What did you do to your TJ today?

Almost 3 weeks ago, out with the old:
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....and in with the new:
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And the a/c is still blowing cold with no indications of any leaks!

Sunday, I put a new front driveshaft in from Tom Woods. So front and rear match now.

I have to park up on a hill at work and usually back into my spot to avoid getting hit by lot lizards when backing out. So the Jeep is looking at me, and me at it while walking up the hill after work. Since putting the new ball joints and wheel hubs on, sure is nice having the camber fixed on the front wheels!

I think the rear main is getting worse as the driver side frame rail and everything over there is getting fairly well lubed. May have to jump on that sooner than planned.
 
Finally got around to installing the longer rear sway bar end links I had laying around for 3 years. Just as I thought, absolutely no difference in handling with the tiny rear bar and the stock links. 10 minutes well spent though. Next up, I guess I'll install the MML I have laying around, even though I have no vibes with the lift. :geek:
p.s. I did spend $8 to color coordinate the bushings with the Jeep.
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Rubi sway bar links.jpg
 
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My landlord hosed down the jeep to help me find a leak in the upper half door seal yesterday, which is what was leading to the aforementioned floor pan rust.
The door seal looks exactly the same as the passenger side (which doesn't leak) but the door itself is seated differently than the passenger side door (I can put my finger in the gap between the door/windshield on the drivers side, where I can't on the passenger's side). I tried re-seating where the door sits this morning and we'll see how it holds up with the rain, but I'm also thinking of straight up just adding some caulking or something to the windshield to help the seal hold better hahah.
 
This is the first time I’ve heard anyone suggest this, but it makes sense. Gas tank is fuel though, didn’t notice a change at half vs full, if that’s makes a difference. I’ll get the TPS thrown up, because who doesn’t like new parts and follow up with this if I still don’t see an improvement.

Being pretty new to some of this, would the delivery issue be an electron/sensor issue or a physical problem like a blockage in the rail or failing injector?
Hard to tell without doing the fuel pump press test at the rail, should be around 49psi iirc. If it's low then may be beginning to starve the engine, but in theory if the the tank is full then the pump works more efficiently, so the psi may be a little higher. As the fuel level drops more air in the system at the tank, makes the fuel pump work harder (gravity). Liquids (volume) don't compress while air obviously air does. When you turn or break hard, the fuel sloshes around and can put more work on the pump. If the pump is bad, it will just be worse in turns and breaking. It's just good to eliminate this problem or diagnose it by using the fuel pressure tester from Autozone or Advance, most stores have them and will let you use it for free. It only takes a few minutes to test, and you have eliminated that possibility for free, before spending a bunch on other stuff (only to perhaps come back around and test it anyhow). If you do have low press at the rail, either you have a leak (which you would know), or your pump may be bad. Have you checked the gas cap to see if it seals up well? I would make sure about that too during the press test. Just trying to save you some time/$$. Also, be careful about TPS replacement, make sure you go with a Mopar part. The other brands are known to be finicky on Jeeps. Lernt my lesson the hard way on that one. Good luck!!!
 
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My landlord hosed down the jeep to help me find a leak in the upper half door seal yesterday, which is what was leading to the aforementioned floor pan rust.
The door seal looks exactly the same as the passenger side (which doesn't leak) but the door itself is seated differently than the passenger side door (I can put my finger in the gap between the door/windshield on the drivers side, where I can't on the passenger's side). I tried re-seating where the door sits this morning and we'll see how it holds up with the rain, but I'm also thinking of straight up just adding some caulking or something to the windshield to help the seal hold better hahah.

I had a door that didn't seal right and replacing the seal didn't fix it. I ended up buying some soft rubber weather stripping from the home supply store, pulling the rubber seal off the door a little and tucking it in behind. That pushed the seal tighter to the door and the 2 seals …. sealed each other. It worked and you couldn't see it. Just make sure not to direct any water into the inside of your door by opening a new gap.
 
I had a door that didn't seal right and replacing the seal didn't fix it. I ended up buying some soft rubber weather stripping from the home supply store, pulling the rubber seal off the door a little and tucking it in behind. That pushed the seal tighter to the door and the 2 seals …. sealed each other. It worked and you couldn't see it. Just make sure not to direct any water into the inside of your door by opening a new gap.

oh, I like that idea much better than mine. If it still leaks, i'll definitely give that a shot. Thanks!
 
Hard to tell without doing the fuel pump press test at the rail, should be around 49psi iirc. If it's low then may be beginning to starve the engine, but in theory if the the tank is full then the pump works more efficiently, so the psi may be a little higher. As the fuel level drops more air in the system at the tank, makes the fuel pump work harder (gravity). Liquids (volume) don't compress while air obviously air does. When you turn or break hard, the fuel sloshes around and can put more work on the pump. If the pump is bad, it will just be worse in turns and breaking. It's just good to eliminate this problem or diagnose it by using the fuel pressure tester from Autozone or Advance, most stores have them and will let you use it for free. It only takes a few minutes to test, and you have eliminated that possibility for free, before spending a bunch on other stuff (only to perhaps come back around and test it anyhow). If you do have low press at the rail, either you have a leak (which you would know), or your pump may be bad. Have you checked the gas cap to see if it seals up well? I would make sure about that too during the press test. Just trying to save you some time/$$. Also, be careful about TPS replacement, make sure you go with a Mopar part. The other brands are known to be finicky on Jeeps. Lernt my lesson the hard way on that one. Good luck!!!
TPS is Mopar. If there’s one thing that’s been beat into my head in this forum, it Mopar haha

And assuming it’s not the sensor, that will be my next test. Starting to dig into some threads on that now. Appreciate the help.
 
