What did you do to your TJ today?

Arthurius said:
Last night I installed a USASPEC PA11-CHR adapter. About $75 on amazon, Its a dated piece of tech that allows you to remove the 11-pin connector on the back of your radio (mines an RBQ radio) and then a small junction box allows for the use of an old iPod 30-pin connector to play music. I don't have an iPod, but the junction box also allows for an RCA input. So now I have an aux input to my factory RBQ radio! I'll make a little write up on it this weekend, as I don't find much info on the PA11-CHR on the site.
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I ran my MP3 player through a USA*SPEC adapter in my F250 for years, great option for older stereos
 
Irun said:
(y) Life is worth far more than a $60 pair of jack stands! For anyone else out here that needs some, I have three sets of these that I use religiously. The bonus on this particular stand is the "mobility pin", which is a double safety lock that prevents them from collapsing. They are relatively inexpensive for a 6 ton stand and worth every penny!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074R17GL4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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I use the same ones. Bought them after my HF stands got recalled.

I don't mess around with that stuff under a vehicle. My grandfather almost got killed when a car fell on him (before I was born). Fortunately he could get just enough air in his lungs to scream for help and tell my grandmother how to get him out. That story put the fear in me.
 
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DETOUR said:
Irun

Kudos to ya
For using jackstands !!!

Every time I see that people only relying on hydraulic jacks,widow makers or any other form of hoisting without using blocking of some sort, I cringe !

Do yourself and your family a favour a
DO NOT
become a statistic

Take care

DETOUR
~•lllllll•~👋🏿

GOIN THE XTRA MILE - it’s never crowded
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I can't see a jack stand in the pics on my computer. Am I missing something?
 
Decided to go back to a stock shift knob. There's just something so perfect about it.

20220106_221229.jpg
 
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freedom_in_4low said:
I use the same ones. Bought them after my HF stands got recalled.

I don't mess around with that stuff under a vehicle. My grandfather almost got killed when a car fell on him (before I was born). Fortunately he could get just enough air in his lungs to scream for help and tell my grandmother how to get him out. That story put the fear in me.
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Me three. My only minor bitch is that the pin is ALWAYS on the "wrong" side - I glare at it then give it the old reach-around. It is, after all, common courtesy. ;)
 
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mrblaine said:
When you turn the hub lock to unlocked, does the actuator knob rattle in and out?
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Definitely no observable looseness (in/out) in the unlocked position at least so far. Everything is still stiff, new, and somewhat cold in my garage but the unlock position has sort of a detent on the back side of the actuator knob and it seems to sort of snap into the unlocked position thanks to that detent.

I would expect any looseness in the actuator knob to occur in the locked position since the spring that causes the engagement doesn't really seem very strong. I wonder if a Warn spring would be stiffer. Again, no looseness yet but as soon as I get it drivable again, I'll take it out for a spin and get everything warmed up. Breaking in the new BMB brake pads should get everything nicely heated up if the weather isn't too cold. Then I can check everything carefully again.

For anyone interested, this is a Reid knuckle, 5x5.5 locking hub conversion. I got the knuckles from @mattcogdell. And the big brake kit came from @mrblaine at Black Magic Brakes. So thanks to both of those guys! The setup uses a mid-seventies 4x4 spindle, stub shaft, etc. To get the 5x5.5 lug pattern, I'm using a Ford hub. BMB supplied the calipers, pads, rotors and all the bits needed to mount it up to the knuckle/spindle.

The knuckles are not being produced any longer so this is not a viable option for most.
 
g.hayduke said:
Definitely no observable looseness (in/out) in the unlocked position at least so far. Everything is still stiff, new, and somewhat cold in my garage but the unlock position has sort of a detent on the back side of the actuator knob and it seems to sort of snap into the unlocked position thanks to that detent.

I would expect any looseness in the actuator knob to occur in the locked position since the spring that causes the engagement doesn't really seem very strong. I wonder if a Warn spring would be stiffer. Again, no looseness yet but as soon as I get it drivable again, I'll take it out for a spin and get everything warmed up. Breaking in the new BMB brake pads should get everything nicely heated up if the weather isn't too cold. Then I can check everything carefully again.

For anyone interested, this is a Reid knuckle, 5x5.5 locking hub conversion. I got the knuckles from @mattcogdell. And the big brake kit came from @mrblaine at Black Magic Brakes. So thanks to both of those guys! The setup uses a mid-seventies 4x4 spindle, stub shaft, etc. To get the 5x5.5 lug pattern, I'm using a Ford hub. BMB supplied the calipers, pads, rotors and all the bits needed to mount it up to the knuckle/spindle.

The knuckles are not being produced any longer so this is not a viable option for most.
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Apologies, I meant in the position when the spring is fully extended so opposite of Warn. The 5.5 hardcore hubs and the ones for the F-450 hubs have a small bit of play in them when they aren't holding the ring with the two ears on it back. About 15-20 thou so the knob is a tiny bit rattly. The only way I can see to get rid of it is to add some bit of weld or braze to the top of the two ears so the spring in the extended position still holds a small bit of tension on the knob. It is Yukon though, to be expected.
 
John Cooper said:
Yep woke up on the mountain this morning with Temps in the teens. I don't think it ever got above 34 today.
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We are hitting night teens at night here and 26-28 during the day.... oh wait that's Celsius not Fahrenheit ☀️ ...(I'll go back to sleep now)
 
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