I read that as there being a relocation bracket. Not just a redrilled bracket.
The frame mount hole gets re-drilled 3/4" further inward, or use an adjustable track bar with the original hole.
I read that as there being a relocation bracket. Not just a redrilled bracket.
Better than a bracket up front.The frame mount hole gets re-drilled 3/4" further inward, or use an adjustable track bar with the original hole.
Better than a bracket up front.
For the 2” lift it was:
* OME Springs 2942/2933
* JKS adjustable track bars front and rear
* Rancho shocks (I got the ones for the 2” lift and they were too long, so I won’t list the numbers)
* Savvy belly up skid
* Tom wood’s rear driveshaft
* Savvy double adjustable arms (at 2.5 you could get away with just the rear uppers and lowers)
* Savvy 1.25” body lift
* Savvy shifter cable
* MORE 1” motor mount lift
* Bump stop extensions (rear)
Not all of that is required, but I’d say it is all worth it. You could substitute some preferences in there too (e.g. different skid, different driveshaft maker, different rigid body lift - just don’t do the JKS poly, different motor mount lift)
Other than the springs and shocks, most of that is still on there at 4” with adjustment
For the 2” lift it was:
* OME Springs 2942/2933
* JKS adjustable track bars front and rear
* Rancho shocks (I got the ones for the 2” lift and they were too long, so I won’t list the numbers)
* Savvy belly up skid
* Tom wood’s rear driveshaft
* Savvy double adjustable arms (at 2.5 you could get away with just the rear uppers and lowers)
* Savvy 1.25” body lift
* Savvy shifter cable
* MORE 1” motor mount lift
* Bump stop extensions (rear)
Not all of that is required, but I’d say it is all worth it. You could substitute some preferences in there too (e.g. different skid, different driveshaft maker, different rigid body lift - just don’t do the JKS poly, different motor mount lift)
Other than the springs and shocks, most of that is still on there at 4” with adjustment
Awesome, thanks for all of this!For the 2” lift it was:
* OME Springs 2942/2933
* JKS adjustable track bars front and rear
* Rancho shocks (I got the ones for the 2” lift and they were too long, so I won’t list the numbers)
* Savvy belly up skid
* Tom wood’s rear driveshaft
* Savvy double adjustable arms (at 2.5 you could get away with just the rear uppers and lowers)
* Savvy 1.25” body lift
* Savvy shifter cable
* MORE 1” motor mount lift
* Bump stop extensions (rear)
Not all of that is required, but I’d say it is all worth it. You could substitute some preferences in there too (e.g. different skid, different driveshaft maker, different rigid body lift - just don’t do the JKS poly, different motor mount lift)
Other than the springs and shocks, most of that is still on there at 4” with adjustments.
Looking at these angles, how bad is the bump steer?
Zero bump steer.Looking at these angles, how bad is the bump steer?
Are those wheels 15” or 16” and what is the backspacing? I love this lookWhat I mean by 'comfortably' is that for instance, you can fit 33" tires on 2.5" of lift. Here is my TJ with a 2.5" OME lift on 33" tires (this is before I went to the 4" lift):
View attachment 3580 View attachment 3581
Notice how much less fender clearance / gap I have in these photos versus the ones I posted before with the 4" lift?
Well, that extra 1.5" from the 4" lift made a huge difference.
So, you can put 33" tires on 2.5", but the problem you'll have is that if you like to do a lot of serious off-roading you're going to reduce the amount of flex and wheel travel you have due to the lower lift height.
You'll most likely have to increase the amount of bump stop with 2.5" of lift to keep the tires from hitting the fender, since they're a lot closer.
So yeah, 2.5" of lift and 33" tires will work just fine. However, if you want to take it off-road and get a decent amount of flex out of it, I'd stick to 3.5" to 4" of lift personally.
I'm speaking from experience as well, since I've had both 2.5" on 33" tires and then moved up to 4" on 33" tires.
Pretty sure 16" stock rubicon moab wheels. @Chris can confirmAre those wheels 15” or 16” and what is the backspacing? I love this look
Those are factory 16” Moab wheels with the factory 5.2” backspacing.Are those wheels 15” or 16” and what is the backspacing? I love this look
I never heard of a 34 inch tire.
I run 33s with 2 1/2 inch lift. A 4 inch lift will accommodate 35s no problem. I never heard of a 34 inch tire.