Installed new "Hook Road Grab Handles" and did away with the previous velcro grab handles.

I had these exact handles and sent them back because it seemed I would have to shave off the black plastic trim piece (pictured in the far right on your photo) a bit to get it to 100% fit. Did you have to do any modifications to get them to fit? (I only held it up and eyeballed it and sent them back — I didn't start to install them — probably should have tried.)
 
My landlord hosed down the jeep to help me find a leak in the upper half door seal yesterday, which is what was leading to the aforementioned floor pan rust.
The door seal looks exactly the same as the passenger side (which doesn't leak) but the door itself is seated differently than the passenger side door (I can put my finger in the gap between the door/windshield on the drivers side, where I can't on the passenger's side). I tried re-seating where the door sits this morning and we'll see how it holds up with the rain, but I'm also thinking of straight up just adding some caulking or something to the windshield to help the seal hold better hahah.
In your avatar, it looks like you have half doors with soft windows. If the seals look to be about the same (condition and thickness) on the driver's and passenger's windows, you may have a bent window frame or loose/broken/worn out window pin door inserts. If the inserts seem fairly solid, look at the distance between the window itself, not the rubber seal, compared to the passenger's side. If the driver's side is out substantially away from the windshield A-pillar, then the window frame is probably bent...likely from someone closing it with something in the way. Bending it back can be a pain because they really don't want to bend easily and you have to apply some considerable force. You have to be careful not to damage your window material and/or the door in the process. Having access to someone with a bench vise that's willing to help could be good, just bend a little at a time, just a degree or two makes a big difference at the top of the window.

Let me know if you'd like pics of what I'm talking about.

EDIT: note that the inserts come in different colors to match the interior colors that were available; black, spice, agate, and grey.
 
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I had these exact handles and sent them back because it seemed I would have to shave off the black plastic trim piece (pictured in the far right on your photo) a bit to get it to 100% fit. Did you have to do any modifications to get them to fit? (I only held it up and eyeballed it and sent them back — I didn't start to install them — probably should have tried.)
No modifications to install. I saw the plastic trim you are talking about, and was leary about it. I went ahead and tried it. The handles fit up against it without the plastic having to be trimmed.
 
Installed a stock Jeep radio I bought off e bay. It does not work...guess this was a bad move. Now looking for a place to fix it or another radio. No guarantee on this one.
Does it come on at all (display)?
Did you have an unmodified OE wiring harness to hook it to?
A bit more info and maybe we can hep.
 
Banged up my fuel skid several times today on fins and things in Moab Utah. Ran into 2 other guys who were running alone out there themselves & grouped up together. They had helped me navigate some obstacles as well as wait up for me during the whole north loop. Really appreciated their guidance (as a flat lander). One of the step declines I was sure I ripped my bumper off.

Moab isn’t my cup of tea, it was fine with me but I realized I like the trails through the woods much more than this place. My aunt whom went along with me said at one point by the end of the trail she was going to rip the handle above the glovebox off the dash.

definitely doable stock but would be easier with 35” tires, lift & lockers at times Like they were running.
Interesting terrain and sights though.
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I think it's prolly just an experience thing. You're used to navigating the obstacles of the woods and climbing over five-story tall barren rocks is totally new.

I was white knuckling it when I first went out there on the ATV's but, after a day or two, I got used to the fact that we were essentially driving on Velcro with carpeted tires and I really started to enjoy it. It was a total blast after that and I can't wait for TJ Fest in 2021 to try it in my Jeep!
 
I think it's prolly just an experience thing. You're used to navigating the obstacles of the woods and climbing over five-story tall barren rocks is totally new.

I was white knuckling it when I first went out there on the ATV's but, after a day or two, I got used to the fact that we were essentially driving on Velcro with carpeted tires and I really started to enjoy it. It was a total blast after that and I can't wait for TJ Fest in 2021 to try it in my Jeep!

definitely a experience thing, wasn’t white knuckling but a small handful of times out of my experience/confidence. Always better seeing something your uncertain of run before your turn.
 
Replaced blower resistor and fixed cracked retainer on climate regulator knob. Managed not to break anything or drop tiny screws into the dash black hole.
also put new battery terminals screws with accessory extentions to prepare for winch installation. Found Warn M8000 with steel cable, almost new for $300. Hopefully will pick it up tomorrow.

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In your avatar, it looks like you have half doors with soft windows. If the seals look to be about the same (condition and thickness) on the driver's and passenger's windows, you may have a bent window frame or loose/broken/worn out window pin door inserts. If the inserts seem fairly solid, look at the distance between the window itself, not the rubber seal, compared to the passenger's side. If the driver's side is out substantially away from the windshield A-pillar, then the window frame is probably bent...likely from someone closing it with something in the way. Bending it back can be a pain because they really don't want to bend easily and you have to apply some considerable force. You have to be careful not to damage your window material and/or the door in the process. Having access to someone with a bench vise that's willing to help could be good, just bend a little at a time, just a degree or two makes a big difference at the top of the window.

Let me know if you'd like pics of what I'm talking about.

EDIT: note that the inserts come in different colors to match the interior colors that were available; black, spice, agate, and grey.

So they are actually the hard upper half doors, not soft, with the sliding glass windows! Those little inserts could probably use replacing, but the upper seats pretty solidly into the lower half pretty well. Now that you mention it, though... I do wonder if that has something to do with it. Maybe I'll play around with those tomorrow and see what it looks like! Worse case scenario, looks like a cheap part and worth picking up regardless.

There's still a chance that those uppers could be slightly out of wack. They're in good, but I wouldnt say "great" condition and there's always the chance something on them was messed up somewhere along the line, lol.

Thanks for the info!!
 
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