Ways to Keep Warm in Your RTT

Randun

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a city by the beach, CA
When I have camped in a RTT in the winter, the temperature drops down below freezing, and I tend to get a little cold at night.

How do you guys keep you and your family warm in your RTTs when you camp in the cold?

I've heard of 12v Blankets, Mr Buddy Heaters, Diesel Heaters, but I don't want to spend money on something that doesn't work.

Thank you for your time and your help!
 
I saw that post before, but thank you so much for sending the thread to me. This thread is primarily talking about bedding and Wiggy's bags.

I am more interested in people's opinons of heating options, as my bedding is pretty spot on.
There was a diesel heater system purchase so we can expect some feedback sometime
 
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12v heating pads work well if you have the battery capacity to power one.

A heating pad would be my preference over a diesel powered heater for several reasons in no particular order: (1) Adding a diesel heater forces you to carry and store another fuel; (2) it is relatively pointless to heat the air in your tent while you are sleeping inside a sleeping bag; (3) a heater takes up space and will be something always in the way.

You should insulate as much as possible underneath your bedding to prevent heat loss. A sleeping pad or thin foam pad is often enough. Foil backed bubble insulation works too.

Layer up on top as well, and don't wear clothing worn during the day. When the perspiration in that clothing gets cold, so will you. Always wear fresh, dry clothing to bed in very cold camping weather. A stocking cap or watch cap will also help to retain the heat that radiates from your head.

If you do all those things and have a decent sleeping bag or good bedding, you probably won't even need the 12v pad.
 
12v heating pads work well if you have the battery capacity to power one.

A heating pad would be my preference over a diesel powered heater for several reasons in no particular order: (1) Adding a diesel heater forces you to carry and store another fuel; (2) it is relatively pointless to heat the air in your tent while you are sleeping inside a sleeping bag; (3) a heater takes up space and will be something always in the way.

You should insulate as much as possible underneath your bedding to prevent heat loss. A sleeping pad or thin foam pad is often enough. Foil backed bubble insulation works too.

Layer up on top as well, and don't wear clothing worn during the day. When the perspiration in that clothing gets cold, so will you. Always wear fresh, dry clothing to bed in very cold camping weather. A stocking cap or watch cap will also help to retain the heat that radiates from your head.

If you do all those things and have a decent sleeping bag or good bedding, you probably won't even need the 12v pad.
Thank you so much for this information.

I was thinking about the same issues too...having to carry and store another type of fuel, and the heater being in the way.

I think my bedding is insulated pretty good. I have used a pad underneath my bedding, and have layered up on top as well.
 
12v heating pads work well if you have the battery capacity to power one.

A heating pad would be my preference over a diesel powered heater for several reasons in no particular order: (1) Adding a diesel heater forces you to carry and store another fuel; (2) it is relatively pointless to heat the air in your tent while you are sleeping inside a sleeping bag; (3) a heater takes up space and will be something always in the way.

You should insulate as much as possible underneath your bedding to prevent heat loss. A sleeping pad or thin foam pad is often enough. Foil backed bubble insulation works too.

Layer up on top as well, and don't wear clothing worn during the day. When the perspiration in that clothing gets cold, so will you. Always wear fresh, dry clothing to bed in very cold camping weather. A stocking cap or watch cap will also help to retain the heat that radiates from your head.

If you do all those things and have a decent sleeping bag or good bedding, you probably won't even need the 12v pad.
Diesel swap, eliminate one problem and add 10. :ROFLMAO:
 
Do you use an annex room?

Last time we were in real cold weather we set a mr buddy heater down on the ground and left the tent part door open. Heat would rise right up. It was toasty!
 
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Note: I have never used a RTT, but I routinely tent camp and backpack well below zero.

Focus on personal insulation as much as possible.

1st, and probably most important, is the mattress or pad you use. Modern mattresses are rated with an R-value. Look for an air mattress or pad with an ASTM F3340 compliant R-value above 6.

Here is a really good multipurpose camping pad:
https://www.rei.com/product/148193/rei-co-op-camp-bed-self-inflating-sleeping-padYou probably wouldn't want to take it backpacking but for most kinds of all season car camping it will work great.

The pad is very important because much of your heat is lost through conduction through the ground or whatever is underneath you. When you lie in your sleeping bag, you compress all of the insulation underneath you, rendering it nearly useless. However, you only partially compress a pad, so it will retain most of its insulating properties. The pad becomes even more important when there is airflow underneath, such as on a cot, in a RTT, or in a truck bed.

Note that typical air mattresses are very poor insulators. Self-inflating pads are usually much better insulated.

Next is the sleeping bag. Modern sleeping bags are rated using the EN/ISO standard. The EN/ISO standard generally has a "Comfort" and a "Lower Limit" rating. The "Comfort" rating is what most people should buy to. The "Lower Limit" isn't a guarantee you'll be warm, just more of a recommendation that you probably won't die of hypothermia. (Chances are you will be uncomfortable at those temps.)

