Yes, it is. But it works fairly well considering the price.
What have you 3D printed for your TJ?
- Thread starter chimmike
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Yes, it is. But it works fairly well considering the price.
I'm an old CAD jockey, 3D modeler and render/animation guy (though not my current employment), so that's never been much of an issue for me...though I am using some pretty dated design software at this point (because I own it and didn't want to move to subscription based stuff that's standard now). For years it's been the opposite for me, being able to develop designs digitally with no way of making them real, until now.
In college I had 1 course for drawing and we used ProE and I've never seen that software since and I didn't like it.
I have some experience with AutoCAD, but without any real training I've picked up on Solidworks with ease and it makes sense to me when I'm designing something. I tried using TinkerCAD on my Mac at home and HATED it. I've got 360 free version downloaded at home, but haven't even tried it yet.
I just don't draw unless I have to and some of this software IMO isn't as simple as something like MS Word.
@Zorba I recently found a smartPHOOOOOONE app called Polycam that creates a 3D mesh based on a group of pictures you take. From my limited trials, output quality is dependent on lighting, subject texture, and thorough-ness of picture-taking. I was impressed that something like it exists but haven’t put it to actual use yet. I think it has potential.
There are some 3D prints as well to assist in scanning in smaller items. Basically they have some sort of phone clamp and then you need like a lazy Susan type turntable.
I've played with the Polycam some, but haven't made a part from it yet. My wife's truck needs a piece for a switch panel on the door and I intend to scan that in and try to make it new from ABS here one of these days.
I know this isn't specifically for a Jeep, but I needed some 1/4" sockets to keep in my general EDC tool bag. So I made the following from TPU custom for a set of Vevor sockets I had from a master kit I found for $20. I had originally planned to design this for a HF set, but the price was too low to pass up.
The 1 thing I haven't added, but because I already have a ratchet in my bag, but I may add a spot to hold a 1/4 ratchet/breaker bar combo, but for my purposes to keep me from having to lug around a full kit all the time and considering I don't usually carry 1/4" sockets in my mobile mechanic set this is a nice addition and it's handy for general house repairs and it's fairly handy in the interior of a vehicle. For me 3/8 sockets are normally about as small as I go and 1/2" to 1" sockets are what I use most for personal stuff around the farm.
The 1 thing I haven't added, but because I already have a ratchet in my bag, but I may add a spot to hold a 1/4 ratchet/breaker bar combo, but for my purposes to keep me from having to lug around a full kit all the time and considering I don't usually carry 1/4" sockets in my mobile mechanic set this is a nice addition and it's handy for general house repairs and it's fairly handy in the interior of a vehicle. For me 3/8 sockets are normally about as small as I go and 1/2" to 1" sockets are what I use most for personal stuff around the farm.
I never got used to it. Our whole course was to make parts EXACTLY how our book was making the parts and I never really understood what I was doing nor had any experiencing designing from scratch.
I actually don't really like to draw on a computer and in so many ways I can't stand being on computers, but it's just life. I mostly like to hand draw everything, but I'm no draftsman either so I'm not drawing in scale and if you want to optimize something you do need to draw to scale and Solidworks is really just where I started. I never really could get comfortable in anything else, but I've got almost 12 years or more with Solidworks. That's not to say I'm good at it, which I'm not but I can do just enough to draw items for welding and machining on manual mills and lathes. I did mess around and learn the basics of weldments so I've made some various tubing tire carriers and stuff for Jeeps and that's been helpful to add in some conduit, I beams or fencing, etc stuff on equipment for work as well.
I am digging that video, very inspiring. I have 10+ years of paid CAD seat time (Autocad and SDRC) but it was a long time ago. I would love to get back into some modeling that can put my ideas on the table next to me in short order. More ways to tinker and spend money, thanks guys!
I need to learn a mech CAD program of some sort. My CAD experience is with designing circuit boards, not mech. When I worked IT, I supported numerous Solidworks users - we had two classes: Parts makers who only needed a modest computer, and guys that would load an entire underwater vehicle up, and then zoom and rotate, which took bleeding edge hardware - think quad turbo V-16 at 10,000 RPM as an engine equiv to the computers I bought for these guys. A little bit of Solidworks rubbed off on me, but not much. I bastardized a remix of one part using TinkerCAD, but can already tell how its kinda neat but limited.
I see Solidworks has a hobbyist version for $48/yr. As much as I hate subscriptions, this is probably worth it. The question now is if it will run on my antiquated hardware/software.
I see Solidworks has a hobbyist version for $48/yr. As much as I hate subscriptions, this is probably worth it. The question now is if it will run on my antiquated hardware/software.
I ran ProE through college and at an internship. Only had one class that required Solidworks.
In my career I used what I believe is now Siemens NX, overkill for just about anything but I designed some cool stuff with it. Haven't run cad for about 10 years for work and when I was doing it I only did the modeling, I had drafters to do all the detailing.
