 3/4 ton you drove. GM never put their 6.2 in the heavy duty trucks as it is their performance model.

the 6.0 stock is anemic like the base 5.3. Both are good engines, last a long time but down on power compared to the more modern engines.

I’m not a GM fan boy. My neighbor had a Denali and and has the 6.2 in it. It’s a god damn fast truck.
I have a F150 with a 3.5 eco. I keep telling him we need to line up, but I’m might add a tune to blow his doors off. The 6.2 is a beast, but not a workhorse like the tied and true 6.0 was. And yes, it wouldn’t blow up your skirt but GM makes junk transmissions too in that era. Lol.
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I would have sworn it was the 6.2 but I am not a Chevy expert so I won't argue. The engine that was in my truck was underpowered and got some of the worst fuel mileage. For the mileage I was getting I should/could have had a Big Block. It was a interim truck until I could get another diesel. I want to say it was a 2002-2005 but I don't remember. It was the gimmicked truck with the Dana 60 rear steer axle also. Use to freak people out all the time becasue they thought I'd bent a wheel or axle.
 
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Wildman said:
Here are a bunch of notes I gathered from other people's swap threads on what they did with the wiring. None of this information has been verified but it is what others shared. So please use it at your own risk and take the time to check any suggested wiring mods BEFORE you do them. I'm just trying to share what information I have.
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Excellent. Thank you
 
rustybottoms88 said:
Advanced Adapters is where I read about the 1" body lift.
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The small body lift will add room for truck or Durango exhaust manifolds. The y pipe might get a little weird due to the manifolds dumping to the rear. Center dump manifolds or block hugger headers let you run the drivers exhaust in front of the oil pan sump and y into the passenger side.

I run 2.25 from the manifolds to a 3 inch y pipe to a single cat, then 3 inch to the muffler, 2.5 out of the muffler out over the axle. Runs fine with that combo.
 
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I had 2.25" to the Y and then 2.5" the rest of the way back for the 5.2 I had in the Jeep. For the stroker engine I'm doing 2.5" to the Y and then am going to try 3" all the way to the back. No idea yet if I can get it all to fit.
 
Wildman said:
I had 2.25" to the Y and then 2.5" the rest of the way back for the 5.2 I had in the Jeep. For the stroker engine I'm doing 2.5" to the Y and then am going to try 3" all the way to the back. No idea yet if I can get it all to fit.
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3 inch all the way back is tight with stock style tank and suspension. With your setup, probably will just have to try and see if you can make it fit.

I do my own exhaust. I buy mandrel bends from Summit , cut the bends I want and butt weld them together. Muffler shop benders have a hard time getting bends close enough together sometimes to get in and out of tight spots. Besides, finding an old school muffler shop with a bender AND a guy who gives a shit is getting harder and harder. There was one guy around here that was great, but he retired 10 years ago and nobody took his place.

On a side note, people can get all bound up about mandrel vs 'crush' bend. I really doubt it matters much performance wise. I use mandrel because they fit together nice as long as you cut them square. The diameter stays pretty consistent through the whole bend. Makes butt welds easy to do.
 
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I am going to keep adding TJ magnum info as it keeps popping back into my head, so it may seem scatter brained.

I moved my engine back about 1.25 inches or so from Advance Adapters recommended position. This allows the use of the factory TJ clutch fan with a aluminum radiator from Superior Radiator. Never gets hot and I have been known to beat on it like I hate it sometimes.

The only issue with the Superior radiator I have had is the mount cracking. They are currently cracked, and I am making parts to mount it like a Dodge Ram radiator instead of directly to the grill. It took 3 years and 45000 miles for the mounts to crack.

Electric fans can work well, but it's usually the crappy relays and haphazard wiring people do that causes them to fail at the worst times. Had to just hot wire them on the trail for my hack friends because they use shitty connections and cheap sensors ( and they are stupid). A factory style setup like a Ford Taurus or something would probably be good. I just prefer mechanical clutch fans. Complete failure is rare with them.
 
Wiring...this is the one that makes some people cry like babies. It's not that bad. If you are scared of wiring, just buy a harness from Hotwire or whoever you want. If you want to do it yourself, here are a few suggestions.

Download the section of the connector pinouts for YOUR YEAR TJ AND YOUR YEAR DONOR ENGINE. Its section 8W-80 for Dodge Ram and TJs. Print them out so you can make notes with a pencil on them.