The ratings assume you use the sleeping bag in its most warm position, i.e., supine and with the drawstring pulled as far shut as you can while still being able to breathe. You can always open up the drawstring and unzip the bag to let some air out.

You'll want a bag that has a comfort rating no higher than the coldest possible night you expect. It's easier to open it up than to try and layer past its rating.

Here is a pretty popular bag that is EN/ISO rated:
https://www.rei.com/product/136215/rei-co-op-down-time-0-down-sleeping-bagNote that the Comfort and Lower Limit ratings differ from the advertised rating. This is typical across all brands.

If the bag is not listed as EN/ISO rated, chances are it uses a proprietary rating system that is not comparable to other manufacturers. These ratings are generally "survival" ratings, or ratings that say you probably won't wake up dead. If it is not rated, add about 15-20 degrees or so above the listed rating and pretend that is the comfort rating.

Here is a good inexpensive winter camping bag, but note it is not EN/ISO rated:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077NR4VCZ/?tag=wranglerorg-20closer.
This one would be great for winter camping near a car, but not so much for backpacking. I'm actually buying one of these for myself.

There are three major types of bag fills:

Synthetic - cheap, warm, bulky, and heavy. Retains much of its insulating value when wet. Tends to be pretty durable. Very popular among campers who don't have to carry stuff very far.

Down: Expensive, warmer, lighter, and more compressible. Great for backpacking. Loses much of its insulating value when wet. Generally doesn't last as long as synthetic, but higher performance.

Water repellant down: Most expensive, lightest, warmer, more compressible. Doesn't lose much heat if it gets wet. Like normal down, doesn't last as long as synthetic, but very high performance. Highly popular among backpackers and mountaineers.

The pad and the bag are by far the most important items. But there are other items that can help a lot.

Sleeping bag liners like the Thermolite Reactor and Reactor Extreme can provide a small boost in warmth. I would suggest they add roughly 2/3rds what they advertise as a rule of thumb.

A pillow with fill will generally insulate better than a fully inflatable pillow.

Wear a thick stocking cap to help add some insulation to your head.

Avoid wearing tight clothes like tight socks and tightly fitting baselayer that can restrict circulation, unless you like cold feet.

Bring a set of loose clothes solely for sleeping. Even in cold weather, you tend to work up sweat when moving around, and mildly damp underlayers will significantly impact your temperature.

Eat something sugary or carb-y before going to bed. S'mores are perfect, but even just a handful of random snack foods is good.

Never pull your face into the sleeping bag. Sure it feels great at first, but all of the moisture in your breath will condense and make you much colder.

Always hydrate before sleeping. It is far better to have to get up and pee in the middle of the night than to be cold because you're dehydrated. When you're dehydrated, your blood volume drops, and less blood will get to your extremities. (And if you wake up needing to pee - just GO. Trust me.) Bring an old Gatorade bottle if you know you'll need to pee.
 
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Bring 2 or 3 of you dogs with you. Let 'em hop in bed with you. They are sure warm ! (make sure they ain't got fleas...ha ha ha)........they do squiggle around some.
1607650890471.jpeg
 
I have a -25° sleeping bag that keeps me warm. If I am still cold, additional blankets to pile on.
 
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Do you use an annex room?

Last time we were in real cold weather we set a mr buddy heater down on the ground and left the tent part door open. Heat would rise right up. It was toasty!
I have used an annex room before. Typically we don't use it in all circumstances, but I have used your trick before (borrowing a heater from a friend) and it does help to take the chill off at night!
 
My wife and I have camped in many a cold areas throughout the years, some ground tent camping and the rest in our RTT. We have two double person sleeping bags, one 20* and the other 60*, AND individual sleeping bag liners. For RTT camping we have a 4" pad and depending on the season the double bag with the liners is more than enough with joint body heat.

This past summer in Wyoming we had the 60* bag and it was dropping low 40s at night. We dropped the tent flaps and my wife used the liner, but I was too warm and had the bag unzipped.
 
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Note: I have never used a RTT, but I routinely tent camp and backpack well below zero.

Focus on personal insulation as much as possible.

1st, and probably most important, is the mattress or pad you use. Modern mattresses are rated with an R-value. Look for an air mattress or pad with an ASTM F3340 compliant R-value above 6.

Here is a really good multipurpose camping pad:
https://www.rei.com/product/148193/rei-co-op-camp-bed-self-inflating-sleeping-padYou probably wouldn't want to take it backpacking but for most kinds of all season car camping it will work great.

The pad is very important because much of your heat is lost through conduction through the ground or whatever is underneath you. When you lie in your sleeping bag, you compress all of the insulation underneath you, rendering it nearly useless. However, you only partially compress a pad, so it will retain most of its insulating properties. The pad becomes even more important when there is airflow underneath, such as on a cot, in a RTT, or in a truck bed.