I don't generally design cool stuff, because everything I'm working with is relatively slow but often deals with thousands of tons of force, so everything has to be big and bulky and covered with some sort of lubrication. And since I have to get it right the first time and only time I'll see whatever I'm working for maybe several years to even decades later, KISS is almost the only option.
Me too, I used NX to design the system that makes the big crane in the middle rotate, IIRC it had a 4200 MT capacity.
I'm familiar with the name but never used it myself. I believe it was a very expensive to buy in and for some reason I remember it being run on UNIX, but could be wrong on that.
I dabbled in it early on, at the time I was managing an engineering department and we were looking at the potential of different parametric modeling packages, something that was relatively new at the time. I thought it was a good program, and clearly I wasn't alone as it's popularity exploded pretty quickly. At the time, Autodesk (makers of AutoCAD) had been developing Mechanical Desktop, their original parametric modeler, which I ended up using extensively. This was eventually replaced by Autodesk Inventor, which I have a little experience with. Most of them were a bit challenging to use back then, but the software has come a long way and is much more intuitive now. Funny, I absolutely despise MS Word (but I get where you're coming from).
Don't recall the name but I tried a package like that probably 7-8 years ago and found it almost impossible to use. If the item you were trying to "scan" had smooth contour/feature transitions and was of a uniform color, the program just couldn't figure it out. I'm sure things have come a long way since then and they might be better.
That's kind of how WTF works, I think. Members here are very helpful at encouraging you to spend your money.
Hey, it worked for Kelly Johnson, and he was responsible for designing some pretty cool shit!
Forced obsolescence, this is a problem both in hardware and software....and it's getting worse.
Well, isn't that just a kick in the yam pouch...was holding off on upgrading from my P1S to an X1C with AMS for many months now, hoping for a sale. Finally caved and purchased about 6 weeks ago...Murphy's a son-of-a-bitch...
Why the upgrade from P1S to X1C?
Ive been wanting to upgrade from my MK3S+ to a P1S since I don't care for all the fancy AI bullshit the X1 has.
Just wanna know your thoughts and opinions about the two.
Rat Rig V-Core 4 showed up a couple days ago:
Finished printing all of the other parts myself. Panels are separate, but I have those too. This thing will be the size of a large washing machine once assembled. 500x500x500mm build volume, crazy fast speed, stupid acceleration, and 100% open-source. (Also has a very active Discord community that is a lot like this forum...)
Looking forward to assembling this thing this weekend and printing some stuff...
https://us.ratrig.com/3d-printers/v-core-4-category/v-core-4-printer-kits.html
Finished printing all of the other parts myself. Panels are separate, but I have those too. This thing will be the size of a large washing machine once assembled. 500x500x500mm build volume, crazy fast speed, stupid acceleration, and 100% open-source. (Also has a very active Discord community that is a lot like this forum...)
Looking forward to assembling this thing this weekend and printing some stuff...
https://us.ratrig.com/3d-printers/v-core-4-category/v-core-4-printer-kits.html
That build volume would be amazing. Though generally I am pretty happy on the X1C since I just turn it on and stuff comes out.
Biggest thing for me was to be able to print pure unblended polycarbonate. For that, it means driving the hotend to 315C and the heatbed to 142C, with the chamber heater set to around 80C. Rat Rigs (and modern CoreXYs in general) tend to support that well, and are super easy to upgrade.
I went with a 1,600 watt bed heater and 450 watt chamber PTC air heater. Enclosure will be insulated with 1" polyisocyanurate over top of the 1/4" acrylic/polycarbonate enclosure panels, so it will definitely be able to run those temperatures.
Also am starting with the 48V and hybrid drive, so should be able to hit some stupid acceleration values...
Well, maybe upgrade wasn't the best word to use, kind of is, kind of isn't. The machines are quite obviously based on the same platform, and they share quite a few parts as a result. But there are some notable differences, though these may not be relevant to your specific printing needs/desires.
I've had the P1S for 14 months, I've printed more items than I can remember on it and it's performed pretty much flawlessly for me. Minor issues with some ASA filament, but I'm not convinced it was entirely the printer's fault. Not all filaments are equal and I think the brand I chose might have had something to do with it, though I was able to get it to work by tweaking the machine settings in the slicer a bit. Anyway, in contrast, I've only had the X1C for 1.5 months and only had the time to print maybe half a dozen items total, with PLA, ABS and PETG-HF. I'm assholes and elbows with work right now and haven't had much time to dig into it.
I'll start by saying the P1S is a very capable printer and can be tweaked to print with most of the same materials as the X1C. Bambu Labs parts are pretty reasonably priced, so upgrading the hot end and extruder gears to hardened steel won't break the bank. I had originally planned to simply add an AMS to my P1S, but the more I read about the X1C, the more I was interested in checking it out. In the end I went for the X1C/AMS combo.
- The displays and the enclosures are probably the first differences you'll notice.