The things you are looking at are the PCM connector pinouts ( there are 3) vs the sensor or device pinouts ( iac, tps, fuel pump, leak detection pump, brake lamp switch,etc).

For instance, Dodge Ram PCM connector C3 pin # 24 is Brake Lamp Switch Sense, the other end of that needs to be connected to Brake Lamp Switch Sense in the TJ. Wire color does not matter. Wire # (K29 in this example) does not matter. The function of the wire and where it pins matters. Dodge and Jeep are both Chrysler, and thankfully they kept the function terminology the same. THEY DID NOT KEEP WIRE # OR COLOR THE SAME ALL THE TIME!

It is time consuming. Instead of watching tv at night for a week, I sat down and marked up the pinout sheets, comparing TJ to Ram. Then, I brought both engine harnesses in the house and started combining them together.

If you are going from Ram PCM to a Ram engine sensor or device(iac,tps,fuel injector) you get to leave it alone. If you are going from Ram PCM to Tj ( fuel pump relay, fuse block ,etc) you need to splice.

If a wire is in a PCM connector, it needs to go somewhere. You cannot just leave stuff out. It should all be connected to something ( the correct thing would be prefered). Just looked through my old notes and the only things I did not connect were PTO Switch Sense and AC stuff. Everything else needs to be connected.

Long post.. need another coffee.
 
Great info guys. Thank you. I will concur on the electric fan use. I thought I would be a cool kid and put and electric fan in a CJ I had once and it was NOT as efficient as the stock fan WITH shroud. So I plan to use the ZJ fan and the internet tells me I can use a 4.O shroud with it. The wiring, I have been scouring the internet and found the pin outs for the donor, TJ and Durango ECM. I think it's just gonna come down to me tearing into it and then once I get a idea of what is going on I will have more definitive questions. One disappointment is that the ZJ I bought was supposed to be a 96' but no it's a 94'.
 
Paul Ruggles said:
3 inch all the way back is tight with stock style tank and suspension. With your setup, probably will just have to try and see if you can make it fit.

I do my own exhaust. I buy mandrel bends from Summit , cut the bends I want and butt weld them together. Muffler shop benders have a hard time getting bends close enough together sometimes to get in and out of tight spots. Besides, finding an old school muffler shop with a bender AND a guy who gives a shit is getting harder and harder. There was one guy around here that was great, but he retired 10 years ago and nobody took his place.

On a side note, people can get all bound up about mandrel vs 'crush' bend. I really doubt it matters much performance wise. I use mandrel because they fit together nice as long as you cut them square. The diameter stays pretty consistent through the whole bend. Makes butt welds easy to do.
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Plans at this point are Stainless Steel all the way back and I have kits in 2.5" and 3". The only thing I haven't bought yet is a muffler as I was waiting to see how much room I had to fit one in. Hoping I can tack them together and then get it welded together.

rustybottoms88 said:
Great info guys. Thank you. I will concur on the electric fan use. I thought I would be a cool kid and put and electric fan in a CJ I had once and it was NOT as efficient as the stock fan WITH shroud. So I plan to use the ZJ fan and the internet tells me I can use a 4.O shroud with it. The wiring, I have been scouring the internet and found the pin outs for the donor, TJ and Durango ECM. I think it's just gonna come down to me tearing into it and then once I get a idea of what is going on I will have more definitive questions. One disappointment is that the ZJ I bought was supposed to be a 96' but no it's a 94'.
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Just make sure you get a newer wiring harness to help out with the wiring. If you are going to use a PCM from a 2001 Durango I would also get the engine wiring harness from the donor Durango. You can use a older block as long as you retain the emissions equipment from the newer donor vehicle.
Yes I get that you might not have a smog check where you live and all that . But Federal EPA laws still apply even if they are not being checked. If you do a engine swap and then 3-6 years down the road decide to sell your TJ if it isn't emissions legal technically you are not allowed to sell it. I know for some none of this matter I'm just suggesting to make life easier.

I had the engine set where Advanced Adapters suggests so I have to use a electric fan. I was running a brass core and a Flex-A-Lite Black Magic 15" fan and a Spal fan controller.

As PR said is you move the engine mounts back just a little you can run the ZJ fan & fan clutch with a TJ 4.0 shroud.