Note that typical air mattresses are very poor insulators. Self-inflating pads are usually much better insulated.

Next is the sleeping bag. Modern sleeping bags are rated using the EN/ISO standard. The EN/ISO standard generally has a "Comfort" and a "Lower Limit" rating. The "Comfort" rating is what most people should buy to. The "Lower Limit" isn't a guarantee you'll be warm, just more of a recommendation that you probably won't die of hypothermia. (Chances are you will be uncomfortable at those temps.)

The ratings assume you use the sleeping bag in its most warm position, i.e., supine and with the drawstring pulled as far shut as you can while still being able to breathe. You can always open up the drawstring and unzip the bag to let some air out.

You'll want a bag that has a comfort rating no higher than the coldest possible night you expect. It's easier to open it up than to try and layer past its rating.

Here is a pretty popular bag that is EN/ISO rated:
https://www.rei.com/product/136215/rei-co-op-down-time-0-down-sleeping-bagNote that the Comfort and Lower Limit ratings differ from the advertised rating. This is typical across all brands.

If the bag is not listed as EN/ISO rated, chances are it uses a proprietary rating system that is not comparable to other manufacturers. These ratings are generally "survival" ratings, or ratings that say you probably won't wake up dead. If it is not rated, add about 15-20 degrees or so above the listed rating and pretend that is the comfort rating.

Here is a good inexpensive winter camping bag, but note it is not EN/ISO rated:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077NR4VCZ/?tag=wranglerorg-20closer.
This one would be great for winter camping near a car, but not so much for backpacking. I'm actually buying one of these for myself.

There are three major types of bag fills:

Synthetic - cheap, warm, bulky, and heavy. Retains much of its insulating value when wet. Tends to be pretty durable. Very popular among campers who don't have to carry stuff very far.

Down: Expensive, warmer, lighter, and more compressible. Great for backpacking. Loses much of its insulating value when wet. Generally doesn't last as long as synthetic, but higher performance.

Water repellant down: Most expensive, lightest, warmer, more compressible. Doesn't lose much heat if it gets wet. Like normal down, doesn't last as long as synthetic, but very high performance. Highly popular among backpackers and mountaineers.

The pad and the bag are by far the most important items. But there are other items that can help a lot.

Sleeping bag liners like the Thermolite Reactor and Reactor Extreme can provide a small boost in warmth. I would suggest they add roughly 2/3rds what they advertise as a rule of thumb.

A pillow with fill will generally insulate better than a fully inflatable pillow.

Wear a thick stocking cap to help add some insulation to your head.

Avoid wearing tight clothes like tight socks and tightly fitting baselayer that can restrict circulation, unless you like cold feet.

Bring a set of loose clothes solely for sleeping. Even in cold weather, you tend to work up sweat when moving around, and mildly damp underlayers will significantly impact your temperature.

Eat something sugary or carb-y before going to bed. S'mores are perfect, but even just a handful of random snack foods is good.

Never pull your face into the sleeping bag. Sure it feels great at first, but all of the moisture in your breath will condense and make you much colder.

Always hydrate before sleeping. It is far better to have to get up and pee in the middle of the night than to be cold because you're dehydrated. When you're dehydrated, your blood volume drops, and less blood will get to your extremities. (And if you wake up needing to pee - just GO. Trust me.) Bring an old Gatorade bottle if you know you'll need to pee.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, so much for your time and your help.

Your tips are amazing, and I look forward to using all of them.

I really appreciate you taking the time to explain everything to me. This way everything made perfect sense.

Have fun out there and thank you again so much for your opinions.
 
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My wife and I have camped in many a cold areas throughout the years, some ground tent camping and the rest in our RTT. We have two double person sleeping bags, one 20* and the other 60*, AND individual sleeping bag liners. For RTT camping we have a 4" pad and depending on the season the double bag with the liners is more than enough with joint body heat.

This past summer in Wyoming we had the 60* bag and it was dropping low 40s at night. We dropped the tent flaps and my wife used the liner, but I was too warm and had the bag unzipped.
Thank you so much for your time and your help!

Who makes the products that you use?
 
Another insulated sleeping pad to take a look at is the Thermarest Mondoking. Unlike normal blow up mattresses it has significant insulation (R-value of 7.0) but still has the comfort of a deeper mattress. Only downsides are that it is bulky and not cheap.

https://www.thermarest.com/sleeping...t/mondoking-3d-sleeping-pad/mondoking-3d.html
If you store your self-inflating pads with the valve open and the mattress inflated, it helps the mattress retain its loft and insulating power. Most pads can be easily stored under a bed unrolled and inflated.

Same rule applies to sleeping bags. Store them uncompressed when not in use. I usually hang them in hangers in my closet.
 
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