What have you 3D printed for your TJ?

BugoutJeep said:
I think it likes Bambu filaments more than the random cheap stuff I usually get
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I've thrown pretty much everything at mine over the last year and it seems to just handle them all pretty well. I only use bambu's filaments in the AMS and otherwise use a 4 to 1 adapter for leads from other spools I have around (a bunch of prusament, overture, and a ton of other "cheap"-o amazon filaments). I've found the bambu prices are pretty good, meaning sub $20 a roll w/spool, if you buy bulk (>=4 spools at a time) unless you're doing some of the more fancy filaments. The only notable exception for me so far is a fairly soft TPU. It printed really well, but unloading it clogged up the head and was difficult to clear (this may have been my fault, but I will not sure until I need to print TPU again).

The big upgrade I had to make to the X1C was the bed, I use the Textured PEI Plate - and it's sticky (and I really like the finish on the bottom of the prints).
 
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BugoutJeep said:
I still haven't printed anything for the Jeep yet, but eventually I probably will get back around to working on my Jeep in general. Unfortunately I've got too much I need to work on first.

In any case I have been getting back into 3D printing as well and after I've had issues with my Ender 3 v2 Neo, I realized I was simply trying to ask it to do too much. I just picked up a Bambu X1 Carbon with AMS and it's pretty nice and would recommend to anyone starting to probably just get a P1S and the AMS too if you want to go more advanced. I mainly wanted to step up the printer for ABS and a bit faster printing, not to mention just the random stuff I like to work on, especially trying to get my mobile tool setup organized in an efficient and compact manner. Of course I don't really have a good reason of going with the X1 over the P1S, but I really didn't do a crazy amount of research first and a buddy recommended the Bambu X1 series though he admittedly had never used them, but he actually built a very nice Voron printer and I do not need another project, but he felt the Bambu was often kind of a benchmark for what he was had built and what he will build.

I'm not ready to review or anything, but I have been scanning for ideas that I want to print, especially because this printer is so fast I just haven't been able to keep it loaded up. It's not perfect from what I can tell and I think it really prefers keeping everything automatic and I think it likes Bambu filaments more than the random cheap stuff I usually get, but I've also done nothing for it other than put it together in about 30 minutes, download their software and print stuff from my couch and occasionally check on prints from my phone while at work or another room.
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I have a new GMC Sierra with the "special" GMC tailgate. The tailgate had 4 blanking plates that can be customized with lights or a completely separate audio system for tailgating etc. I have neither. A guy on the GMC forum makes small storage boxes that fit in the recess after you remove the blanking plate. I ordered some and I am very impressed with the quality. I asked what printer he was using because I was considering a P1s. Thats exactly what he uses. I'm bleeding cash right now so its going to have to wait a bit.
 
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Steel City 06 said:
One thing I did find out the hard way...
Ultem = PEI

Aka if you print PEI on a PEI bed, you're gonna have REALLY good bed adhesion...
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My ender had a glass bed and the Bambu has the textured PEI. The glass bed was incredibly sticky and in fact I couldn't figure out how to get PETG to stick without ripping off the coating. The PEI bed, I've noticed on usually thin areas, I won't have as much adhesion and coupled with the cheap Amazon filaments, that I just have on hand that I'm working with for practice, I've had some failures. So far my failures were from changing the way the Bambu does supports and I kept losing some adhesion on thin long area. I think the adhesion is also related to just how fast that thing prints. I was watching it last night and when that thing is printing the infill, it's vibrating like crazy, so I just increased my infill and the problem went away and the part really needed it anyway.

I do prefer the PEI bed though, because the glass bed was too sticky. I had to put stuff in the freezer and it was still difficult to release, so maybe keep that in mind if you're having issues with stuff sticking, but I think the PEI is an ideal compromise.
 
Viking Jeeper said:
I have a new GMC Sierra with the "special" GMC tailgate. The tailgate had 4 blanking plates that can be customized with lights or a completely separate audio system for tailgating etc. I have neither. A guy on the GMC forum makes small storage boxes that fit in the recess after you remove the blanking plate. I ordered some and I am very impressed with the quality. I asked what printer he was using because I was considering a P1s. Thats exactly what he uses. I'm bleeding cash right now so its going to have to wait a bit.
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The printer for me is hopefully the last part of my bleeding money for awhile. I will be experimenting with filaments, but not dropping that kind of $$$ for awhile. IMO the printer cost less than a typical laptop I'd get and I tend to use a printer more than my non-work laptop.

I guess it's all perspective. On top of that I find myself needing random pieces of plastic and usually finding those pieces of plastic are minimum $20 and on some older vehicle stuff and when it comes to experimental projects, I find myself sometimes ordering all kinds of various boxes and stuff in the past wasting days if not weeks trying to get the perfect fit/form and probably spend $100+ getting the right box/panel, but now I will mainly just lose a little bit of time.