- The P1S display is perfectly serviceable, though the larger touchscreen on the X1C is pretty handy, especially when configuring the AMS directly (via the machine, not the app, etc.).
- The P1S enclosure is plastic whereas the X1C is aluminum, and though I doubt this has any major effect on the printing process, it certainly gives the X1C a slightly higher quality feel. There may be a difference in how the two materials react with internal chamber temps, though I suspect if there is a difference, it's minimal.
- The X1C has an improved camera to monitor prints in real time. Allegedly, the X1C's camera has the ability to detect print failures as well. I don't monitor my prints in real time via the camera on either printer, but the X1C's video is higher quality should I need/want to use it for some other reason.
- The "fancy AI bullshit" (
for the record, I'm not particularly enamored with AI in general). I can't say how much the AI factors or how intelligent it actually is as of yet, but I do think the micro Lidar works well both in bed leveling and first layer checking, a feature not available on the P1S. While not critical to getting good prints, it may well help detect/prevent failures. Fortunately this has not been an issue so far during my limited time with the X1C. She's run like a champ so far. - Both printers can accept MicroSD cards, though the X1C has an addtional 4GB of internal storage. Probably not a deal breaker or maker for most people but it's a difference and bears mention.
- For me, one of the biggest draws was the difference in max build plate temperature. Running on 110v, there's a 20 degree Celsius difference in max build plate temps (P1S=100, X1C=120). I have found printing with certain filaments, I needed to bump up the plate temps from the default print profiles to solve some print issues regarding adhesion and warpage on the P1S, but was only able to push it up to about 102 (with an inert error message on the display for the print duration). While this did improve the print issues, it didn't resolve them completely. I think the extra temp headroom on the X1C may well prove useful.
Hopefully the above helps. I don't think I left anything out but there's enough folks here with the X1C, I'm sure they'll fill in the blanks if I did.
Hopefully the above helps. I don't think I left anything out but there's enough folks here with the X1C, I'm sure they'll fill in the blanks if I did.
Thanks for the reply!
I have been researching the two and came across
I personally do not care for the internal camera difference (Its actually the same camera, just the X1C has a better mainboard to handle bandwidth *According to people on their forums*) as I just have a smart home camera always facing my other two printers to monitor both of them. The first layer thing is cool and all, but I am so used to just setting it manually that I have no problem taking 2 minutes every once in a while to relevel. Also people have been complaining about the lidar causing issues and not getting the first layer properly, but that must have been fixed with firmware. My main concern really was the issue with build plates, I have never used the OEM plate on any of my printers. I have seen and heard people talking about the erroneous error popup about using things like the Biqu/BTT cryo plates that can pause prints.
The display is not a problem, I have never used the display on my MK3S+ thanks to PrusaConnect or back when I had it hardwired to my PC, and my Ender's first upgrade was a graphical screen, which eventually was unused thanks to Klipper. Though, If I do get a P1S, id instantly buy the BTT Panda and use that as the sole display anyways.
And finally, I really have no need to go past ASA for any printing means, I currently do PLA and PETG for all my projects. Just really want an enclosed printer to handle ABS finally (And without absolutely screwing off the moment I walk away) and if I plan to do anything outside of those, I have free access to a Stratasys (Curse them btw) F750 and an HP SLS machine at work. Anything past that like PEEK or crazy materials, leave that to PCBWay or JLPCB (Whatever the current superior one is)
I have struggled with the MK3S+ trying to do ABS even with an enclosure thanks to it being a bed slinger and zero chamber temp control. Also with that sale, I can easily justify the $750 for a P1S combo, unlike how I magically justified spending $800 on an MK3S+ when I had a perfectly fine Ender 3, though it was heavily modified to work the way I wanted.
Speaking of other filaments, Have you tried any of the CF or other fancy hybrids? My Prusa is unhappy with using them even though it has an upgraded hotend and hotend. Must be an issue with the Prusa just not liking hybrid/exotic filled materials. Hell even wood filled causes it to just stop thanks to nozzle clogging.
Also I jokingly called it AI Bullshit because its an overused term and really not necessary when its just an algorithm scanning images. "My car has AI, My phone has AI" blah blah, its all algorithms and databases.
What nozzle are you using on your Prusa? I've found that the only thing that even approaches the thermal performance of a brass nozzle and has good abrasion resistance for specialty filaments is a tungsten carbide nozzle. They're stupid expensive but work very well, and will probably be the last nozzle you buy (unless you're an idiot like me).
https://spool3d.ca/tungsten-carbide-reprap-m6-nozzle/
Just don't be like me and overtighten the tungsten carbide nozzle. They are very brittle and mine exploded when I cranked it way too tight with a socket...
I've also found that the copper heatblock helps a lot at higher temperatures and higher speeds.
I generally just print 100% polycarbonate in my MK3S+ now, but when I did print lower temp materials like ABS/ASA, I found that cranking the chamber temperature made a huge difference in those prints as well. 60C seemed to be a pretty good chamber temp target for ABS/ASA/PC blends.
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