For radiator hoses these seem to have worked for others so I wrote the part#'s down.

Lower radiator hose- Gates# 22287 or Dayco# D71954
Upper radiator hose- Gates# 20983 or Dayco# 70480

The upper one you can just use a ribbed hose but if you are wanting to run the A/C compressor I've read that the molded hose seems to fit better.

A member over on the JF forum is in the middle of a V-8 swap and just figured out that 1992-93 Dodge Dakota 5.2 manifolds casting numbers are 53006619 drivers side and 53006618 passenger side. They measure 2 1/8 compared the the 2002 manifolds that measure 1 7/8.

I started a notebook with all this information written down inside it. If it doesn't help me out it might help someone else out at some point.

There is a 187 page discussion on the V-8 swap over on JF forum. It's long but a good read.

https://tinyurl.com/ybcekogv
 
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rustybottoms88 said:
Hi! I have a 2001 TJ. Swapping in a V8 Magnum. Here for some information and inspiration. Was trying to message @RangerRick. I may not have those permissions yet, this being my first post. Thanks
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Still around but limited time these days at least for now as I tackle my next great Jeep swap.....

Another Cummins 4BT turbo diesel in my old-iron CJ.

Trying to finish that one up and get it out on the street/trail.

I have thought about posting a build here even though it's a CJ I think many would find it inspiring and unique. If I lived in a state other than the land of the fruits and dingleberry nuts Kalifornication, I would put a Cummins in a TJ in a hot second but I digress......

The rules are such that it's virtually impossible without a pre 1975 to do things like that without a lot of work and headache.

I will check in from time to time and am on the sister JK forum because of the four door family Jeep now ;)

@Chris make a Jeep CJ forum and sign me up as your first member, I will have lots of content for it and a build to post if you do!

RR
 
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Question, those of you who went from the 4 cylinder to the V8, did you swap your front coil springs or are the stockers adequate? I think it's a 200lb difference between the two.
 
Paul Ruggles said:
I am going to keep adding TJ magnum info as it keeps popping back into my head, so it may seem scatter brained.

I moved my engine back about 1.25 inches or so from Advance Adapters recommended position. This allows the use of the factory TJ clutch fan with a aluminum radiator from Superior Radiator. Never gets hot and I have been known to beat on it like I hate it sometimes.

The only issue with the Superior radiator I have had is the mount cracking. They are currently cracked, and I am making parts to mount it like a Dodge Ram radiator instead of directly to the grill. It took 3 years and 45000 miles for the mounts to crack.

Electric fans can work well, but it's usually the crappy relays and haphazard wiring people do that causes them to fail at the worst times. Had to just hot wire them on the trail for my hack friends because they use shitty connections and cheap sensors ( and they are stupid). A factory style setup like a Ford Taurus or something would probably be good. I just prefer mechanical clutch fans. Complete failure is rare with them.
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You have a automatic or manual trans?
 
Wildman said:
Here are a bunch of notes I gathered from other people's swap threads on what they did with the wiring. None of this information has been verified but it is what others shared. So please use it at your own risk and take the time to check any suggested wiring mods BEFORE you do them. I'm just trying to share what information I have.
Click to expand...
I noticed you have custom driveshafts, are these required if you put the Advanced adapters in the suggested position and use a 44RE and NP231J?
 
rustybottoms88 said:
I noticed you have custom driveshafts, are these required if you put the Advanced adapters in the suggested position and use a 44RE and NP231J?
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I can't answer that for you since I have a STaK's 3 speed transfer case. I'm trying to remember from all the build threads I've read if it was needed or not and I don't remember. As I said I am not sure but I think you still have to have new shafts made. I think the rear is longer and the front shorter but I could be wrong.
 
I had thought my donor ZJ was a 1996, it turned out to be a 1994. I am using a 2001 Dodge Durango ECM. Do any of you know off hand if the 94'sensors are compatible with the 01' ECM?
 
rustybottoms88 said:
I had thought my donor ZJ was a 1996, it turned out to be a 1994. I am using a 2001 Dodge Durango ECM. Do any of you know off hand if the 94'sensors are compatible with the 01' ECM?
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You could check part numbers and see if they are the same?

Also I would get a wiring harness from a 01-03 Dakota to make sure your wiring is compatible with the PCI dash.
 
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