What did you do to your TJ today?

Viking Jeeper said:
Yes, and they also come with parts needed to use Bestop Element soft uppers.
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I have a set of really nice factory 1/2 doors. However, given the crazy prices, scarcity, and the fact that I've now dented my last two sets, I'm considering getting trails doors. Trail doors for the 1/2 doors, now I know I have a problem! o_O
 
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Apparition said:
Could possibly use industrial strength velcro for the storage pockets.
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I have considered that but for the time being I will be switching between trail, half, no, full doors depending on type of wheeling, distance and weather so having a storage solution that only goes with the trail doors may not be all that useful.
 
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CharlesHS said:
Be careful allowing your Jeep to get caught in the rain....
The water intrusion in the proximity of your steering column may cause problems with the clock spring and multi function switch which will reek havoc on your steering column electronics.
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Yeah I had her at work and thought I would make it home before the sky opened up. I keep a tarp and bungee cords in it and cover up in the event of rain....this was a pop up that I thought I could miss...damn NC summer weather is like Florida summer weather sunny 1 minute dark & stormy the next. She is home today covered up because of the rain on and off.
 
CharlesHS said:
Doubtful that the adhesive for the velcro would last very long.
Here is Florida the sun is COOKING hot and will soften the adhesive on the velcro.
Tried velcro on several occasions and the adhesive sooner or later will let go.
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I fastened my tailgate table to the tailgate with gorilla double sided tape and its still holding well! Rivets for the table to the hinge but tried the tape for hinge to tailgate and it shows no sign of weakening.

IMG_6601.JPG
 
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CharlesHS said:
Doubtful that the adhesive for the velcro would last very long.
Here is Florida the sun is COOKING hot and will soften the adhesive on the velcro.
Tried velcro on several occasions and the adhesive sooner or later will let go.
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True, that's something to consider. I've used it on some surprising items up here in the north though. Plus those items held through 100+ weather in Moab and on the Rubicon.
 
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I still need to wire them in with my 9” frying pans up front, which I wired in with OEM high beam , this way I don’t have to fumble around for the separate switch when meeting traffic
• I have the new HID’s pointing in the ditches
 
Apparition said:
Could possibly use industrial strength velcro for the storage pockets.
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I had toyed with the idea. I have a roll of 2" industrial. The bag side would have held the adhesive I think, it is not neoprene or nylon, more like a drybag material or a drysuit for divers. After reading the genright instructions, were you had to burn the holes anyway, I decided this would be clean enough. The round head of the BHCS is pretty smooth.
 
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Viking Jeeper said:
One of the reasons I skipped the UCF doors and went with JCR is that there are no rivets, its all bent 3/ 16 aluminum. Of course if I decided on the storage pockets something would have to be used. They also come with factory style hinges that only need to be drilled and tapped for factory mirrors.

https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/TJHD.html
View attachment 266186
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I left my factory mirrors on the doors. I put on some QD CJ style mirrors mounted to the pillar. When I swap back to the factory doors, I will just pull the pillar mirrors and the mount is all that is left. The rivets may be a problem later down the road, but it's simple to drill them out and replace with the same type I put on for the bags.
 
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Irun said:
Since I'm going to install Savvy armor, I'd like to keep the look consistent with countersunk stainless steel Philips- head bolts. I'd want to drill out all the rivets, drill countersunk holes, then replace the rivets with 5/16-18 Phillips-head bolts. It's hard to tell from the picture, so from your perspective is there enough room to do countersunk holes? Obviously doing this in a way that maintains strength also depends on the material thickness. 1/8" isn't very thick, so I don't know if this would work. Maybe @mrblaine can chime in on the idea?
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If you are talking about the doors specifically, then either 1/4-20 or 10/32 flathead screws on the doors. I have built stuff with flat heads in thin material, the trick is to make sure it does not bottom out on the threaded area, you can CS the thread a little too.
 
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Hydro assist steering question……..

there was a thread showing how to chop the PSC ram threads down somewhere. I have tried numerous terms but cannot find it, anyone remember or were participating in the thread??
 
CharlesHS said:
When trying to loosen the shock bolts I usually tighten slightly, loosen slightly, tighten, loosen and continue with this sequence until the bolt can be turned freely a complete turn or two in each direction to ensure the threads clear themselves of rust debris so they don't bind up and snap off.
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X2. Also when i did it i just used a 3/8 ratchet so i lower the chance of snapping them, i also found a spare socket i had laying around and grinded the end of it to make the edge flat, so it had full contact on the bolt, lowering the chance of rounding it off. And used a swivel extension to get full contact. I didn’t take any chances lol, and none broke!
 
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