V8 Swap, Diesel?

A perspective might be a Wrangler frame might be a little lighter than a 1/2 ton truck frame. Would you tow something with a 1/2 ton truck? Wrangler could do it. Does it require a 3/4 or more - definitely a Wrangler frame cannot handle it.
Well when I first thought of this I was thinking of trying to actually make it a 1 ton and my plan was to be able to tow probably too much.

I would think a 1/2 ton could tow about 8k lbs with trailer brakes that's fairly balanced. I simply haven't towed much with a 1/2 ton, but lots with a 3/4 ton and shitty trailers.
 
Now my biggest issue with the my TJ when I've towed above its rating, are the springs and lack of braking. Basically it would want to slam the rear of the Jeep and my brakes can't stop even 3k lb trailer very quickly at all. My ZJ had the spring problem, but it didn't seem to care about stuff in the 4k lb range, I don't think I towed more than that with it.

My 1/2 ton was always braking down, but I did put 3k lbs in the bed and it drove fine, just looked funny as hell.
 
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15 years ago I put 2,000lbs worth of paving stone in the trunk of my Chrysler Cirrus and drove 30 miles home - TWICE. It did it, but my palms were sweating the whole way!

The Menards guy was -

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Now my biggest issue with the my TJ when I've towed above its rating, are the springs and lack of braking. Basically it would want to slam the rear of the Jeep and my brakes can't stop even 3k lb trailer very quickly at all. My ZJ had the spring problem, but it didn't seem to care about stuff in the 4k lb range, I don't think I towed more than that with it.

My 1/2 ton was always braking down, but I did put 3k lbs in the bed and it drove fine, just looked funny as hell.
Also tow rating has to do with wheelbase, TJ is 2k, LJ is 3.5k, 1.5k in just a few inches.
 
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15 years ago I put 2,000lbs worth of paving stone in the trunk of my Chrysler Cirrus and drove 30 miles home - TWICE. It did it, but my palms were sweating the whole way!

The Menards guy was -

View attachment 211004
Yeah that was me one day when I picked up 3k lbs of hickory flooring and I just got a half ton truck. I was like, I've got a truck....

I hauled a couple of scoops of rock for my mom a couple times and the next week I had a wheel bearing fail.

The worst was when I decided it was a better idea to use my TJ with 33" tires, with 3.07s to use my 2k lb trailer to go pickup my Willy's Jeep and decided I'd just use the hilly and windy AF roads rather than the highway. Not only did I almost run out of fuel in 45 mi, but I just barely made it over hills.

My grand dad told me they used to overload like crazy and have to go into 4lo just to get over hills. He thought it was perfectly normal.
 
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I hear that about the wheelbase. I'm guessing that if the trailer did slip that it would just flip you sideways so quick, because you don't have the leverage from the other axle.

When I don't have a trailer get away from me, I actually really like using my Jeep, unless I need to stop suddenly. Actually it's not even close to how nice it is towing with a 3/4 ton or bigger. But I do like the maneuverability of the small wheelbase with a trailer.

If I need to really put a trailer some place, I'm just better backing up with the TJ, but that's probably because I can see and make tight turns.
 
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Sometimes also vehicles cannot tow what they are rated for. Had a 2001 Tacoma, V6, 5spd, rated at 5K towing. Bought a 17ft travel trailer weighs 4k, max speed floored was 50 mph. Taco went and ended up with WK2. It can go either way.
 
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Sometimes also vehicles cannot tow what they are rated for. Had a 2001 Tacoma, V6, 5spd, rated at 5K towing. Bought a 17ft travel trailer weighs 4k, max speed floored was 50 mph. Taco went and ended up with WK2. It can go either way.
Yeah my 4.0 and its original gearing, couldn't tow for quickly at all. The R2.8 even with poor gearing will slowly gain speed and make you think you're just fine until you need to brake.

I am very humble when towing, plus so often I'm hauling junk and it's kind of embarrassing to have to run out in traffic and pick up a dirty mattress a quarter mile behind you.
 
