Weld it or cut it?

Goatman

TJ Expert
Original poster
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Joined
Apr 23, 2019
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5,040
Location
Upstate NY
Removing the rear bumper. New one should be here today. This is on driver's side. All the others came out fine. The nut inside the frame broke loose and is just spinning free. Should I just cut the bolt off or drill a big hole to tack weld the nut back on? Or a better idea?
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Try prying down on the tow hook and impact the bolt out if possible. It’ll help bind up the nut-sert inside the frame.
 
There not a nut-sert there, it was a nut with little plate tacked to it you would hold onto to tighten the bolt, Just cut if off, you can fish a washer and a nut through the larger hole next to the one you are working on and tighten with an impact. Just did this yesterday in fact.
P.S. the rust I see on some of your rigs just freaks me out, but it is what it is I guess.
 
Does Vice Grip or another locking plier brand make a long nose 90 degree tool?
 
Tried the pull down and impact it off trick. Fail. I see a sawsall in the near future. Thanks for all the feedback. I did look underneath again and found the oval hole next to it. I'll fish out the nut when I cut the bolt. Why they use a 4 inch bolt so the exposed threads can mung up the nut is strange. All the bolts I've pulled out of the frame are way too long.
This is near perfect as far as rust goes here in NY. Other than by the gas tank and some on the front spring body mount it is in really good shape. And it is all just surface rust. Wire brush and a dab of paint an she'll be as good as new👍.Thanks guys.
 
Personally I’d go with a 4” grinder and a cut-off wheel on that bolt. If you don’t have a one, Harbor Freight grinders are very inexpensive and more than sufficient for the occasional user.
 
Ran into the same issue removing the tow hitch on mine. We cut the bolt head off and was able to remove the nut/cut off bolt thru the slot on the frame. The nut broke free of the plate.
Ended up heating the nut and removing the cut off bolt portion with it in the vice and on the bench. Then welded the nut back to the plate. Ended up selling the hitch.

I would only use stainless if you can verify the strength of the bolt. Otherwise normal bolt and never seize it well.
 
I found that bolts threaded upward and salted for years then to "become one" and heat is usually the only way to get them apart.
 
It's odd. All the other bolts came out with just a tug to break torque and then easily thread out. Oh well, it's off now.