What lift size and wheel size would I need?
- Thread starter Nick paulsen
- Start date
Typically for that tire size, you have 2 choices.
1. A 3" lift with a 1" body lift.
2. A 4" lift.
For those tires, you want a 15x8 wheel.
This thread has good info:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-beginners-guide-to-lifting-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.733/
1. A 3" lift with a 1" body lift.
2. A 4" lift.
For those tires, you want a 15x8 wheel.
This thread has good info:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-beginners-guide-to-lifting-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.733/
Great advice! You could go either of those routes, but the one constant is a 15x8 wheel.
Check that thread out as well.
What are you trying to do? Mainly offroad? Onroad? There are a lot of variables behind that question...Lots of wheel sizes, lift sizes, etc to work with a 33 x 12.5 tire.
Ok update I’m getting http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-907s.html which is an 4in lift and 33x12.5 mikey Thompson tire and Pro comp wheel but I was wondering is therrr anything I need that doesn’t come with lift like steering stablizers or track bars
A RC lift is well known to be a terribly harsh ride. Looking at that lift I see a few things:
Control arms have rubber bushings. A rubber bushing in that style of arm have very little flex and have been known to tear off brackets. The stock arm is built to twist and flex so the rubber works in those. They are also not adjustable so when you get a sye, which 4" of lift needs, there is no way to change the pinion angle, which you must do.
No track bar, which will be needed with 4". There is a rear bracket which will work but isn't ideal.
Those shocks are notoriously rough riding. Shocks are what dictate how it rides and those aren't good.
The steering damper can be purchased anywhere. Don't get sucked into dropping 100 bucks on one. They are all a simple 50:50 valved shock. An inexpensive Monroe from Amazon for 40 bucks will work fine. Also do not get sucked into running a double, they are unnecessary and put added strain on the power steering system.
Honestly, I would buy the Zone 4.25" system if on a budget. A bunch of folks run it and are happy with it. It is a 3" suspension with 1.25" body. That way avoids the difficulty in properly setting up 4" of suspension on a TJ. Add in a JKS trackbar for the front and you are set.
Control arms have rubber bushings. A rubber bushing in that style of arm have very little flex and have been known to tear off brackets. The stock arm is built to twist and flex so the rubber works in those. They are also not adjustable so when you get a sye, which 4" of lift needs, there is no way to change the pinion angle, which you must do.
No track bar, which will be needed with 4". There is a rear bracket which will work but isn't ideal.
Those shocks are notoriously rough riding. Shocks are what dictate how it rides and those aren't good.
The steering damper can be purchased anywhere. Don't get sucked into dropping 100 bucks on one. They are all a simple 50:50 valved shock. An inexpensive Monroe from Amazon for 40 bucks will work fine. Also do not get sucked into running a double, they are unnecessary and put added strain on the power steering system.
Honestly, I would buy the Zone 4.25" system if on a budget. A bunch of folks run it and are happy with it. It is a 3" suspension with 1.25" body. That way avoids the difficulty in properly setting up 4" of suspension on a TJ. Add in a JKS trackbar for the front and you are set.
X3^^^
If you go to a 4" lift, there's a lot more to do than just get bigger tires. That's why it's best to just drive your TJ right now, suppress the bug to buy mods, and really learn what's going on. There's a reason RC is cheaper than something like Rubicon Express and a reason that's cheaper than Old Man Emu.
Also, if you go with a 3" suspension lift and a 1" body lift it opens up other possibilities down the line that a 4" suspension lift doesn't have., such as a Tummy Tuck. So there are things to figure out before dropping $$.
And what's your gearing? If you have 3.07 that'll suck with 33's. You can live awhile with 3.73, but that's something else to think about.
It's better to do it once right than to have to do it twice.
If you go to a 4" lift, there's a lot more to do than just get bigger tires. That's why it's best to just drive your TJ right now, suppress the bug to buy mods, and really learn what's going on. There's a reason RC is cheaper than something like Rubicon Express and a reason that's cheaper than Old Man Emu.
Also, if you go with a 3" suspension lift and a 1" body lift it opens up other possibilities down the line that a 4" suspension lift doesn't have., such as a Tummy Tuck. So there are things to figure out before dropping $$.
And what's your gearing? If you have 3.07 that'll suck with 33's. You can live awhile with 3.73, but that's something else to think about.
It's better to do it once right than to have to do it twice.
If you're set on the RC lift, you do NOT want to drill the front track bar axle bracket as shown in the video on that link. That just weakens the bracket and you're asking for trouble if you do that. If you're going up 4", do yourself a favor and spring for quality adjustable track bars.
I wouldn't waste my money on that lift, it's garbage in all honesty.
You'd be better off buying an OME 2.5" lift and throwing on a 1.25" body lift. That would be a much, much, much better ride, and not require the amount of stuff that 4" suspension lift is going to require.
Take it from someone (me) who has owned a Rough Country lift before... There is a reason those things are so cheap: they ride like shit!
Sorry to be so harsh, I just hate to see someone waste their money, that's all.
Starrs
TJ Guru
Ditto.
Also, the RC lift kit provides you with shiny new transfer case drop spacers. Most TJ owners end up doing everything necessary to get rid of the TC spacers that usually come installed on a TJ by a previous owner.
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Tj04
TJ Enthusiast
Most 33s are more like 32.5-32.8, you'd be fine also with 2.5 lift and 1.25 body lift.
15x7 works fine for 33x10.5
15x8 will work for 33x12.5
And my personal favorite that I will never do
:
16x8 with 33x11.5s.
I will say I have no complaints with a rough country 1.25 body lift. They are puck spacers. Couldn't get any simpler and I doubt that could be made to ride more comfortably haha.
(Then again I'm still on my damn 30s with 3.5 lift while I wait for 33s and ome springs.)
15x7 works fine for 33x10.5
15x8 will work for 33x12.5
And my personal favorite that I will never do
:16x8 with 33x11.5s.
I will say I have no complaints with a rough country 1.25 body lift. They are puck spacers. Couldn't get any simpler and I doubt that could be made to ride more comfortably haha.
(Then again I'm still on my damn 30s with 3.5 lift while I wait for 33s and ome springs.)
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I am running 31x10.5's on 15x10 wheels. I don't rock crawl, but I do go off-road and putter around. In the old days, I had a YJ and ran 33x12.5s on 15x10 inch wheels and wheeled the piss out of it.; it even had a Chevy Vortech engine, and never had any issues. I say that only because I like the old school deep dish look of the 10 inch wheel. I know that isn't as popular here, but I like it. I am not sure what kind of issues you guys are seeing with this set up, but I have been running that way for years.
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