Wheelbase is a huge factor for towing - both from a safety and comfort standpoint. A SWB rig - even with a built 12V is still a small rig that will quickly float the front tires with even a modest tongue-weight.
 
Most of us would. I know I still want one, but I can't seem to find a Jeep configuration I don't want.
I want to do an R2.8 swap but I have a 32rh auto trans. I don't see why it wouldn't work except I can't find an adapter plate. Do you know a group that makes one? What else is required in the swap that isn't included with the engine?
 
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I had a 4BT Rubicon LJ. That jeep was bad ass but I move a lot so couldn't justify keeping it with the size of it. If I was to build another diesel jeep I'd probably try the 3.9L ISB.
 
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I want to do an R2.8 swap but I have a 32rh auto trans. I don't see why it wouldn't work except I can't find an adapter plate. Do you know a group that makes one? What else is required in the swap that isn't included with the engine?
Generally with autos, the problem is the controller more than the adapter. I'm just not versed on what aftermarket controllers are available. Chris and Rusty Autoholic probably know more about the auto controllers.

Besides the engine, you'll have to get:
-the motor mounted ie mounts
-electric fan
-brackets for the oil and fuel filter
-sensors/gauges (but easily can be made to work with stock gauges)
-fuel line, fittings, fuel regulator
-intercooler
-May need to use a different radiator (I've heard of issues with the stock one, so maybe get a custom radiator which is $2k from CBR)
-Reservoir for power steering
-air filter
-lots of different piping and hoses and some wiring
-bigger battery than the stock Jeep battery (and fit the battery)
-If you want AC then just hand over at least your first born ($1500 for the bracket to even get started)
-Misc items I'm likely forgetting, not including what's broken on your Jeep and accessible

If you take your time, you can put this build together without crazy expense. At least have a budget 2x the engine cost and preferable 3x (yes that's immense, but if you're under that buy an Atlas and some lockers, well spending money is pretty easy to do) or you could be stuck only looking at the Cummins in your garage.

I think the kit and engine is around $20k right now. My kit was $7,500 without the engine. I think that's increased now. I added stuff during my build though when I did the swap, so my my build price was quite a bit more and I keep adding each year. I hoping that slows in the near future though.
 
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I probably wouldn't buy a kit just based off that I think it could be done cheaper than the price of it. It would be pretty damn cool to keep the stock gauges in tact and functional.
 
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have you deleted your egr? I know that the cat is passive so I wouldn't even install that. Probably sell it and put it towards the ac lol, that's a necessity in houston.
 
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I think not going with a kit is optimal, but just very slow. If you have any questions let me know. If I didn't want to deal with the down time, then I would have gone my own direction. IMO I'd buy a partial kit. I don't think you can beat some of the pricing.

My only issue with the stock gauges was the PCM location near the battery, which needs to be bigger than you can fit in the OEM tray. I just like eliminating stuff as much as possible. You can relocate the PCM and you can make the gauges work if you really really want.
 
have you deleted your egr? I know that the cat is passive so I wouldn't even install that. Probably sell it and put it towards the ac lol, that's a necessity in houston.
I have unplugged the EGR, but haven't removed it yet. I'm debating to send out the ECU for an optimized EGR free tune as well. Gonna check locally as well. I could just have the light "turned off" and I need to get a couple plates. I kind of want to get a Thermostat housing and exhaust manifold from overseas as well, to make it look completely stock.

I haven't ever deleted any engines. Everything I've got was before the "gov official smarter than industry fairy" came and blessed us with EGR. I really want to get a tune that's optimized for drivability and reliability, as well as figure out what plates/fittings I need to block off the coolant ports. I'm gonna check a couple of local shops, but I'm not sure about flashing vs EFI Live or something.

I just haven't had time and the money to do it right. I'm basically doing a complete axle and suspension and steering rebuild right now, so my time is nil and the Jeep will be down at least for another couple of weeks, since I have so little time during the week.