What all do I need to do to upgrade a stock 06 Automatic Rubicon to 35"?

CybrSlydr

CybrSlydr

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Want to put together a list of all the bits-and-bobs, along with anything that would be good to do while all the bits-and-bobs are off and offering access, that I would need to upgrade to 35" tires.

What I can think of off the top of my head is:
35" tires (duh - but can I use the wheels I already have?)
1" body lift
3" suspension lift
5.38 gears (I believe you folks say Revolution are the best? https://www.revolutiongear.com/prod...frontrear_w_timken_master_overhaul_kits_comes)

Since I have a Rubicon, I already have the SYE. I'm also looking at upgrading the steering components to the ZJ stuff (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/zj-tie-rod-conversion.2373/).

Want to get as close to an "all-in" price as I can so I can start saving/budgeting for it.

EDIT: I'm going to upgrade the steering first, which is why I'm asking about the Currie stuff first.

The Currie CurrectLync says it's for vehicles with a 4" lift only? But the description says it fits stock. Which is it? lol
 
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There are a number of paths to get to your desired destination. I'll mention a couple of the hot topics that should be considered.
- Adjustable control arms will be required to correct you suspension geometry.
-Adjustable track bars will also be needed. Chances are you'll need to change to angle of the mount on the rear bar at the axle. There are a couple ways to do this.
-Many will suggest upgrading your brakes. There are ways to get by without this one. Do your own homework here.
-Assuming your suspension lift comes with correcting the bump stops and the correct length shocks.
 
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You'll need a 1 1/4" body lift to Clear the 4-1 Transfer Case on a Rubicon. The Curry CurrectLync will work with shorter/stock lifts but you have to use at least a 2" bump stop to make sure the added length of the drag link isn't bottoming out on articulation. May not be an issue with a 3" lift. I'd go with 4" Curry springs as it gives optimum articulation and shock choices. I'm going with a 2-2.5" lift for 33" tires because I'm short and don't want to have to carry a ladder to get in and out. Will suffer any loss of up articulation to keep the height within my capabilities.

This is my jeep on 32" tires, 17" JK Moab rims, 1 1/4" Savvy body lift, stock springs.

IMG_1442.jpeg
If you like the CrispyCream look, stock 15" wheels will work with 35" tires and are cheaper. Narrower rim width retains the bead at low aired down pressures which is an advantage.
 
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You've done your research, glad you learned 5.38 is the best ratio for 35's given your automatic transmission. And you'll need the "thick" version of the 5.38 gears due to your Rubicon lockers being for 3.73 and numerically lower ratios. Revolution Gear has the correct thick 5.38 gears.

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I would however recommend a 4" suspension lift plus the 1" body lift for 35's if you want to go offroading much. A 3" plus body lift is barely enough for 35's for offroading.

Currie's Currectlync is indeed the best choice for that size tire, it'll work perfectly with a 4" suspension lift. Its drag link might be a tad too long for a 3" but the threaded ends of its drag link could be slightly shortened to allow its use on a 3", though I really would go for a 4" suspension lift. Slightly shortening the drag link for a 3" suspension lift would mean no need for taller bump stops up front.

Factory wheels have too much backspacing for 35x12.50 tires, it's either 5.25" or 5.5" depending on what you have. That just means the wheels are positioned inward so much that the inside sidewalls of 12.5" wide tires would rub on the suspension during turns. I'd go for no more than 4" of backspacing, 3.75" is common and easily found. Forget the term 'offset' for wheels, that's a term that is more for car wheels and is a different measurement from backspacing.

You'll need a replacement rear DC (double-cardin which is also known as a CV/constant velocity) driveshaft. I'd get with @Shawn Wood at www.4xshaftfor that, their pre and post-sales support is unsurpassed. Because you have a Rubicon you will not need a SYE kit to be installed in the transfer case.

Finally you'll need adjustable length control arms, I'd go for any that have Currie's Johnny Joint flex joints. www.rockjock4x4.com sells Currie's. Core4x4 also has adjustable length control arms that also use Johnny Joints. That's a superb trouble-free flex joint you'll never regret having gone with. Mine are 14 years old and never a problem despite a lot of hard use.
 
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roverhi said:
You'll need a 1 1/4" body lift to Clear the 4-1 Transfer Case on a Rubicon. ..
Click to expand...

The 241 clears the body just fine with the stock skid and no body lift.

roverhi said:
... The Curry CurrectLync will work with shorter/stock lifts but you have to use at least a 2" bump stop to make sure the added length of the drag link isn't bottoming out on articulation. ...
Click to expand...

My Currie steering has never required additional bump stop extension. And the Jeep has always had less than 2" of bump stop extension.
 
