Your frame looks very, very clean inside. So that's after pressure washing it?
Yep.
First we blew the rails out as best we could using my homemade "TJ Frame Blow-Out Air Gun" and then I drilled my holes and de-burred them. After that we ran about a liter of pre-mixed degreaser through the pressure washer with a soap tip to make it foamy. It seemed to really get the degreaser into all the cracks and crevices, including in the slightly rusted areas. I let that sit for about 15 minutes. (you should not allow the degreaser to dry on the metal for some reason.) Then we used the excellent Clog Hog through the access holes I drilled for it. We used the version called the Needle Nose that is only 25' long and that has a shorter and more narrow tip. I found that a 5/8" hole allows this thing to easily enter the frame rail through the rear crossmember "cap" the bumper mounts to. We ended up running it from the rear to the front and back about three times to get all the degreaser out and to blow out any remaining rust chips, scale and pebbles. We then used the homemade frame air gun again to blow out as much of the standing water as we could remove.
We then let the frame dry in that nice, 70º weather we were having the other day.
After about two hours we came out and used the endoscope to look for water. We saw none. So we blew it out again to be safe and then taped off every single hole in the frame on all four faces of each rail. (The Eastwood runs badly and the overspray is nasty, sticky stuff. I wanted this to be as clean as I could get it on the first shot.) After the taping we opened up each hole we wanted to use one at a time and applied the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating.
[Frame drain hole proof-of-concept: When we finished and unmasked everything the Eastwood POURED out of the holes next to all the LCA brackets as well as the ones I had added to the very ends of each rail. POURED.]
We used three cans and all of it stayed in the rails including the fumes for about a half an hour, so the bottom face of each rail received a huge amount of this stuff. I am guessing it will take all of the rest of January and some of February to fully harden and cure due to the cold. We shall see about that over time.
Anyway, the rails received what looks to be a very heavy coating with even coverage and pretty darn good adhesion due to the use of the degreaser.
Being able to fully access the insides of the rails made all this possible. It's amazing what you can do to help your frame when you decide to correct Jeep's oversight and add in those drain holes *and* you add those two 5/8" access holes in the end cap crossmember. Amazing. It just becomes so much more easy to figure out how to address the rust and filth.
I am guessing you could further spray in Fluid Film using the Eastwood 24" spray hoses. I used only one for my three cans, so I have two left. I will have to see if they can be used on my cans of Kroil, PB Blaster, Fluid Film, and other stuff like that. Eastwood sells just the hoses for like $8 each. Handy things to have, to be sure.
