Finished up the aftermarket transfer case shift knob project:
So the 2nd shifter lever worked without issues?
Looks fantastic and this is how it should have come from factory. I am going to do this as well.
Finished up the aftermarket transfer case shift knob project:
Finished up the aftermarket transfer case shift knob project:
View attachment 59020 View attachment 59021 View attachment 59022
Not exactly. I had to trim about 3/16" off the end and drill a new hole for the clip. After that, it worked like advertised. The first lever would probably have worked also if I had done the same thing...So the 2nd shifter lever worked without issues?
Looks fantastic and this is how it should have come from factory. I am going to do this as well.
Got a replacement shift rod, but it was a bit too long again. I trimmed this one, drilled a new hole for the clip, and it worked perfectly. I ended up using the smaller knob I originally bought.So what ended up happening? If you already updated I missed it.
Got a replacement shift rod, but it was a bit too long again. I trimmed this one, drilled a new hole for the clip, and it worked perfectly. I ended up using the smaller knob I originally bought.
No telling...both rods, compared to the oem, were just too long after the bottom bend. I could tell right away when I held it up against the oem lever, and tried to install it. Quick work with the cutoff wheel and drill press had it fixed in a few minutes. What changed from yours to mine is anyone's guess.Weird I wonder if there is a difference between years or the fact that mine is a Manual vs your Automatic, but I got lucky first try. Sorry you had issues, but I am glad you worked them out.
Thanks for the compliment. All it needs now is a Savvy shift cable attached to the other end...So the 2nd shifter lever worked without issues?
Looks fantastic and this is how it should have come from factory. I am going to do this as well.
Thanks for the compliment. All it needs now is a Savvy shift cable attached to the other end...
Or a RubiCrawler, with its own twin shifters and cables in its place.
Agreed. With 32" tires, I don't really need any more lift or even that wished-for Exogate. Savvy control arms are not really necessary, or even the Antirock, for what I use my Jeep for. With a RubiCrawler, though, I just might change how I use my TJ dramatically...I know a spot west of where I live that I have avoided for years due to the abundance of sandy washes. I could never keep up with my 4:1 transfer case...that would be my first destination.The RubiCrawler intrigues me as well. I'm not sure I really need it but from what I'm reading, it's a very good and well thought out product that really adds capability to the TJ with 42RLE. I'm hoping @Chris gives us his full unbiased critique when he gets his Jeep back from Jeep West.
Agreed. With 32" tires, I don't really need any more lift or even that wished-for Exogate. Savvy control arms are not really necessary, or even the Antirock, for what I use my Jeep for. With a RubiCrawler, though, I just might change how I use my TJ dramatically...I know a spot west of where I live that I have avoided for years due to the abundance of sandy washes. I could never keep up with my 4:1 transfer case...that would be my first destination.
The RubiCrawler intrigues me as well. I'm not sure I really need it but from what I'm reading, it's a very good and well thought out product that really adds capability to the TJ with 42RLE. I'm hoping @Chris gives us his full unbiased critique when he gets his Jeep back from Jeep West.
Read this guys review and then you may change your mind![]()
Wow, How does a gear shop miss that? From looking at the order, to looking at the box the ring and pinion came in, to installation of said gears...no one noticed? Good to hear you are happy with the 4.88, though. The only thing I can think of is they had Ford 8.8 on the brain, and that transferred over to 4.88 gearing...Just got mine back today from the shop. Normally I wouldn't take my TJ to the shop, but these were circumstances out of my control. For those following along. I had a shop build my Ford 8.8 rear diff with 4:56 gears and a elocker while they were in welding up the TJ garb. Mostly so I wouldn't have any downtime, and I all I would have to do is install the new rear end. Then a couple of weeks later, I put the front 4:56 and Eaton E-locker in the front.
When I went to go test drive, I put it in 4 wheel drive, and it popped out. (Thanks to the transfer case for being smarter than me) Then I put it in 2 wheel drive and it worked fine, so I put it in 4 low, and again the TC popped out of gear again. I immediately pulled it back into my shop, and did a quick wheel to driveline ratio turn to see what was up. Sure enough the Shop effed up, and put 4:88 gears in the rear. WTF right? So the next day I called them up, and they didn't believe me and told me to pull the cover, of which I gladly did, so I could get a good shot of their work. I must say they did a great job of installing the wrong gears. So anyway I counted the teeth, and sure enough they were 4:88s in the rear, and now I put 4:56 in the front. I took a day to think about what I wanted to do, and I decided I liked the 4:88 gears better, and asked if they would just put 4:88's up front to match the rears. The agreed and didn't costing me anything.
So it was unfortunate, but the end result is good. I am not sure how I feel about having both my front, and rear gears done by some one else, but actually these guys build rock crawlers and axles everyday, so they are probably better than me anyway, but it begs the question if they are so good, how the hell did they get the wrong gears in there.
I asked them when I picked it up, if they counted the gear teeth in the front this time, and they didn't think it was as funny as I did, but they answered with a big fat yes haha.
So today, I finally got front and rear Eaton E-lockers and 4:88 gears.
(I still have to wire up the fronts and add the switch to the dash, but at least the gears and lockers are all in)