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CybrSlydr said:
Want to get as close to an "all-in" price as I can so I can start saving/budgeting for it.
Click to expand...
A few more things.
Your front transmission pan skid will hit the front driveshaft.
You will need to modify it or replace with an aftermarket one.
If you don't already have an aux. transmission cooler, you should consider getting one.
After doing the body lift, you may want to do a motor mount lift.
The body lift may also affect the operation of the transfer case linkage.
 
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This really sounds like I need to find a shop that's familiar with this process and can do it. A LOT more you guys are cluing me in on that I hadn't anticipated - thanks for that thread, that's a massive help!
 
CybrSlydr said:
This really sounds like I need to find a shop that's familiar with this process and can do it. A LOT more you guys are cluing me in on that I hadn't anticipated - thanks for that thread, that's a massive help!
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t, you have a support system here. Use it and do it yourself.
 
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CybrSlydr said:
That'd be awesome, but I have no place to do the work. I also don't trust myself to do this kind of stuff. Let alone any of the tools.
Click to expand...

You can do all of it but the gears with a $120 harbor freight tool set. And it can be done in a driveway.
 
Whether you decide to do the work or not, it’s really helpful to understand why the work is needed.

That knowledge will pay dividends down the road trying to diagnose issues (and how serious they are).

If you’re insistent on using a shop, it’s probably worthwhile to learn why you need new control arms, gears, trac bars, relocation brackets, new bump stops, etc. it’s easy to feel overwhelmed with this but I’d recommend starting with 1 and learning a ton about it.

This knowledge will help you pick quality parts. Especially when shops recommend crappy ones. (Difference between buy once cry once and replacing a year from now once you know better).
 
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A lift isn’t that hard, done two of them. And plan on doing a third tomorrow on my daughters Jeep. Just takes some time. If you do it I recommend using the tamper bolt marking stuff. It’s great, take a look under your Jeep and at a glance you can tell if the bolt / nuts have moved. Also a great way to know what you’ve already torqued.
 
jjvw said:
The 241 clears the body just fine with the stock skid and no body lift.



My Currie steering has never required additional bump stop extension. And the Jeep has always had less than 2" of bump stop extension.
Click to expand...

Currie says you need at least a 2" bump stop extension for their steering gear on any lift from 0-4". You also may need to do other mod's to fit the CurrectLync.

Savvy's reason for the extra 1/4" is that the NP241 Transfer case is slightly taller than the 231 and the added lift height insures that it won't be resting against the tub like it might with only a 1" lift.

There seems to be a lot of small variances in spacing/location of various bits on TJ/LJ's so what works for some may not work for others. Currie and Savvy are probably making their designs and recommendation for additional mods based on actual experience with some jeeps. If you don't follow their recommendations, you take your chances for additional effort/time to make things work and/or void the warranty. As you gain experience you find out where you can save some time and effort but learning can be painful when you have to re-do things 2 or more times, run to the store for special tools, and/or practice advance Yoga for long periods to get things done.
 
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roverhi said:
Currie says you need at least a 2" bump stop extension for their steering gear on any lift from 0-4". You also may need to do other mod's to fit the CurrectLync.

...
Click to expand...

I know what Currie says. I have both their steering and track bar installed without 2" of bump stop extension, despite what they say. There is no specific mechanical reason why they would say this other than as a CYA statement.

roverhi said:
....

Savvy's reason for the extra 1/4" is that the NP241 Transfer case is slightly taller than the 231 and the added lift height insures that it won't be resting against the tub like it might with only a 1" lift.

...
Click to expand...

Then explain why there are so many stock Rubicons rolling around with 241s and no body lifts. I know full well why that extra quarter inch of body lift is valuable. But the OP isn't asking about anything related to why that might matter.

roverhi said:
...

There seems to be a lot of small variances in spacing/location of various bits on TJ/LJ's so what works for some may not work for others. Currie and Savvy are probably making their designs and recommendation for additional mods based on actual experience with some jeeps. If you don't follow their recommendations, you take your chances for additional effort/time to make things work and/or void the warranty. As you gain experience you find out where you can save some time and effort but learning can be painful when you have to re-do things 2 or more times, run to the store for special tools, and/or practice advance Yoga for long periods to get things done.
Click to expand...

Which is why it is valuable to pay some attention to those who know how these things fit together out in the wild.
 
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roverhi said:
Savvy's reason for the extra 1/4" is that the NP241 Transfer case is slightly taller than the 231 and the added lift height insures that it won't be resting against the tub like it might with only a 1" lift.
Click to expand...
If ... the OP was installing a Savvy or similar raised skid plate. Even then the tub can require some massaging to provide the needed clearance, Clarence.
 
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