What lift kit?

Currie is now RockJock. Google would probably get you to it but thought would be easier if pointed you in right direction.

As said, Currie or Savvy are gold standard but not cheap. This will give you an idea. https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9801H

But that is only the starting point as will need shocks, SYE, and rear driveshaft. Possibly more.


Personally I would piece together a 2.5“ package with MML and BL for 33s but here is an idea of kit price. https://dpgoffroad.com/product/old-man-emu-ultimate-tj-lj-wrangler-kit/

You should be able to avoid SYE and rear driveshaft if you stay at 2.5”. May want them down road but reduces initial cost.

Here is an idea of piecing together the same ‘kit’.

OME 2934 front springs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9JT40/?tag=wranglerorg-20
OME 2949 rear springs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9M1FO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Rancho RS5000X shocks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01963N4ZY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Savvy 1.25” BL https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-bltj/
BrownDog 1” MML https://browndogindustries.com/browndogindustries.com/Wrangler-TJ-40L-3.aspx
Currie front trac bar https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS
Currie rear trac bar bracket https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9121N
JKS rear sway bar link https://jksmfg.com/i-8938523-wrangl...le-sway-bar-end-link.html?ref=category:329567

That will put you around $1,300. I didn’t price shop any of the pieces so might be able to reduce that. Will still need bump stops and ideally sway bar disconnect for the front. That ranges from cheap options to the Currie Antirock https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9900.

If you already have 3.73 you can live with that for a while before you regear. I ran 3.73/33s on my first TJ for couple years and am still managing with 3.73 and 35s on LJ while I collect parts/$ for regear. That would also give you time to wheel and decide if you are going to want lockers. Cheaper to do lockers and gears at same time if you can.

Installing the lift yourself isn’t horrible. Plus will give you chance to cycle suspension, see how it works, etc. If you are doing work that have body off then would be perfect time to do it.

Could probably go cheaper than say the JKS adjustable rear link but if you move to a 4” spring in future don’t have to replace. With BL and MML you are set up to do tummy tuck in future (I think where SYE and driveshaft would be needed). Really just trying to say makes sense to go with quality parts that can support future changes because once Jeep bug bites you may be ‘building’ it for life.

*Disclaimer - I’m by no means an expert. Am currently out of funds for more parts on my build list so is fun to spend your money 😉
 
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Igor Khmyz said:
Agreed. I would also like to take my time and make everything as perfect as possible, but I don't always have the time. I think this Jeep should turn out much better in performance and looks than the landcruiser. I loved my Landcruiser and it was a monster. It had a 6 inch lift with 37s or 38s, don't quite remember. I did not do the lift completely and properly and when I took it out on the street it had the death wobble when you went over 45 mph. I used it only for offroading and had a lot of fun. I think its too long for offroading, but is better for overlanding/expeditions. Another question, would an aftermarket bumper with a hitch reciever be okay for towing? I think it should be fine since it is attached.to the frame, just as long its nothing too heavy.
Click to expand...
Keep in mind TJs aren't towing beasts, rated 2000 lbs and even then need to be set up right.
 
sourbluff said:
Currie is now RockJock. Google would probably get you to it but thought would be easier if pointed you in right direction.

As said, Currie or Savvy are gold standard but not cheap. This will give you an idea. https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9801H

But that is only the starting point as will need shocks, SYE, and rear driveshaft. Possibly more.


Personally I would piece together a 2.5“ package with MML (Motor Mount Lift) and BL for 33s but here is an idea of kit price. https://dpgoffroad.com/product/old-man-emu-ultimate-tj-lj-wrangler-kit/

You should be able to avoid SYE and rear driveshaft if you stay at 2.5”. May want them down road but reduces initial cost.

Here is an idea of piecing together the same ‘kit’.

OME 2934 front springs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9JT40/?tag=wranglerorg-20
OME 2949 rear springs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9M1FO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Rancho RS5000X shocks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01963N4ZY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Savvy 1.25” BL https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-bltj/
BrownDog 1” MML (Motor Mount Lift) https://browndogindustries.com/browndogindustries.com/Wrangler-TJ-40L-3.aspx
Currie front trac bar https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS
Currie rear trac bar bracket https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9121N
JKS rear sway bar link https://jksmfg.com/i-8938523-wrangl...le-sway-bar-end-link.html?ref=category:329567

That will put you around $1,300. I didn’t price shop any of the pieces so might be able to reduce that. Will still need bump stops and ideally sway bar disconnect for the front. That ranges from cheap options to the Currie Antirock https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9900.

If you already have 3.73 you can live with that for a while before you regear. I ran 3.73/33s on my first TJ for couple years and am still managing with 3.73 and 35s on LJ while I collect parts/$ for regear. That would also give you time to wheel and decide if you are going to want lockers. Cheaper to do lockers and gears at same time if you can.

Installing the lift yourself isn’t horrible. Plus will give you chance to cycle suspension, see how it works, etc. If you are doing work that have body off then would be perfect time to do it.

Could probably go cheaper than say the JKS adjustable rear link but if you move to a 4” spring in future don’t have to replace. With BL and MML (Motor Mount Lift) you are set up to do tummy tuck in future (I think where SYE and driveshaft would be needed). Really just trying to say makes sense to go with quality parts that can support future changes because once Jeep bug bites you may be ‘building’ it for life.

*Disclaimer - I’m by no means an expert. Am currently out of funds for more parts on my build list so is fun to spend your money 😉
Click to expand...
Very nice of you to put all that together for the OP. Accurate info.
 
I just ordered the 2 inch Pro Comp lift suspension kit and a 1 inch Pro Comp Body Lift. Should be easy to install since I am swapping the frame. With this set up, would 33s work or would 32s be better?
 
Igor Khmyz said:
I just ordered the 2 inch Pro Comp lift suspension kit and a 1 inch Pro Comp Body Lift. Should be easy to install since I am swapping the frame. With this set up, would 33s work or would 32s be better?
Click to expand...
There is a thread in the resources pages on lift and tire size. I prb wouldn't go more than 31" on that set up if you are going to wheel hard. You can stuff 33's, but it won't be ideal...find that thread, there's a ton of info. You need to cycle your suspension if you're after performance.
Might as well go 1.25" on the BL since you're doing it already.
 
Igor Khmyz said:
I just ordered the 2 inch Pro Comp lift suspension kit and a 1 inch Pro Comp Body Lift. Should be easy to install since I am swapping the frame. With this set up, would 33s work or would 32s be better?
Click to expand...
What drove your decision to go with ProComp?
 
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