What If you break a Dana 30 axle shaft while wheeling?

[DominicWilbrink]

What happens if you break a Dana 30 Axle Shaft when you are out wheeling?

This question is related to some budget strategies/planning I am doing regarding axle/locker upgrades for my stock axles (Dana 30/Dana 35 on a 2001 TJ Sport). I think I know what happens if you break an axle shaft on a Dana 35. Assuming that they typically break at the splines, basically the whole wheel/axle could spin/fall out of the axle housing. And if you still have the stock differential you lose all power at the rear tires. Does the same hold true at the front axle? Does the disc break assembly on the front more or less hold the axle/wheel in place?

The underlying reason that I am asking is that I am contemplating installing a lunchbox locker in the front Dana 30 with stock 27 spline axles. For budget reasons I am saving the big bucks for a Super 35 upgrade in the rear with a selectable locker. I want to avoid the spending the money on upgraded axles in the front because I understand the risks of breaking the splines on the Dana 30 are not as high. But in the event that I did break a front spline could I wheel out with just two wheel drive if I had to (assuming the trail conditions are not gnarly)?

 

[Yendra Built]

The axle always turns with the wheel on a TJ always!! So its going to thump and bang around in there until it possibly binds up. This is one of the many reasons that older 4x4's had lockouts, then the wheel is disconnected from the differential and it's assorted parts and the transfer case disconnected from the pinion.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Factory Dana 30 axle shafts typically break at the ears that hold the u-joint bearing caps, not at the splines. Remove the inner shaft, make sure to keep the outer stub shaft installed to hold the unit bearing hub together, and drive home.

 

[DominicWilbrink]

Thanks for schooling me.

 

[mrblaine]

What happens if you break a Dana 30 Axle Shaft when you are out wheeling?

Depends on the break. The typical break is the yokes holding the caps shear off. If you keep going, the ends of the yokes bypass each other and if they catch, it shoots the knuckle off the upper ball joint by pulling the pin out of the body and shoves the lower out of the hole it sits in at the inner C.

At no point should you attempt to drive out with a broken axle. Stop, pull the inner, leave the outer to hold the wheel bearing together, stuff rags in the tube and go have fun.

Some folks with alloy inners have broken at the splines, driven out on their ARB and then had to buy a new locker when the end of the shaft tore up the locker journal and ruined it. Don't drive on a broken axle.

 

[Mr. Bills]

I'm glad I converted my LJ to manual hubs. The typical break at the u-joint or axle "ears" usually only requires disengaging the hubs in order to be able to drive home and do the repair in relative comfort - no inner axle pulling required on the trail. That may not be the case for every conceivable break, but enough of them to make the purchase worthwhile to me. However, I am older and have no issue spending my children's inheritance on my jeep. Most don't have that luxury.

 

[astjp2]

Well if it breaks, it give you an excuse to put on Tons!

 

[Mr. Bills]

Well if it breaks, it give you an excuse to put on Tons!

Nah, I'll spend my children's inheritance on a new drift boat before I go to tons.

 

[tworley]

We had a guy in our group who ran one of the harder trails CO has to offer, the next weekend on a milder run his ears finally gave on the first obstacle. He finished the trail in 3wd.

But we had to help him get over that obstacle as the front end was wanting to walk on him.

 

[Wildman]

Shattered the u-joint

 

[Stevemack]

Find a set of spare shafts. They’re cheap. Check with your local 4x4/fab shop or Craig’s list or FB Jeep pages. If it breaks at the typical place, ears, remove it and install spare in 12-15 mins. Continue wheeling..If it breaks inside, do as stated above.

edit if you ever come out to LI, I’ll give you a set. Have a bunch laying around here and at the club shop....

 

[JMT]

Factory Dana 30 axle shafts typically break at the ears that hold the u-joint bearing caps, not at the splines. Remove the inner shaft, make sure to keep the outer stub shaft installed to hold the unit bearing hub together, and drive home.

Jerry, I broke my u-joint on my passenger side Dana 30. I've been talking to another guy I know from back in TX and who is on this forum. I want to make sure I understand one of the things he's saying. I can remove the tire, the brake calipers, the rotor, pull the inner and outer shaft, remove the inner shaft, re-install the outer shaft and hub, rotor, brake calipers, tire and drive home? I don't have to remove the 36mm bolt, right?

I went ahead and bought a Spicer 5-760X

 

[freedom_in_4low]

That's correct, no messing with the 36mm nut until you need to get the outer shaft out. Just pull the unit bearing (via the 3 12pt bolts in the back of the knuckle) and outer shaft and reinstall as a unit.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That's correct, no messing with the 36mm nut until you need to get the outer shaft out. Just pull the unit bearing (via the 3 12pt bolts in the back of the knuckle) and outer shaft and reinstall as a unit.

X2, the goal is to remove the inner axle shaft and leave the outer stub shaft in place to hold the unit-bearing hub together.

 

[JMT]

That's correct, no messing with the 36mm nut until you need to get the outer shaft out. Just pull the unit bearing (via the 3 12pt bolts in the back of the knuckle) and outer shaft and reinstall as a unit.

X2, the goal is to remove the inner axle shaft and leave the outer stub shaft in place to hold the unit-bearing hub together.

All good to go. Removed it with no issue, outer ears are sheared off, u joint blown to smithereens, inner ears are damaged, but the rig is home. Thank you for confirmation and help