In any case this is just a very versatile tool and I drop all kinds of $$$ on tools and I've run into instances where factory parts are actually plastic and I know my sister had to wait months without her new vehicle for a plastic housing. With 3D scanning, I hope to be able to print some of that stuff for at least temporary use and that's another reason why I am interested in ABS and some of the more structural filaments as well.
 
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BugoutJeep said:
My ender had a glass bed and the Bambu has the textured PEI. The glass bed was incredibly sticky and in fact I couldn't figure out how to get PETG to stick without ripping off the coating. The PEI bed, I've noticed on usually thin areas, I won't have as much adhesion and coupled with the cheap Amazon filaments, that I just have on hand that I'm working with for practice, I've had some failures. So far my failures were from changing the way the Bambu does supports and I kept losing some adhesion on thin long area. I think the adhesion is also related to just how fast that thing prints. I was watching it last night and when that thing is printing the infill, it's vibrating like crazy, so I just increased my infill and the problem went away and the part really needed it anyway.

I do prefer the PEI bed though, because the glass bed was too sticky. I had to put stuff in the freezer and it was still difficult to release, so maybe keep that in mind if you're having issues with stuff sticking, but I think the PEI is an ideal compromise.
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I normally use the PEI bed for most prints below 350°C. The powder coat bed works well for polycarbonate as well. Magigoo PC makes bed adhesion really good on both beds with polycarbonate, and the parts just pop themselves off as the bed cools off after the print is done.

The problem I had printing PEI is that the filament I was printing was the same material as the bed itself (PEI). (So I had inadvertently welded the part to the bed.)

Getting Ultem to stick to the powdercoated bed was difficult, but there are some good adhesives out there that work well. Key is to keep the enclosure temp at least 90°C (110°+ would be better) and the bed temp at least 155°C, along with adhesive.
 
Intake adapter nipple for the crankcase ventilation intake.
Quick and dirty solution until I can print the entire intake tube.

Printed in Lexan filament (unblended polycarbonate) on a hot rodded Prusa like most of my other stuff.

PXL_20240528_001538993.jpg


PXL_20240528_004518061.jpg
 
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SSTJ said:
Nice. Do you have a file you'd care to share (or sell) over on this thread?
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I’ll see if I can upload an STL later.

Literally just three circular extrusions and three chamfers. 32mm OD base 4mm high, 14mm OD stem about 32mm long, 8mm center hole, 1mm chamfers on the base, 0.5mm on the transition, and 1mm 75-degree chamfer on the tip.
 
Also for anyone wanting to try and make their own parts, Autodesk Fusion 360 is free for hobbyist use with a number of limitations. Just make an account and download. There are free tutorials available. Not quite as easy as Autodesk Inventor or Dassault Systemes SolidWorks, but probably on par with Creo Parametric or AutoCAD in terms of difficulty.

SolidWorks is another option but you have to pay for a hobbyist license.
 
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Steel City 06 said:
Also for anyone wanting to try and make their own parts, Autodesk Fusion 360 is free for hobbyist use with a number of limitations. Just make an account and download. There are free tutorials available. Not quite as easy as Autodesk Inventor or Dassault Systemes SolidWorks, but probably on par with Creo Parametric or AutoCAD in terms of difficulty.

SolidWorks is another option but you have to pay for a hobbyist license.
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I've recently switched from fusion to onshape.

Onshape runs in the browser which means you can switch between tablet and computer and desktop as needed. It's free for hobbyists as well.
 
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rasband said:
The caveat to other free trials/applications is that the models are 100% open source/public (rather than the legal agreement that you cannot do commercial things in others while keeping the model private).
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True! For onshape it's generally impossible to find if you don't give anything a descriptive name. But yes, the free version makes all of your designs open to anyone who can find it.

Autodesk doesn't do that. But you have the perpetual threat of maybe they will lock you out behind a paywall.
 
LittleTankTJ said:
I've recently switched from fusion to onshape.

Onshape runs in the browser which means you can switch between tablet and computer and desktop as needed. It's free for hobbyists as well.
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I have been learning Fusion for about a year, and gave Onshape a try a month or so ago. I just could not get the hang of it. I don't know why, but I really struggled and finally just went back to Fusion.
 
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gbirk said:
I have been learning Fusion for about a year, and gave Onshape a try a month or so ago. I just could not get the hang of it. I don't know why, but I really struggled and finally just went back to Fusion.
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It takes a bit. It's missing some huge features related to parametric modeling where you can dimension on line and then click it to dimension others.
 
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